I am thinking about using synthetic oil at my next oil change. I will probably go with the sythetic Rotella. My car is a 1999 and has about 105,000 miles on it. Do you think it is likely that I will develop any oil leaks after switching to synthetic? I know some engines leak like crazy after they are switched over to synthetic from conventional. Also do you think I will get much better MPG with synthetic? Currently I am using 15W40 conventional Rotella.

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2006 E320CDI- current dd
1999 E300TD - retired
Wilmington, NC USA

From what I understand Rotella synthetic isn't a "real" synthetic but a highly refined conventional oil and thus offers no gain over the oil you're using currently.
I've switched several vehicles to Mobil 1 synthetic and had good results. I think a car as new as yours with as low miles has very little to worry about. I have seen cases where oil consumption rises in the short term and drops back in the longer. I've also seen cases (like my Dodge pickup) where oil consumption was very high (qt in 500 miles) and dropped over time to (qt in 4500 miles) a reasonable level. In each case the changes tend to be fairly gradual.

You need to ask yourself what you expect to gain from synthetic oil. If you wanted extended time between oil changes you need a real synthetic like Mobil 1, Amsoil or Redline. If you're thinking this just gives you "added protection" double check you've actually got oil in the engine every time you start it and keep the money in your pocket...

-Curt

Right, skip the fake Rotella "Synthetic" and use an actual synthetic like Mobil1 or Amsoil.

yup- send all your money to the oil barrons. mobil needs more of your money.

I will not spend another one of my hard earned dimes on anything mobil, no matter how many brasinwashed peeps say it is gooder than the rest. ( and it may well be, but at 300K+ on my engine, will it really make a difference?) This includes amsoil, because this is just basically M1 with More additives.( they buy base stock from mobil.)

but I do run rotella syn 5-40, mostly because I live in subzero temperatures parts of the year, and it really helps cold starts. I do not run an extended drain period on my car, but it has the 617 w/ a lot of soot created.
I switched to syn at about 280K w/ no issues at all, infact i think now i add less makeup oil between changes- from 1Qt down to a half qt. in 5k miles.

I recon you could use rotella longer in your car, but best bet is to spend the $24 on an oil anallisys for the first few changes, they can recommend how long to run it. do not change filter brands, etc w/out re-establishing the base line.

not entirely relevant, but when I was working on Peterbuilts w/ CAT engines, we would run 15K on rotella 15-40 dino. now these trucks do have a huge filter- holds a gallon- and a huge sump- oil change was 12.5 gallons, as I recall. so I am somewhat partial to rotella oils. plus it smells good.

I am waiting for these guys to release a product, so I can support Montana farmers instead of any oil companies.


my $.02

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Meh, your loss. Too bad the conspiracy nuts have brainwashed you into thinking capitalism is bad.

15K? Thats it? Swift runs their ISX, Series 60, D12 and D13 powered trucks for 30,000 on Valvoline Dino oil and many have 500k-900k miles on their original non-rebuilt engine.

GS - You ought to be using a full syn rather than dino oil; there are no dino products on the approved fluids list. To the best of my knowlwdge, the oil that came in it from the factory was M1 European Blend 0W/40.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I knew you would take a difference in opinion and turn it into a personal attack. shows how mature you are.


umm- conspiracy????? Who said conspiracy? While were on the topic-I suppose you still think global climate change is a conspiracy, too? wake up, dude- we all need to do something to change our planet's course. mobil has the same mantra as the RNC closed with- Drill, Drill, Drill.....FTW, we greedy americans need more oil. at any cost. not the kind of company I will support.

I do think that using synthetic oils is a good thing, not just for your car, but for the entire planet. I wish there were more choices out there.


I did not say anything about capitalism being bad- I said I am not going to give any of my money to a corporation as disgusting as mobil. just my opinion.

on the OP- I have heard the stories about massive leaks from syn, but I have never seen proof, nor has anyone round these parts had such issues recently(that I am aware of) so I really doubt that you would have any issues, especially with that new of an engine.


Again- just my $.02

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Not an attack, just pointing out your illogical fear of Mobil. BTW, "brasinwashed peeps" means you were doing the "personal attacks" first so get off your high horse.

