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  #16  
Old 09-30-2008, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee8go View Post
I changed the oil in my 300TD and after pumping out a gallon of oil (not sure how much it actually is supposed to hold), I put in a gallon. Before pumping the old oil out, it read in the middle of the high and low marks. After refilling with the same amount, it is way above (1 1'2"-2") the high mark.

Is it possible that once it is started some of that oil will be held in other parts of the engine and the level will read where it's supposed to? I don't want to start it and damage the engine.
It has been my experience that the oil level on the dip stick doesn't significantly drop after I've started and ran the car a bit. It sometimes takes a while for the oil to settle to the pan from the valve cover, but once I've given it that time, the level I see stays the same for a good long while.

It is possible that your oil sucker left a thick coating of oil in the dipstick tube and you are reading that oil coating the dipstick instead of the level in the pan. If this is the case, it should settle to the pan overnight and then you can get a decent reading.

It is also possible that you pumped out some other fluid (like maybe ATF) and added oil. Or even got fluids mixed around.

Either way, I wouldn't think of starting the car until I resolved the issue. If the engine oil really is that overfull, you'll probably cause damage of some sort when you start it. If it's overfull because some other fluid is now a gallon low, then you might cause damage there too.

It might be best to have a friend or nearby forum member stop by and help try to understand what happened.

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  #17  
Old 09-30-2008, 09:28 PM
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As long as the oil you removed was black as coal you got the engine oil. Transmission fluid would have been reddish.
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  #18  
Old 10-03-2008, 10:18 AM
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Yeah, I do know the difference between the oil stick and the tranny stick.

On another note, I was wondering what makes the oil in diesels so black? Technically, the oil isn't supposed to come into contact with the fuel, so it seems like it would have the same coloration as theoil in a vehicle which uses gasoline or any other fuel.
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  #19  
Old 10-03-2008, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee8go View Post
Yeah, I do know the difference between the oil stick and the tranny stick.

On another note, I was wondering what makes the oil in diesels so black? Technically, the oil isn't supposed to come into contact with the fuel, so it seems like it would have the same coloration as theoil in a vehicle which uses gasoline or any other fuel.
22:1 compression vs 8 ish:1 compression... um, yeah, the exhaust makes it past the rings, and soot contaminates the oil VERY QUICKLY...
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  #20  
Old 10-03-2008, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee8go View Post
Yeah, I do know the difference between the oil stick and the tranny stick.

On another note, I was wondering what makes the oil in diesels so black? Technically, the oil isn't supposed to come into contact with the fuel, so it seems like it would have the same coloration as theoil in a vehicle which uses gasoline or any other fuel.
http://www.kc-synthetic-oil.com/synthetic-diesel-oil.html

Quote:
Where does soot come from and how did it get in my oil?
Diesel pickup trucks and big rigs are typically running with four stroke compression ignition engines. These diesel engines run much higher compression ratios than similar gas engines, compressing to a pressure and temperature that causes auto ignition when the fuel is injected into the cylinder (no spark required!).

Diesel combustion is not as complete as gas combustion and incomplete combustion in a diesel engine produces soot.

A diesel typically has a peak cylinder pressure twice that of a gas engine. This is demanding on the piston rings to provide proper sealing, and understandably, diesel engines are more prone to piston blowby. Blowby is air, fuel, combustion products, and other contaminants leaking past the seal created by oil between the piston ring and the cylinder wall. Blowby contaminates the oil in the crankcase.

Diesel engines are prone to producing soot in the cylinder and diesel engines are more susceptible to piston blowby. Therefore good diesel oil must be designed to handle the soot and contaminants introduced by this blowby.
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  #21  
Old 10-03-2008, 10:44 AM
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Wow, 22:1! That's high. I knew diesels operated off of compression as opposed to ignition by spark, but I didn't know how high the compression ratio was.

Thanks.
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  #22  
Old 10-03-2008, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee8go View Post
Yeah, I do know the difference between the oil stick and the tranny stick.
I'm glad to hear you know enough not to have made the obvious mistakes Didn't mean to insult your intelligence or anything. Your choice of task, tool and resulting question triggered the new-mechanic alert in my head, and I answered from that (incorrect) assumption -- I really hate to see new mechanics fail because it is often their last attempt as well as their first.

So.. have you figured out yet why you got the high reading?
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  #23  
Old 10-03-2008, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee8go View Post
I changed the oil in my 300TD and after pumping out a gallon of oil (not sure how much it actually is supposed to hold), I put in a gallon.
Did you remove the oil filter before pumping? If the filter housing is not opened, the oil in the housing won't drain in the the crankcase.

If the suction line for the pump reaches to the bottom on the oil pan, you should be able to remove almost all the oil.
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  #24  
Old 10-03-2008, 12:15 PM
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Here is a good oil change link.

http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesdieseloilchange.htm
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  #25  
Old 10-03-2008, 02:40 PM
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Use only synthetic, Amsoil is clearly the best.

Lube her up good!
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  #26  
Old 10-04-2008, 10:26 AM
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Why not a topsider? Why would anybody want to crawl around under the car? I put mine on, pump it up good, sit back and drink a cup 'o coffee, pump it some more, pull the filter, get the new one ready, pump some more (sometimes if I'm in a hurry I use the shop vac instead of the pump but I like the quiet of the hand pump). Once I head the slurping noise I know the topsider has done its job so I put it aside and start adding oil.
I usually add 4 quarts and check the stick. There shouldn't be anything on the stick at that point. I add another one and check again. Add and check add and check. I HATE realizing I've added too much. Made that mistake once on a truck in my youth (Dad said it held 7 quarts, it really held 6, smoked like a coal plant until that quart burnt off) and I don't want to repeat it.
I've changed the oil in my cars many many times over the last 5 years but that doesn't mean I can't make a mistake...
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  #27  
Old 10-04-2008, 03:37 PM
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Why

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I find that they tend to consume more oil when they are near the high mark. I wouldn't drain any out.........it'll likely disappear.
I've noticed that with mine also so I keep it just above the low mark. Seems like the increased consumption is from leaking.

Any ideas why?

More blow by pressure due to less open space or . . . . . ?
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Last edited by Cr from Texas; 10-04-2008 at 03:38 PM. Reason: typo
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  #28  
Old 10-04-2008, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtludwig View Post
Why not a topsider? Why would anybody want to crawl around under the car? I put mine on, pump it up good, sit back and drink a ..
Yes, it is important to change the oil to refresh it, but another reason is to get rid of the sediment in the oil pan as well. Small dust particles from the air and metal from the engine form part of the sediment. When changing oil it is important to make sure that the oil is hot (for flow properties) and drained out of the bottom so it can carry the sediment out with it. When the oil is pumped out through the dipstick tube the sediment remains behind, to mix nicely with the new oil and continue flowing through the engine.

Have you ever drained used oil out of the drain pan to see how much sediment is left behind? You may be surprised to find out how much comes out of the oil pan with the used oil.
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  #29  
Old 10-04-2008, 09:26 PM
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On a 603 powered car without the belly pans you don't need to get under the car to drain the oil. Just reach under with a 13mm open end wrench, the plug is right their. With the belly pans, screw it, suck it out.
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  #30  
Old 10-04-2008, 09:48 PM
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It not that hard to lay down, reach under the car and turn a wrench.

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