SL300D ? yes..
So my latest project is to transplant the OM603 from a 1987 W124 300DT wagon into a 1984 W107/R107 380SL body
and creating a SL300D turbodiesel or a 300SLD.. so I have a myriad of questions, and I am fishing for some answers.. I have just begun this phase of the project so while some research has been done, by no means is that complete. I thought I would boost my research with posts to this and other forums and tap into the vast knowledge base that is out there.. anyway the project photo gallery/journal is located here for those interested : http://www.coastalboatsales.com/jfraley/gallery/SL300D so below is what I am facing so far.. what am I missing ? what else have I not thought of ? thoughts ? suggestions ? must have electrical systems: (minimum needed to run) starter circuit starter motor to bat + and solenoid connections to starter switch glow plug relay connections from relay to glow plugs (six pole plug ) connection to battery and ground signal wire to glow lamp indicator on dash what else is involved with this circuit to enable its operation ? temp control for glow length operation? several other wires.. have not traced them engine monitoring systems: water temperature gauge connections should be plug and play.. hopefully oil pressure gauge connections also plug and play.. hopefully engine driveability/emmisions/feedback loops etc.: EGR (exhaust gas recirc) I plan to disable this completely PCV ( crankcase vent) I plan to disable this completely by dumping the vent into a air/oil separator and vent the oil-free air out of the engine compartment via hose Air Flow Meter from what I understand this just is simply the input side of the EGR feedback loop I plan to not use this at all electrical connections on back of IP two wires.. what do they control ? vacuum systems: wastgate/boost fuel control operated by vacuum circuit, manifold pressure port on intake how does this loop work, what are other inputs ? electrical pressure port on manifold going thru a series of electro-vac solenoids and the "big-blue" vacuum regulator.. again not sure how all this works, but I have not yet studied the vac diagrams yet.. can I just use a wastegate control with a variable boost setting ( like a delta )? but how do I control the added fuel needed for the added air (from boost ) I also plan to add an EGT gauge to monitor this vac connections to ALDA on IP one connection splits into two and feeds into fuel control system ? study of vac diagrams may help other vac connections on IP I imagine on is the fuel cut-off connected to ignition switch I will have to install an electro-vac solenoid possibly tapping off the ignition coil power wire to control IP fuel-cutoff study of vac diagrams may help vac solenoids next to air filter box / AFM not sure what they do study of vac diagrams may help Transmission: has electrical connection (four pole plug i think ) what does this do ? just the reverse light and possibly neutral safety switch FYI I am using the 124 transmission ( not sure of the model ) control boxes behind battery several units .. I seem to remember one controlling idle on my other W124 are they even related to engine operation ? I think one is related to the climate control.. other items to boost performance once I get it running reliably Send out injection pump to myna diesel in finland to be upgraded or figure out what they do to get more fuel ( bigger injectors etc ) Upgrade turbo+up the boost, holset hx35 is supposed to plug and play with stock exhaust manifold on the 603. Add an intercooler |
That engine has electronically controlled idle (EDS). The MAF behind the right headlight is only needed for EGR and ARV (vacuum amps behind the right headlights). You can get away with turning up base idle and leaving it at that.
The key switch isn't as simple as you make it sound :) I would look into fitting the Diesel key switch with vacuum section into the 107 or look into a key switch and VSV from a 140 Diesel. There is a vacuum reservoir tucked in one of the front fenders. Also a coolant overflow collection bottle in the right front fender. The wagon power steering pump has an integral SLS pump. You might try the pump off a US 300D (sedan) of the same year for a bolt-on solution. Or maybe the 107 pump will work with the 603 brackets. IMO the messiest wiring is going to be the OVP relay and how it ties into the flywheel rpm sensor needed for EDS, tach and cruise control. If you have the resources to get a Myna IP, forget the 603 and go with a 606! Sixto 87 300D |
Quote:
something like this might work: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1TMT1 I have a similar setup controlling the fuel shut-off in my boat which is powered by 2x OM 617's that project here: http://www.coastalboatsales.com/jfraley/gallery/scubaboo Quote:
good catch.. need to add that to my list of stuff to remove from the 124 donor car before I junk it. I plan to swap the pump for a sedan pump. Quote:
as for EDS, not sure how complex that system is if I can move it or just turn up the base idle and be done with it.. what are the components involved with the EDS ? not sure how to tackle the tach yet.. and I probably wont run cruise control for now. Quote:
that 606 wiring would be WAYYYYYY worse :eek: but it would be nice.. I think the next project will be W129 fitted with the V8 out of a E400 CDI now THAT would be a car... |
Quote:
and you are thinking I can remove /disable all that crap ? crap=the vac amps behind the RH headlight and associated systems |
I would take everything needed to make it work. So whatever the wagon has I would try to transplant it in the sl.
