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  #16  
Old 09-27-2008, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post

.. the ALDA is not to be messed with
........said with conviction from a man who doesn't own a 603.
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  #17  
Old 09-27-2008, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
.. the ALDA is not to be messed with
Not true. Its not what people should go straight to when there is a power/performance complaint. However, once the engine is up to spec and performing as it should, adjusting the ALDA can return a decent gain in low end torque.

Removing it should only be done by those with a boost gauge and a keen eye on their engine's operation.
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  #18  
Old 09-27-2008, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post

Removing it should only be done by those with a boost gauge and a keen eye on their engine's operation.
Removing it on a 603 is recommended whether a boost gauge is present or not.

Read the aforementioned thread if you have any doubts.

The risk of a problem is minimal for most drivers.
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  #19  
Old 09-27-2008, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
The risk of a problem is minimal for most drivers.
Key word there. Its a throw of the dice if there will be a problem but it only takes once to cause damage.
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  #20  
Old 09-27-2008, 02:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Key word there. Its a throw of the dice if there will be a problem but it only takes once to cause damage.
You make the assumption that the overboost protection circuit is available and functional in these old vehicles. My contention is that most of the pressure sensors are plugged with soot after 20 years and they don't work anymore.

Other than you, how many people on this forum have damaged their engine due to an overboost condition? I ask in all sincerity, because I don't know of anyone else.

Due to your experience, you might be a bit biased in your opinion.
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  #21  
Old 09-27-2008, 02:47 AM
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I've seen plenty in junkyards. I have a T3 turbine from a 300SD that was melted and snapped the shaft.
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300 SDL is slow to accelerate-t3melt.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 09-27-2008, 03:54 AM
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took it to a mechanic and he said he knows i'm getting boost but i dont know how much.... I'm going to take a look at the tank strainer how is that pulled?
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  #23  
Old 09-27-2008, 03:56 AM
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How is the tank strainer checked?
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  #24  
Old 09-27-2008, 09:29 AM
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My main concern about messing with the ALDA is once you open it (break the seal) and change the setting from factory specs, theres no turning back.

As long as you know this, thats what matters.

As has been mentioned, there are other ways to improve performance. Messing with the alda affects tune up and the resulting fuel consumption.
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  #25  
Old 09-27-2008, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggspeed View Post
How is the tank strainer checked?
Underneath the vehicle, directly above the axle you'll see two hoses connect up to fittings beneath the body. One of the hoses is attached to the strainer. You'll know this because there will be a 46mm nut that is flat against the body above that fitting.

You'll need to be very low on fuel and then remove the hose and allow the remaining fuel to drain.

When fully drained, you'll need a 46mm or 1 13/16" socket to remove the strainer. Be sure you have a new strainer or at least the O-ring before you start the job.
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  #26  
Old 09-27-2008, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggspeed View Post
How is the tank strainer checked?
Can you switch your fuel lines under the hood on the 603? The 617's fuel in and return lines are side by side on the driver's side, so it's easy. On mine, as long as there's four gallons in the tank the return line will pick up fuel. So if it's a dirty tank screen, you'll either get a clean feed in or the return pressure may blow your tank screen clean. Good luck.
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  #27  
Old 09-27-2008, 11:16 AM
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THE FACTORY SPEC IS PERFORMANCE! You don't go "back to the factory spec", because the factory service manual tells technicians to adjust the screw if the car is not developing adequate power below 2300rpm.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tobybul View Post
My main concern about messing with the ALDA is once you open it (break the seal) and change the setting from factory specs, theres no turning back.

As long as you know this, thats what matters.

As has been mentioned, there are other ways to improve performance. Messing with the alda affects tune up and the resulting fuel consumption.
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  #28  
Old 09-27-2008, 11:27 AM
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Boost vs Alda:

If the ALDA is a problem on your 603 (the original post), you will have little or no power until around 2300rpm, then it will rocket away. Based on your 30second 0-60 it sounds like this is not the case.

So first, be sure the car is shifting properly. With the loud pedal firmly depressed into the downshift button, it should pull to at least 4500rpm before shifting. If it is short-shifting, this is (at least part of) your problem.

If it is shifting properly, but has no boost feeling around 2300rpm and above, it is likely not getting enough boost. Take the vacuum line that is in the middle of the intake plenum facing the driver's fender, run a wire (paper clip or whatever) in it to clear out a possible clog. Then re-attach the line, verify that you can blow through it, and attach the other end to the ALDA (the aluminum flying-saucer looking thing on the top of the Injection Pump (IP). The ALDA is difficult to see under the intake plenum & 3-4 runners but it's there.

Take it for a drive, does it have new-found power? If so, it is common for the solenoid that the line you just messed with goes to, that is the overboost protection solenoid (search overboost protection and search switchover valve for photos) and it frequently clogs. I've cleaned them by shooting WD-40 or carb cleaner through it, should be a straight shot through when non-powered.

If the car seems to surge at first, but has no high-rpm, look for obstructions in the airflow, including a stuck flap in the airflow sensor beneath the air-filter housing. Also check to see if the turbo turns by hand, and check fuel flow including fuel-tank strainer and vent.

This is the order in which I have and would do it. The most likely is a broken or clogged line in the overboost protection so that boost never gets to the IP and signals for boost enrichment. You will have boost pressure in this instance, but no fuel to go with it, so no power.

Also, I have seen two 603.961 (300SDL) cars with the link rod from the wastegate to the vacuum chamber/actuator on the turbo, DISCONNECTED!. This can be seen by looking down onto the turbo, linkage is on top and runs fore/aft on the assembly from the vacuum actuator.
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  #29  
Old 09-27-2008, 05:27 PM
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Under normal driving the tranny shifts at about 2800, and under heavy pedal pressure it will shift much higher...

I'm going to run diesel purge both in the tank and right into the fuel lines...

My mechanic said the turbo was working fine, but i don't know how well he checked it out..... He replaced the flex pipe and it made a whole world of difference... But not up to what this should run at....

Since putting diesel purge in the tank only on a low fuel supply i have already noticed better performance so that leads me to believe its the fuel supply thats the issue here....

I'm going to also replace both fuel filters the primary was replaced last week and helped a little but with all the purge.. it may be dirty again and will be replaced accordingly.... The secondary was replaced about 4000 miles ago as soon as i got the car, but may be clogged again so i'm going to put a new one on their also...

I'm going to my grandfather's garage next week on my day off where him and i are going to look at it... He doesn't know much about diesels or any european cars, but drove stock cars for 40 years tuning them himself so his assistance should be somewhat helpful..

What should we look for ?
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  #30  
Old 09-27-2008, 06:03 PM
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Start with the symptoms as I mentioned above. You are completely shooting in the dark if you can't decide if it is strong at low-end or not, building power at high-rpm, etc.

Also mimicing the bad boost thing is restricted exhaust.
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