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#1
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Where is the water leak?
Have a small leak somewhere in the wagon. After washing the car last night I noticed that the rear driver side floor was a little damp. I could also tell that the water dripped down from the B-pillar, from inside the plastic b-pillar cover, as the carpet on the exterior wall of the footwell was also a little damp.
No puddles or major flooding. No moldy odor. Just damp. I keep the drains near the hood hinges clean, as well as the rails that run the length of the roofline. The windshield? It doesn't leak as far as a I can tell; which means it doesn't leak on me or my passengers while driving, etc. Anywhere else to look and/or double check? Trying to keep this a rust-free ride.
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold) 1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles 1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles 2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold) |
#2
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Are you sure it dripped inside the pillar?
I would guess from where you said the moisture is, that the rear door seal has split at the top of the door and is letting water drip onto the rear carpet. Check out the seal. You can tug the seal together and glue it with silicone sealant and use electrical tape to back it while it cures. The split I'm talking about is the place where they seam the seal together when it's new. It fails there commonly. You don't have a wet headliner do you?
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#3
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Not 100% positive, but think it's likely. The pillar itself is dry on the outside. But where the plastic meets the wool, only the carpet is damp. Dampness can be felt on the exterior wall of the footwell and floor of the footwell.
Quote:
I'll check, but I don't think so.
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold) 1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles 1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles 2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold) |
#4
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The seal leak I described is what I had on the passenger side of my wagon. When the water entered through the gap in the door seal, it dripped on the floor and the outside wall area just like you described. The angle of the door allowed the drips to fall all the way down there without hitting the door panel or window at all.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#5
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Quote:
I'll try the silicon sealant, but am afraid that the seal is too brittle to hold/stretch/etc. We'll see.
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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold) 1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles 1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles 2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold) |
#6
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If you don't want to pull the seal together, you can use electrical tape to create a "form" and fill the gap with the silicone sealant. It may take two or three applications to fill the gap, but it would work fine. Then once it's all cured, peel the tape away and enjoy. I would put the tape across the seal where it will touch the car when the door is closed, that way it will create a nice flat that will seal well once the tape is removed. Also close the door while it cures so it cures to the correct shape.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#7
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DON'T USE SILICONE! I used a bit of goop I think. it's an acrylic glue, I did use a bit of electrical tape to form a dam, and let it set up. it's tight as a drum now.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#8
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I wouldn't use silicone anywhere else as it promotes rust, but I don't think it's in contact with much when repairing a ripped seal with it. You could use butyl rubber sealant to repair the seal as well if you're concerned with the risk of rust promotion. I guess the risk would be greater, the larger the gap is that you try to fill.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#9
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Quote:
The rest of my leaking turned out to be the windshield-gasket interface, and a small bead of silicone sealer fixed it.
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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png Broadband: more lies faster. |
#10
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my wagon filed up with water in the floor pans. Dried it out, happened again but to a lesser degree. I found the same water intrusions as Chad and clearing out the sunroof drains along with the chasis drains (rubber grommets in undercarriage) stopped all of that.
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