My reason for switching to Mobil 1 is to clean out the oil passages & keep them clean. So far, and after only 2000 miles, I have noticed only occasional slight weeping of oil. This is on a 208K mile-engine from 1977. So I cannot imagine your 1999 engine would have any adverse effects, unless it has been severely mistreated in the past.

In the end, you can always switch back to a petroleum based oil after using synthetic.

__________________

Don't Chrome them; polish them

My engine actually leaked less after switching to synthetic.

I doesn't say anything about this in my owners manual!
Where do you all come up with these crazy ideas?

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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Well from what I have read i will be changing my oil today!!! Why do some people say that the Rotella 5w40 isn't really synthetic, and if it is why do they claim it to be. Also here is a stupid question, but when i refill my oil should I pour any oil into the filter compartment or leave it dry? Thanks.

__________________
2006 E320CDI- current dd
1999 E300TD - retired
Wilmington, NC USA

If you are referring to your 84 SD then yes, your owners manual won't say anything.

Here is the list for 1998+. Notcie Rotella is not on it.

MB sheet 229.3 approced oils
for passenger cars with gas and diesel engines with extended drain interval indicator FSS up to 20,000 km, or 40,000 km - 25,000 mi, current minimum spec for 1998+ MB engines, min. 1.0% fuel saving compared to 229.1, based on ACEA A3 B4. For gas engine of the M100 series, gas engines of the M200 series and diesel engines of the OM600 series (not models with Euro 4 diesel particle filters).
AGIP EXTRA HTS 5W-40
AGIP Synthetic PC 0W-40
AGIP Eurosport 0W-40
Amsoil 5W-30 Synthetic MotorOil
Amsoil 10W-30 Synthetic
Amsoil Series 3000 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel
Aral HighTronic 5W-40
Aral SuperSynth 0W-40
Aral Super Tronic 0W-40
Aviasynth 0W-40
Castrol DCO TOPUP SAE 0W-30
Castrol Formula RS Road and Track 5W-40
Castrol GTX7 DYNATEC 5W-40
Castrol Formula SLX 0W-30
Castrol TXT SOFTEC PLUS 5W-30
CIFAB Synthoil Hydrocrack HC7 5W-40
Elf Excellium LDX SAE 5W-40
Esso Ultron 0W-30 (fuel economy)
Esso Ultron 5W-40
Fuchs Silkolene Pro S 5W-40 - 100% Synthetic Oil For All Race Engines
Fuchs Silkolene Pro S 10W-50 - 100% Synthetic Oil For All Race Engines
Fuchs Titan SuperSyn SL 0W-30
Havoline Synthetic DS 0W-30
Kendall GT-1 Full Synthetic 5W-40
Liqui Moly Diesel Synthoil 5W-40
Liqui Moly High Tech 5W-40
Liqui Moly HC7 5W-40
LUKOIL SYNTEETIK 5W-40
Mobil 1 SuperSyn European Car Formula 0W-40
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-40
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-50
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W-40
Mobil Synt S 5W-40
Mobil Synt S Turbo Diesel 5W-40
Mobil Syst S 5W-40
Motul 8100 E-Tech 0W-40
Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40
Pennzoil Synthetic European Formulation 5W-40
Pentosin Pentospeed 0W-30 VS
Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formulation 5W-40
Schaeffer Micron Moly 5W-30, 10W-40
Schaeffer Supreme 7000 5W-30, 10W-30, 20W-50
76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40
Shell Helix Plus S 5W-40 (Mercedes-Benz)
Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40
Sunoco Synturo Gold 5W-40 (introduced January 2002)
Total FINA First 5W-40
Total Quartz 9000 5W-40
Valvoline DuraBlend MXL 5W-40
Valvoline SynPower MXL 0W-30
Valvoline SynPower 5W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40
Veedol POWERTRON 5W-30
Veedol SYNTRON 0W-30

__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

Group III oil is a fake synthetic. Its dino oil cracked to perform similar to actual synthetic.

I usually pour a quart into the filter housing when I put in the filter. I don't know how much of it stays in the filter or leaks down into the pan. I at least get to think some of that oil gets to the bearings more quickly this way...

Mine also. I had a seep at the front crank seal in my '96 which pretty much stopped after switching to synthetic.

As for putting oil in the filter housing, I put all of the oil in there. No, it won't get to the bearings any faster, but it does keep the oil off of the valve stems.

On the 606, you are supposed to either ensure that the oil does not flow onto the head (by pouring it toward the front of the opening), or you need to let the engine sit for 15 minutes after installing the oil before starting.

If you put the oil in the filter opening, it goes to the same place as if you put it in the valve cover. But there is no chance of flooding the valve stems and the hole is a LOT bigger.

Can you 'splain why this is? Does it apply to the older (ie 601) engines as well?

Thanks

Where was your leak?
Synthetic will usually soften seals, thus causing them to seal better. If the leak is at a gasket, the leak will probably become worse.

__________________

Don't Chrome them; polish them

I don't agree.

Synthetics, as well as dino oil, all have additives that affect the seal swell. They are all engineered to swell the seals about the same now, where 30years ago the syn oils didn't have the additives to swell seals as much as the dino oils did. This is where the "synthetic oil causes oil leaks" legend all started, ... not in the past 20years though.

It is possible that the syn oil will clean crud that has slowed or prevented leaks, but Mercedes' official stance according to The Star some years ago was if it leaks more with syn. oil, and you don't want to fix the leak, switch back to dino oil.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

My engine is quieter and smoother on Rotella Synthetic than it ever was on Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck. I stand behind the Rotella. The Mobil 1 always looked thicker when I drained it out too...probably collected too much soot. COST is part of it too. Why spend nearly $7 a quart on Mobil 1 when I can get two gallons of rotella synthetic for $36? I'll spend the saved money on a better filter and a shorter change interval (4k).

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Which weight of Rotella? My cars seem to like 5w40 Mobil 1 and are just as quiet if not quieter than with conventional 15w40...
In my 190D I change at 15,000 miles so I LOVE Mobil 1 as I save some money and I don't have to change the stinkin oil as often. I have done MANY (12 I think) oil analysises before I decided on that change interval. I could probably go a little longer but you gotta stop someplace.

The 5w40 Rotella Synthetic....thats the only weight they offer as far as I know.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

My thoughts exactly. It is darn hard to get M1 Turbo Diesel 5W40 around here anyway. Neither Wallyworld nor AZone nor the local NAPA stock it. They all stock the Rotella Syn 5W40. I just change the filter and adda quart around 2000 ~2500 miles and the oil + filter around 4~5k miles.

__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy"

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