1995 E300 front window fuse blows - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

freesoul · #1 10-05-2008, 09:20 PM

Greets,
Front windows- I've cleaned the console switches already. The fuse can blow anywhere from 30 minutes to 1 week although lately its becoming more often. Today it blew after running through a car wash and not even opening door.

I tried to check the door pillars on both sides and from the outside it seems good- its a PITA to get the rubber boot back on. How do I inspect the wires inside the sheathing? I've got the driver door panel off now- is it easier to inspect the wires with that off? Any other tips on where to look, its very frustrating replacing fuses all the time... Also I bumped the fuse up to a blue one, because the rear windows have a blue one. Is this correct?

Jeremy5848 · #2 10-05-2008, 09:41 PM

One of the "usual suspects" is the wire harness that passes from the rear door through the rubber sleeve into the B-pillar. The wires break after years of bending and can punch through the insulation, shorting to the chassis. This happened in my '87 and all W124 cars are supposedly the same -- others may be able to confirm whether this includes the 1995 model E300 Diesel.

First question is which fuse? According to the FSM, Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, Fuse "G" powers the left front and right rear windows; Fuse "H" powers the other two. BTW, both fuses are 16 Amp (Red).

To access the rear wiring, you must remove both the rear door inner panel and the corresponding B-pillar cover, with the front seatbelt sticking out of it. By disconnecting the wires from the rear window switch (make sure you have the color codes written down, although they should be marked in the lid of the plug that goes on the switch), you free up that end of the cable so you can pull the cable back through the rubber sleeve and leave it sticking out of the B-pillar so you can get at it. Repair any damaged wires, reassemble, and test. HINT: Attach a wire or string to the cable before pulling it out, so you have some way to pull the cable back into the door.

If the rear wiring harness is OK then it must be the front harness. The procedure is similar. Pull the door skin and the under-dash panel, then disconnect the wires in the door and pull the cable back through the sleeve to where you can get at it under the dash. Repair as needed and put it all back together.

There are other places where problems can occur but those two are the most likely.

Jeremy

freesoul · #3 10-06-2008, 08:19 AM

Thanks Jeremy, the fuse block diagram indicates front windows are on the same circuit, and rear windows have their own. The rear windows have the 25 fuse so when I noticed this (after quite a few fuse replacements) I was hoping this was my problem.

While I have the door panel off I'll do as you suggested and pull the wires out and examine them. It was wierd how it blew going thru the carwash- the windows worked when I went in then I tried to lower them and no go, makes me think moisture is getting in somewhere but the door is dry on the inside. My luck its probably the passenger door....

freesoul · #4 10-06-2008, 09:46 PM

Well I started to examine the wiring through the driver door, and thought how the hell am I going to do this.......

in desperation I looked again at the fuse block and noticed that the fuse I've been having trouble with was silver colored at the bottom, all the others are gold. I cleaned it off the best I could and I'll see how that goes. I do not want to get into the wiring thing.......

When I first bought the car in June it had a red fuse in there, it calls for a blue one which is what it has had for the past few weeks since I noticed that.

I will update this after a few weeks or if the problem resumes again..