Yeah, no, thats not even REMOTELY on topic. Climate change is real, the Earth is always changing and has been for billions of years. Its the man-caused part that isn't real.

If you actually knew much about how nasty every buisness is run you would be living on a personal farm in the middle of nowhere. You certainly wouldn't be using the internet and driving a nazi-mobile.

To balance my previous post my '83 240D did develop massive oil leaks with Mobil1 in the crankcase. That engine had been mistreated before I got it though and I think it would have developed leaks no matter what.

I fail to see how supporting Shell buying Rotella every 3,000 (or 5,000 or whatever) is any better than supporting Exxon Mobil buying Mobil 1 every 15,000 miles. I have an OM601 engine and oil analysis has consistently supported the higher oil changed in my car (your mileage will probably vary).

Big trucks IIRC burn off a portion of their oil constantly and its the make up oil thats being added to a huge oil sump (several gallons) which allows extended change intervals while using dino oil.

I really enjoy extended change intervals since I drive 110 miles a day, I like only changing the oil 3 times a year...

just to set the topic back on track...
what do you guys think of the Lubro-molly synthetic oil? NAPA carries a full line of it now, and I was just wondering if it's group 4/3 dinowith additives? real? worth it? any good?
thanks.
I'm kinda peeved that rotella syn has jumped up 4.00 a gallon...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I've been running Amsoil or occasionally Mobil-1 in my Volvo for 10 years. We considered switching the 240D over but it burns so much that it isn't viable financially right now. Political opinions aside, the synthetics are superior in performance and will help clean the engine oil passages. If it a big enough difference to justify the cost is a personal opinion, but I wouldn't run standard dino oil in a turbo engine in good shape. Even after 10 years of synthetic the oil passages in the turbo we just pulled off were getting clogged with coked oil deposits. When I bought the car the inside of the valve cover was completely black, and several changes later it was a beautiful oily bronze color. Still is. I'd hate to think how that turbo would look on dino oil still.

A synthetic oil will not create any new oil leaks or destroy seals. What it will do over time is clean out the nasty old coked and dried old oil residue in the oil passages. Some of those old dino oil deposits may be covering your seals or gaskets and preventing a leak, so keep an eye on your seals or wait until you replace some of them to switch.

I personally shorten the change interval for the first few changes of synthetic oil in an engine that has run on dino for a while, just to make sure the oil stays clean enough while it is flushing out those oil deposits. Or at least change the filter since it is so easy to do.

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1971 280 SEL
1981 Volvo 242Tic | 1980 Bertone Coupe

Rotella synthetic 5W-40 may not be quite as good as Mobil 1 but it is better than any conventional dino oil. In the last 20 years, only one of my vehicles developed a leak after changing to synthetic and that one stopped leaking after the second oil change.

I use primarily Rotella synthetic but will grab Mobil 1 when it is on sale.

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Ron Schroeder
'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
'70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel
'76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel
'86 Golf
Several diesel generators
All with 2 tank WVO conversion
LI NY

I just had my oil changed at a Valvoline Instant Oil change joint. I helped the newbie tech figure out how to get the filter in and out 'cuz he was not so smart about it. I would normally be doing my own, but with a broken leg its kinda hard to climb under cars...

To the point- Is Valvoline oil crap? I really haven't heard much said about their product on here since most people are using Shell Rotella or a synthetic. I used M1 TD Syn last winter and the car cranked over great in sub zero temps. I plan to use Valvoline Syn 5-40 this winter. But how is their stuff? Any issues or what?

Also, I got an STP filter from AutoDrone- it actually looked nicer than the Mann filters I usually use. Only negative is that it didnt come with the 2 O-Rings for the oil housing plunger.

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1984 300D

Your car requires synthetic for the FSS sytem, and came with Mobil 1 from the factory.

On MB's approved oil's list for your car their are no dino oils, the list has been posted many times and it should be in the archives. Pick an oil off that list.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Ditto. If I recall Rotella is not on that list but I do remember seeing Lubra-moly, Mobil 1 and Amsoil along with about a hundred others.

I think Rotella is fine for the 617s (I use Mobil 1, mainly because I buy it at Fleet Farm and it is the cheapest true synthetic there) but I would definitely not use Rotella in my 99 E300D (If I owned one that is!). I would use a true synthetic per Mercedes specs.

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2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD