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#16
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Shell Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic
Has all the Additives for your Flat Tappet valve train.(In fact more of the correct kind and quantity than ANY other oil)
(to answer your question , YES) LOOK, OIL Is the ONE thing you should not **** around with. The Refiners spend Kazillions in Blending the correct ratios of additives You as a "Concerned" owner are "Playing With Fire" attempting to "Re-Engineer" the Lubricants...AND we all know what happens to people who play with fire.
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#17
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Out of curiosity, I called the parts department at my nearby Benz dealer. I asked them if they had a recommendation for a winter oil for my car. Surprisingly, they said they just use a standard 10W40 oil year round for all models before those that specified synthetic.
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1982 240D automatic Odometer quit at 307K...about 325K now |
#18
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So, 10w40, as in any motor oil, like for gasoline engines? I had thought that diesel branded oil has special stuff in it to deal with soot? Would be great to just buy that stuff, as you can find it everywhere, but I'm suspicious.
-Chuck
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar 1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar 2010 Honda Insight Hybrid http://www.chuckwyatt.com http://www.wordimpressive.com |
#19
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use only a diesel rated oil , especially with the older indirect injection engines.
do not take one person's word at a dealership. he may have mis-spoken, and meant a 15-40 diesel oil. are there any 10-40's rated for diesel?
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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#20
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Ok, I called back and talked to the guy I usually talk to. The other guy was wrong, it's 15W40, such as Rotella. He said that's a fine oil to use, but he didn't have a recommendation for anything lighter weight, other than to maybe check out the major oil manufacturers' websites (like Mobil) and see if they had any such products.
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1982 240D automatic Odometer quit at 307K...about 325K now |
#21
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Yep, that's this whole thread in a nutshell. It seems to me if I could get a 10W40 oil with the appropriate detergent/soot/ZDDP additives in it I'd be in for smoother starts this winter but there may not be any such thing made.
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1982 240D automatic Odometer quit at 307K...about 325K now |
#22
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#23
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Quote:
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#24
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fsm for oil applications and temperatures
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#25
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01-030 Removal and installation of engine (oil capacity)
That website is no longer active. jt20, clear your web browser caches. |
#26
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I'll have to check it out in the complete paper set of those manuals that I recently acquired.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#27
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maybe that
the footnote for 10w30: SAE 5W-20 below + 10 OC
SAE 10W-30 in temperate zones all-year. the footnote for 10w40 and 10w50: 3, All season oil Last edited by jt20; 09-23-2008 at 04:50 PM. |
#28
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Quote:
thanks Fi I downloaded the whole site.. I didnt realize |
#29
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Quote:
Temps in the 20's isnt particularly cold, you shouldn't have problems starting. I doubt a change of oil will dramatically help matters.... When was the last time the Injection Timing was checked...? As things wear (particularly chain etc.) the timing will retard. Retarded timing on any diesel will make it reluctant to start, according to how far its become retarded. Along with a Valve-Job and timing-chain check for stretch, (which at 300K miles will be quite evident) an Injection Pump Timing check/adjust will work wonders. Also worth remembering is the Injectors themselves do not last forever and maybe worth thinking about re-conditioning/replacing these too....
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year.... |
#30
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Answer:
I run Mobile1 20/W50 in the summer.
Winter I run 0/W40 Mobile1. It cranks so fast that I start on glow plugs with no block heater to -20F. Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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