Since you are handy with a Drill and Tap you might consider a Low Oil Pressure Alarm as I have on my car. Only cost around $10-$20 depending on what parts you use.
Low oil pressure alarm for 617.952

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

run it. that JBweld is pretty tuff stuff. I have abused it plenty. besides- them same German engineers what designed the car also designed the repair fitting.

but the low pressure alarm is nice regardless.

if your really gonna weld it and so on, you could have AN fittings put on, then you can use stuff that can be had in any speed shop in the US. to fab up your own lines, etc.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Do you reckon those highly intellligent German engineers put five threads on that fitting for nothing?

The fitting in question was intended for use in a cast aluminum oil filter housing. Using it to repair broken oil coolers was most likely an application not forseen at the outset. (That said, it should work great on an intact cooler.)

I believe that the repair nipple was made to be used with the Hex part still attatched to the Oil Cooler. Only the threaded portion was supposed to be cut off. With the Hex part still on there is plenty of bite for the threads.
I did not realize until I saw the photos that the Hex was ripped off of the cooler. I have used JB weld for many things and I am sure it will help down there but I hope ounce he gets his engine fixed and he knows it runs well he will look for a good used cooler or at least one that has more meat on it and can take the repair better.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Anybody know if the fittings are aluminum? I would tend to doubt it, thereby eliminating the welding option.

From what I have read in this Forum the repair fittings are Steel; the same fittings that come out of the Oil Filter Housing.

Home Depot sells Silver Bearing Solder that melts at 420 degrees F (a Propane Torch is hot enough). That is well above the temp of the Oil going through the cooler.
With higher brazing heats I would be worried about unsoldering something else on the cooler.
I tried re-soldering the seam on a Radiator and the heat weakend a long section of the seam further down.
I was driving on the Freeway when the whole seam on that side split resulting in a ruined Engine by the time I got off the Freeway (spun some bearings on a 1 year old Engine I had rebuilt).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yep......you're not going to weld the steel fittings to the aluminum tank.

I suppose you could braze it if you found the right material.........will that silver bearing solder work with aluminum?

The heat is definitely a concern since the tanks are probably soldered to the fins.

I drain my oil cooler with every oil drain on the SD - always surprised at how much extra oil collects from draining overnight. I loosed the lower hose mount at the oil cooler and drain. My TD wagon has a lower hose that I cannot yet loosen and have tried tapping and heat to loosen to no avail and I am afraid to exert more pressure on those aluminum threads. One day I am going to buy an oil cooler and have a drain tap soldered in so that I do not have to disturb the hose connection - I like to drain ALL the dirty oil on my oil changes -

To be honest I have never read the complete instructions so am not sure if the one Home Depot sells it will stick to Aluminum.

There is a silver bearing solder that restraunts use to repair their stainless steel counters and such that is made by TIX. It is one of the Silver Sloders used by Custom Knive makers and it will stick to Aluminum also.

I used some of the TIX solder to repair a hole im my stainless steel Sink over 12 years ago and it is still working. I think it melts around 480 degrees F.
Added: Sta-brite is another silver bearing solder used by restraunts to repair things and Custom Knife makers to attach guards and such.
Added again:
http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/consumables/alloys.asp?id=32
Stay-Brite (silver solder melting temp 430 degrees F)
Silver-bearing solders often used throughout the refrigeration/air conditioning industry instead of brazing alloys. Both Stay-Brite and Stay-Brite 8 produce an overall component with greater strength than a brazed component whose base metals are weakened by annealment from high brazing heat. Stay-Brite solders bond with all of the ferrous and nonferrous alloys. Joints soldered with Stay- Brite solders exhibit considerably higher than necessary elongation for sound, dissimilar metal joints and vibration applications. Stay-Brite 8 is especially effective in filling loosely fitted couplings.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

ditto. new cooler lines have been in hand all week

jdr01 - nice job getting it fixed without spending more $ until you know the engine is OK

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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST

1983 300SD - 305000
1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000
1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000

https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif

I agree with the others who are concerned about the integrity of that repair on the end which broke off. The oil is at high pressure and those fittings see a lot of motor vibration - I'd bet that fix will leak once you start it up but even if it does not I would suspect it would fail long before any other part of the system. I'd replace that cooler with one that hasn't had a broken fitting, pronto.

The OP mentioned he disconnected the lines in order to pull the engine...why not disconnect them at the OF housing instead? Those fittings are steel and not known to fail like the ones at the cooler. I know it is water over the dam at this point but I just wondered about it...

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

I will make a guess. If you detatch the Oil Cooler Hoses at the Oil Cooler you can leave the bracket down there by the Motor Mounts alone and pull the Engine out by removing the big bolts that hold the Engine Mounts on and the Oil Cooler Hoses will not be in the way when you pull the engine.

If you remove the Hoses at the Oil Filter Housing you will need to remove the Bracket also and you will have to bend the Hoses out of the way to pull the Engine or I guess you could remove the Oil Cooler with hoses connected as an assemblie to avoid bending them.

The main thing is that like me I did not know there was a trap waiting for me to spring. I also did not realize I was cutting some threads off until the Hose Nut was slide back enough to see. It did not feel like it was turning off hard.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I broke one off yesterday on a junker that I am parting out. I did not realise that the tank was aluminum, I knew that the fitting was though and it is rolled in place to seal it. Silver bearing solder will not work on aluminum is for steel or brass. There is a brazing rod for aluminum and I think that Harbor Freight sells it as well as Tractor supply and others but I have not used it yet (I have some). The pictures in an earlier post show the repair fittings and they look to be made of steel with a alodine finish.

What would be the best way to remove the steel nut from the fitting??? I have a lathe and will probably turn it off. Has anyone tried to TIG one of these back together?? I am wondering what is used to assemble it in the first place. If it is an aluminum brazing type filler then the TIG will get it too hot but still might be possible.

What causes this in the first place --- not using anti seize compound??? Is there anything that can be done to avoid breaking them?? I need to replace the cooler lines on two cars and I am not wanting to do it.

Later
Robert

Sorry -- I did not realise how old this thread is

My success combines heat and patience.

I heat the nut quite hot and begin to move it...........ever so slightly.........and then I move it backward (tightening). This process is repeated about 1000X including the use of Kroil..........to attempt to loosen the nut without damage to the threads.

Gradually, as the nut gives a bit..........I slowly work it more counterclockwise as I do clockwise.

I use more heat every five minutes or so.

The process takes about one hour..........but, results in no damage.

I make one careful cut across the nut with a hacksaw (not too deep to compromise the port), insert a large screwdriver and give 'er a twist. Then soak the cut with penetrating oil and work it as Brian C does. I have not tried heat, but that would also help to loosen the grip of galvanic corrosion between the alloy port fitting and the steel nut.

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)