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  #16  
Old 09-22-2008, 08:43 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 31,213
Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
I was also wondering a little about this as well. It does seem a little illogical to have to move the car to make the tumbler work. Although anything is possible. The effect of gravity on parts as light as those in the tumbler mechanisim would only give a minimal possible change with the car in another relative fairly simular position. You are not putting the car on to its side or roof for example.

Now if the old tumbler has been generally shakey over time it should be changed just on the basis of avoiding a lock up condition. Keep an open mind or try activation of the mechanisim with the tumbler removed. At least it is easier to deal with this area if it is not totally locked up. Who really knows with these somewhat unorthodox issues?

It might still just be the tumbler. I know there is one tumbler of mine that I have delayed changing out. If it should lock up I have only myself to blame. Causitive agents to mechanisim damage can include someone trying to force the assembley at some time or a crude attempt to steal the car. After twenty some years wear cannot be ignored either I suppose.

Your ace in the hole may be that you can borrow another tumbler out of one of your other cars to check it with before buying a new one. That is one advantage of having more than one simular car .
Yeah, I might steal one from my race car. Its low mileage....145K!
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Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins& six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I am finishing a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual....I also have a Lotus 7 replica autocrosser with a modified K20 Acura engine.
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  #17  
Old 09-22-2008, 09:27 PM
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diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 5,432
some other thread

I posted ....this summer....like in early July; one day, it took me like 15 minutes to UNLOCK my driver door with the key. I didn't lock it again. The passenger door lock never has worked on Coda.

I drove immediately to the Hardware Store where they have a locksmith --- I advised him AGAINST using graphite; he had a some type of "dry" spray that he used; looked at the key; and said, "I think if you get a new key, you will be okay".

Since Coda is about 23 years old and all the locks are keyed the same, I visited the dealer the next day. I only had the original master key with the red dot.....so I wanted a new master key AND a valet key. The new master was $16.50 and a new valet key would have been $20. Instead, I ordered a new ignition switch which comes with a master.

About 3 days later, I called the dealer and the order had arrived that morning from Dallas. Imagine that, the keys are cut in Dallas. I took the new key out and it locked and unlocked the driver door very easily. I then walked over to the passenger side and the new master key easily locked and unlocked the passenger lock.

I still haven't replaced my ignition switch.
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Germantown, TN

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Current Car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
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  #18  
Old 09-22-2008, 10:17 PM
mobetta's Avatar
(Oo{-I-}oO)
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: minnesota,hey.
Posts: 1,840
I forgot to mention-
At one point when I had a bad starter in some random POS car, and I was too poor to fix it (beer was more important!), I put a clothespin on the key so I would remember not to shut it off unless I was parked on a hill.

If ya go that route...

Ahh- good times- Parking a car with no starter AND no reverse....
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