PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - How do you properly adjust the Throttle Linkage

PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/)

- Diesel Discussion (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/)

- - How do you properly adjust the Throttle Linkage (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/232870-how-do-you-properly-adjust-throttle-linkage.html)

Yes, it does and is able to make it to the WOT stop if I push down on the vertical linkage rod connected to the throttle arm. About 1/2 “ to 3/4” travel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 3931989)

There is another measurement/adjustment in the Factory Service Manual that requires a little metal disc to be inserted but I have never done that.

If you're referring to the disk with a hole in the center, the disk can be approximated by drilling a 1/8" hole in the center of a US nickle. Two nickles glued together would be fancier still. I forgot the details but they are in the 126 FSM and relate to the 617 engine.

See if one of the manual site will work for you:
W123 Service Manual
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/?requestedDocId=12265

I just checked it opened for me. Choose disc #2

On the right side of the first page is the lengths of the various rods. It does not say it but it is in mm. Most rulers these days have one side with mm on it.

In my experience it's been a lot easier to just guess and check.

It should be pretty easy to figure how to make the linkage a quarter inch longer, just undo the lock nuts and make some length adjustments.

Although be careful cuz you could mess with the tranny shift points

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911 (Post 3932381)

On the right side of the first page is the lengths of the various rods. It does not say it but it is in mm. Most rulers these days have one side with mm on it.

Yea, I got a hold of that through google. I reverted my rods to factory length but still didn’t help much. I’m going to replace the pivot bushing on the gas pedal rod and see if that helps.

Thank you very much for taking the time to help me.

I fixed the throttle linkages and I have full throttle to make contact with the Wide Open Throttle stop on the IP.

I made a temporary pivot bushing fix using steel wire wrapped behind the pivot bushing housing and wrapped the ends around the throttle arm/bar to prevent it from sliding out of its socket. It works great and has full range of motion.

I then adjusted the ball socket linkage that first gets pulled when throttle is pressed. It’s the one that pulls the connected roller lever on top of the valve cover. I made sure it had full range of motion, starting at it’s resting point notch, to the very end @WOT. Then I extended the vertical ball socket linkage that connects to the INjector pump. Had to extend that one quite a bit, but now I have full throttle.

All I can say is this car went from being a bummer/lost cause to bring peppy and fun to drive, especially on the highway.

Just need to figure out why my steering is so sensitive at high speed. I have about an inch of play on the steering wheel and I can drive in a straight line without being pulled to any side, but soon as I correct slightly , the car wants to fly into the next lane.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wusha (Post 3935906)

You should really inspect that steering system right away. This is very unusual with these cars. Well it is not good with any car. You could have something really bad in the steering system.

Unfortunatly these recirculating ball type steering boxes get loose with age. Some adjustment is possible but in your case you have to find what is causing the darting. I am not a chicken but the loss of steering is worse than the loss of brakes.

The alignment may be seriously out of adjustment. Could do this but so can other things, Have you noticed a change if one front tire is on a wet area and the other on a dry surface? If it takes off towards the dry side your toe out is substantial.

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry12345 (Post 3936120)

Have you noticed a change if one front tire is on a wet area and the other on a dry surface? If it takes off towards the dry side your toe out is substantial.

No, not yet. Im going to check the play under the car. Diesel911 gave me some good info on what to look for underneath, to determine what is the root cause.

I drove 300 miles today 65-75mph up the Grapevine in California. Wasnt too bad, you get used to it. But I agree, its very unusual. Great little car for 350k+ miles. Need to get me some valve wrenches soon though; sounds like a fun repair.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wusha (Post 3935906)

Have you driven the Car enough to notice if it is having uneven tire wear (wearing more one side edge of the tire then other). On your alignment specs less Caster causes less stability.
When front end components are changed it changes the aliment. According to the FSM Changing the Chamber effects the Caster and Changing the Caster Effects the Caster. So worn or rotted out rubber parts that control either can effect the other.

But, you need to look into what you PMed me about first.

I forgot to mention that if you are under the Car and the Steering Wheel is moved but the Pitman arm does not move then the issue is in the Box or that coupling I mentioned.