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  #46  
Old 09-28-2008, 01:50 AM
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the tool for the PC is not a bike pedal. It is a crank removal tool. The threads of this toola happen to be the right pitch for the PC. It s not a practical implementation of this tool. It requires either some welding, or some other means of impact resistant construction which out-performsa the threads on the tool. Get the right tool to remove the PC. Don't mess around!!


In my useless opinion.. it would be more reasonable to remove the head after having the pump inspected. your knock does not sound mechanical.. it is not the crank

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  #47  
Old 09-28-2008, 02:20 AM
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How long have you run it on the fresh fuel, enough to clear out the fuel filters and fuel system of the bad batch?
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  #48  
Old 09-28-2008, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
the tool for the PC is not a bike pedal. It is a crank removal tool. The threads of this toola happen to be the right pitch for the PC. It s not a practical implementation of this tool. It requires either some welding, or some other means of impact resistant construction which out-performsa the threads on the tool. Get the right tool to remove the PC. Don't mess around!!


In my useless opinion.. it would be more reasonable to remove the head after having the pump inspected. your knock does not sound mechanical.. it is not the crank
I wasn't able to access your video-clip, but often audio recordings will distort or mute mechanical noises.

Does it sound like it's knocking on all cylinders, or just the (#2) one?
If it's just the one, it might be easiest at this point (Certainly easier than pulling the head) to drop the lower oil-pan and check #2 bearing.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #49  
Old 09-28-2008, 11:29 AM
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I have dismantled a 616 that recently began to 'knock' (a general and often misused term). It was the #2 throw on the crank. Significant amounts of metal will be present in the oil pump strainer and the bottom of the lower pan when there is a 'rod-knock'. The OP has dropped the loer pan already and found some metal, not enough to cause knock in the bottom end unless he has a comprimised rod cap.


even with rod knock, engines do not run that bad.
even with one non-firing cylinder, these engines do not run that bad

...perhaps pulling the head is jumping the gun.
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  #50  
Old 09-29-2008, 01:39 AM
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OK, here is a better audio file (sorry it has to be downloaded to listen to it). It is audio only because I was cracking injector lines one at a time while recording it and the file would have been too large if it were video AND sound https://publish.comcast.net/modal_windows/file_details/YEfAvULGv8aH81Lu8fdTE5fX1pjiJTsXWme9rk_qdzdfFHrWeoS87RhNfnO-TWXsAQij4HmOXwo01NDwWVGCO4fF_mploSm_yHBT0BtJEag,IMG_0306.WAV,audio,362556,1222666046,Wave%20sound,Ye s,all/

Here is a better video clip with clearer audio (Warning: 20 Mb file)



Still sound "too soft" to be mechanical?
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Last edited by rcounts; 09-29-2008 at 01:44 AM.
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  #51  
Old 09-29-2008, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
I have dismantled a 616 that recently began to 'knock' (a general and often misused term). It was the #2 throw on the crank. Significant amounts of metal will be present in the oil pump strainer and the bottom of the lower pan when there is a 'rod-knock'. The OP has dropped the loer pan already and found some metal, not enough to cause knock in the bottom end unless he has a comprimised rod cap.


even with rod knock, engines do not run that bad.
even with one non-firing cylinder, these engines do not run that bad

...perhaps pulling the head is jumping the gun.
Actually I haven't dropped the pan yet - just drained it and strained the oil - and all I found were a few small metal flakes. Dropping the pan is one of the next things I'll be doing...
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #52  
Old 09-29-2008, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
How long have you run it on the fresh fuel, enough to clear out the fuel filters and fuel system of the bad batch?

Oh yeah, plenty long enough. I emptied the fuel filter and refilled it with fresh fuel, then disconnected the suction hose for the pump and put it into a container of fresh diesel. Pumped over a gallon and a half through it like that while idling...

Then I hooked up a pump to the line from the tank and pumped everything I could out of the tank (6+ gallons) - until the pickup wouldn't suck any more fuel from the tank. Then I added 7-8 gallons of fresh fuel to the tank and reconnected the tank line to the suction side of the fuel pump. Idled it some more like that today to make sure it was pulling fresh fuel from the tank. You can hear what it sounds like above.
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #53  
Old 09-29-2008, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
So, I started cracking injector lines. #1,#3,#4,& #5 all made it run worse, but didn't make the hammering any better or worse. #2 was the only one that didn't seem to make it run much worse, but seemed to make the hammering sound decrease a lot.......
From the sound bite and what you stated earlier that the sound disappears when you take the load away from the cylinder, I think you have either a bent rod, bad piston pin or a cracked ring. I don't think the bearings are an issue. I think the bad fuel caused a violent situation in the combustion chamber that bent the rod or caused piston problems. It is time to open it up or have a piston shoot through the block.
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  #54  
Old 09-29-2008, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
OK, here is a better audio file (sorry it has to be downloaded to listen to it). It is audio only because I was cracking injector lines one at a time while recording it and the file would have been too large if it were video AND sound https://publish.comcast.net/modal_windows/file_details/YEfAvULGv8aH81Lu8fdTE5fX1pjiJTsXWme9rk_qdzdfFHrWeoS87RhNfnO-TWXsAQij4HmOXwo01NDwWVGCO4fF_mploSm_yHBT0BtJEag,IMG_0306.WAV,audio,362556,1222666046,Wave%20sound,Ye s,all/

Here is a better video clip with clearer audio (Warning: 20 Mb file)



Still sound "too soft" to be mechanical?
I was not able to listen to the better audio file.........link didn't take me to the clip..........

The better video clip with clearer audio certainly leaves the door open for a mechanical issue. The sound is harder now.........not the typical soft sound of an injector knock.

I'm sure you're going to have to dig into it...........
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  #55  
Old 09-29-2008, 10:44 AM
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the new sound bit says alot more. Sounds pretty serious. A stethoscope or even a hose will tell you even more.

sounds like that engine is coming out.

I thought I read you dropped the lower pan. MY apologies to Mark - i agree ,drop the pan and inspect whatever is accessible
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  #56  
Old 09-29-2008, 12:11 PM
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Yeah, dropping the pan is next - though I'm pretty sure I know what I'm going to find

Anybody got a low-mileage 917 for sale in the NW?
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #57  
Old 09-29-2008, 02:27 PM
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contact Aurora auto parts. You are prob gunna want a shortblock.

I know another person in Portland who might sell a shortblock also.

pm me when the time comes
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  #58  
Old 09-29-2008, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
contact Aurora auto parts. You are prob gunna want a shortblock.

I know another person in Portland who might sell a shortblock also.

pm me when the time comes
Any clue on cost? Might I be better off to find a whole, low-mileage engine? With a short block there are gonna' be a lot of other gaskets and parts, and with these things parts costs are outrageous....
__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

Last edited by rcounts; 09-29-2008 at 09:01 PM.
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  #59  
Old 09-29-2008, 03:27 PM
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Down here you can get a junkyard engine for $175 at the U-pull it
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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  #60  
Old 09-29-2008, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
Down here you can get a junkyard engine for $175 at the U-pull it
DUDE! Can you find me one?! Any low-mileage units around? That sounds GREAT!

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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