I would of tried to gotten a 606 since they are quicker off the line. |
EDS is electronic Diesel system
ARV is air recirculation valve OVP is overvoltage protection EDS controls idle and emission devices. Emission devices are EGR and ARV, not counting the passive trap oxidizer or replacement oxidation catalyst (since from the pictures your 603 doesn't have a trap). Atop the engine vacuum pump is a 5-way splitter. The two lines that go towards the right headlight can be capped if you disable EGR and ARV. Then the vacuum devices and all the hoses on the passenger side can be removed. The EGR valve can be removed (you can get an EGR cap kit or make your own caps) or simply disabled. I strongly recommend covering the EGR port at the mixing pipe even if you keep the EGR valve in place for looks. The ARV is attached to the turbo compressor housing. Detaching the vacuum line detaches it but make sure the valve is seated squarely over the supply port and the spring keeps firm pressure on the valve. I ended all doubt by pressing a 12mm (or was it a 1/2") freeze plug into the supply port. You can't easily remove the ARV because of the odd shaped output port into the compressor inlet pipe. You'll know what I mean when you open the ARV. No gaskets to worry about. The bigger black line that crosses the engine bay is a vent line for the vacuum amplifiers. It goes into the cabin a few inches and just hangs there. I don't remember if the vent line from the left side of the engine taps into the same vent or if there's a separate vent for the left side devices. In any case, it's just a vent. With EGR and ARV out of the way, EDS only controls idle, and doesn't need the MAF to do so. You'll need a wiring diagram for all the connections to and from the EDS module. If this were my project, I'd locate a Euro exhaust manifold or one from a 92-95 140 Diesel. The simpler exhaust manifold gets hot exhaust to the turbo sooner. You'll need the turbo oil supply line that goes with the manifold. There are two more branches off the engine vacuum pump. One goes to the cabin for ACC register selection, the other goes to the transmission modulator. I don't know why this vintage 603 has such a complicated transmission modulator. Earlier and later versions have a vacuum line to the IP. That's it. This middle year set-up has a vacuum amplifier and temperature control switch. If you can live with it disconnected, by all means do so. Otherwise move the whole kit and kaboodle over to the SL. There might be a vacuum diagram decal in the wagon engine bay. The ALDA gets a boost signal from the manifold. A line goes to a VSV which is hooked up to a pressure sensor on the manifold beside the ALDA signal nipple. Pretty simple set-up - +12V to the VSV when the engine is running and a ground signal from the pressure sensor above 1.1 bar. No electrical connection to EDS or anything else. And of course a signal line from the VSV to the ALDA. There's a splitter at the ALDA for a boost signal to the transmission vacuum amplifier. Again, 617s and 603.971s manage without this boost signal to the transmission modulator. Sixto 87 300D |
I forgot to mention - vacuum for engine shut-off is sourced at a check valve along the vacuum line to the brake booster. Shut-off works just as well sourced from the 5-way splitter. Maybe MB thinks you're more likely to have a vacuum leak among those devices than at the brake booster. Imagine having no brake assist and not being able to shut off the engine :eek:
Look into how remote start kits compatible with Diesels effect engine shut-off. I don't know anything about that Grainger valve but what you need is something that will switch the engine shut-off actuator between a vacuum supply when the key is off and a vent when the key is on AND cap the vacuum supply when the key is on. If the side extension of the wagon engine sump is a fitment problem, you have the option of using any M103, M104 or OM603 sump with the caveat that you might have to find or fabricate an appropriate oil pick-up tube. Drop in solutions are the pump and sump off a 90-91 350SD/L or both from a 92-95 140 Diesel. Note that the 92-95 140 Diesel sump has a baffle plate between the rod caps the oil pump attaches to and the oil pump itself so there is some positiong to consider if you don't keep the baffle. Some folks are averse to the baffle because thats another dozen nuts that can come loose and get ingested by the oil pump. I've never heard of that actually happening. It's more likely the vacuum pump will explode and send debris into the sump. On that note, I hope you're aware of problems with the old style engine vacuum pump. It's much safer to go with a newer style pump with sealed bearings. Safer is not absolute. Resident 603 guru gsxr/DaveM just had a new style vacuum pump failure. Looks like no additional engine damage beyond the local carnage. Interesting reading. There's also some discussion as to the quality of ~$100 replacements vs $300 Pierburg pumps. Sixto 87 300D |
Quote:
Got any GPH consumption figures yet ? I was going to drop a OM617A in a 107 but on my post everyone said 'can't be done'...now I'm thinking 'maybe it would work'. I have done many things over the years only to be told later 'you can't do that !' I have found the 617 cylinder head to be the biggest obstacle to putting out power...I'm talking about 200 hp. The intake and exhaust port runners are very narrow and the casting is such that there is a lot of room for opening up the runners. Any way...hope your 107 works out...I'll be watching.:) . |
Nobody said it couldn't be done, we said it would require some significant modifications.
|
sixto..
thanks for the wealth of information.. that will help a bunch.. I plan to post a diagram of my "planned" configuration both vac and electrical for peer review. |
Quote:
they run famously.. no mods yet.. other the removal of all emissions related stuff future mods include a air to water intercooler and some fuel/boost mods other then the water injection exhaust, its basically two straight pipes out the back of the boat.. and with two 617's and all 10 cylinders going the sound is pretty awesome.. as far as GPH.. I dont have any real data but at hull speed ( maximum speed before transom water separation ) the 617's are at about 1500RPM and I am going about 9-11 kts maybe 1PSI of boost and using almost no fuel.. I ran around all day at that speed and used like 5 gallons of fuel |
Quote:
|
Boat conversion is super impressive!
If you can do a boat project to that level of expertise I'd think you could handle the SL conversion with one hand tied behind your back!
Anyway good luck and keep the pictures coming.:) |
So what are you going to do with that V8, put it in the wagon???
|
Why would you choose the most rare 603 powered car to pull an engine from? Was the wagon in running condition/good shape??? Those are very sought after and valuable cars!! :confused::eek::eek: You'd think you'd go for a rusted out or smashed SDL or something???
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:48 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website