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#1
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1982 300 cd
I'm new to this site. I'm going sometime this week to look at an 1982 300 CD. Can you advise me on areas that I need to pay attention to. The Owner said something about suspension problems any help in that area will be appreciated.
Thanks |
#2
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Look everywhere for rust. Pick up the carpets and look under the seats, look in the jack holes, look a the shock absorber mounts on the trailing arms, the springs, spring seats, trunk wells and an other place you can look.
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#3
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300cd
My first Benz was a 1980 300CD. Loved the car. Needed alot of work. Nothing major. But I did have oil spitting into the air breather. Got into the vac lines in the cabin as well. Big clean up.
Problem turned out to be a pierced diaphram in the vacuum pump located in front and low of the engine. Just look for evidence inside the air breather to start. If you get the car, change the diaphram as preventive maintenance. |
#4
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Where are you located? As stated check for rust, everthing else can be fixed over time. Suspention issues on these cars most of the time seems to lead to upper and lower ball joints and brake support rod joints all of which can be done as a DIY job with out a huge expence. If you are willing to do your own work most repairs aren't real expensive but if you are going to take it to a shop it can add up in a big hurry.
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1983 300SD 200000miles |
#5
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As stated, rust.
Even California cars weren't always in California! Sometimes you can tell what is needed in the suspension by taking a look and listen closely. This forum is a wealth of information. Do a blowby test (not really super important, but you can talk the seller down if there's lots of blowby) and see how it fires up cold. Check to see the functionality of everything. Tach, odometer, air conditioning (this item can get expensive in a hurry). Maintenance history is a bonus- don't pay big bucks without it. Good luck, they're nice cars if everything is in order.
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I-------------------------------------1981 300TD, Thistle Green, 140K------------------------------------I
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#6
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I'm in Central Florida. The pics make the car look clean but you never know to you go!
Hard to communicate the gentleman was a little weak in the english department. But that happens when you live in Florida. Like everyone else down here I'm a transplant started out in Virginia moved here in 1986. some would say I'm a little weak in the English Department myself. Thanks for the pointers. |
#7
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What town in Florida? There are a number of members in Florida that might be able to help you.
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1983 300SD 200000miles |
#8
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Umatilla I'm sure you have heard of it we have one traffic light and we leave it on all year.
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#9
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If the trunk smells strongly like mildew, there's a good chance the rear window seal leaks. That leaking over time produces rust around the window, in places you can't really see. I want to echo what everyone else has said about rust. I got my car in January that was "not too bad". Spent $600 at the welder and some spare time over the summer cleaning up issues with POR-15. Still have some rear fender issues which were skillfully covered over with filler and paint (and caused by years of water leaking into the trunk).
Also the blowby test. With the engine running, loosen the oil filler cap. If it just tilts to the side, with a gust of air coming out, that's pretty good. If it dances around on the air coming out, that's more wear. If it blows completely off, the compression is likely not good. Also, go somewhere that you can do a 0-60. Be sure it goes into all 4 gears without flaring and without trailing a lot of smoke.
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1982 240D automatic Odometer quit at 307K...about 325K now |
#10
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I think we have some members in the greater Orlando area. I lived in Lutz, north of Tampa, for about 5 years starting in 99. At least your away from the coast.
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1983 300SD 200000miles |
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