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  #16  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:51 AM
DeliveryValve's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaFox View Post
......
2. Take a good sized wire, I'd say 10 gauge or lower, and place one end on the positive terminal of the battery and the other on the starter motor's positive terminal. Just follow the wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the starter. That will 'jump start' the engine.
....
It would be easier to use the battery terminal block and jump the first and third screws.

Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticathlon View Post
Ok so lets say i get the car jump started, .....
In addition to getting the engine to crank over, you'll probably need to have the glow plugs fired up first before it would start. Not sure how you would accomplished that.

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  #17  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticathlon View Post
any ideas?
If the owner thinks the iginition is original, get a new key - eventually you'll have to do it anyway. The keys, tumblers, etc are made in Fort Worth, so you might even get it the next day.
To all the detractors: I've ordered new keys (and twice with tumblers) over the past 35 years of driving MB's - including this past spring for a key and new tumblers for my 300CD - and never had a misfire on the matches. Probably the biggest difference is that I've always bought the cars new and know that all the locks are original.
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  #18  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:56 AM
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You can always try bumping it into position if you're really desperate-
Take the replica key that doesn't work, attach it to a vibrating motor, and use that to try and turn the ignition
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  #19  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:57 AM
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One indicator that the tumbler was replaced with another non-VIN-matching-tumbler is when the key for ignition is diffferent from the door keys.... otherwise the door knobs are replaced by a non-VIN-matching door knobs...
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  #20  
Old 09-24-2008, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by arcticathlon View Post
gosh... to correct you, post #4 does not explain the original question i had. if they dealer says the vin is not right, then yes that is an issue. But it is completely different if i order a key with a Vin he says is acceptable and get a key that does not work.
Actually, both issues suggest a potential problem with the MB data base. Sorry you weren't able to see the connection.
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  #21  
Old 09-24-2008, 01:54 PM
ForcedInduction
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
No, that's not what it means. It means that MB's "system" doesn't keep track of key data very well.
No, it means the lock has been changed or is worn out beyond recognition.
MB's key system works great. For $25 its impossible to beat their deal! The key I bought from MB via my VIN code has worked flawlessly for over two years.
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  #22  
Old 09-24-2008, 01:58 PM
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I have ordered at least 3 keys and 2 ignition tumblers using the VIN from the dealer, and each one has been correct. There is no problem with the dealer database, just tango's attitude.
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  #23  
Old 09-24-2008, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticathlon View Post
Ok so lets say i get the car jump started, then i should be able to drive it forward and backwards, which could be enough just to get it up my driveway.

might just get AAA to get me, drop it off infront of my house and then try to get the key from MB.

thanks for the help
Doesn't the steering wheel lock in a slightly off center position? I hope your driveway is curved... the right way!

There is actually a car here in the same situation though, and I was also thinking of ways to get it home, because it is only $500 and supposedly runs.
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  #24  
Old 09-24-2008, 02:14 PM
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Also, if the ignition switch is in the off position, disconnect the shut off valve's vacuum source, or you will not get the car started VIA jumping the starter terminals.
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  #25  
Old 09-24-2008, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
No, it means the lock has been changed or is worn out beyond recognition.
None of the locks have been changed. They all worked fine (and still do) with the original key. The key that the dealer received was visibly different than the original; it wasn't even close. According to the dealer, problems with keys ordered by VIN number are not unusual.
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  #26  
Old 09-24-2008, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
There is no problem with the dealer database, just tango's attitude.
Apparently you missed the post about the unrecognized VIN!!!

But you are right. I should be more appreciative of folks who think they they know more about my vehicle's service history than I do!!!
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  #27  
Old 09-24-2008, 03:26 PM
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Thumbs down

Went throught the SD ordeal last month with a worn out tumbler. The lock shop I found had done MB locks for years. Said if the key is not correct, and it happens to turn the lock, it may not turn it again and then you could have a real problem. Best to check a new key with tumbler pulled from the ignition. But that takes a key to do, so it would not help you here.
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  #28  
Old 09-24-2008, 04:06 PM
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I have successfully ordered keys for both of mine by VIN.
Look at the size of the key slot. Sometimes they get changed to a generic type of lock, and the slot is thinner than the slot on the door. The MB key is wider than others. That might help to know if you have a chance with the vin.
Also, if you order he key, it does not work, then you order the tumbler you will have 2 keys for your car. and typically get a price break on the 2nd part.
I can not live with one key...
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  #29  
Old 09-24-2008, 04:10 PM
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My SDL had 2 keys when I bought it, a Early W123 non security key for the ignition and a door key....I ordered a new lock tumbler and key from the dealer and it works flawlessly with the doors, glove box, trunk and ignition lock....
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  #30  
Old 09-24-2008, 04:29 PM
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So would there be a way for me to apply direct battery voltage to the glow plug circuit? i guess i could disconnect the main cable going to the glow plugs and power it.

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