My Very Own Fuel Station - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

WD8CDH · #16 10-07-2008, 08:03 AM

I would set it on a stand in a try to catch any drips and be able to inspect the bottom of the tank. Also make the stand high enough that you can put a fuel can or 5 gallon bucket under the drain. With the drain at the lowest spot, recirculate about 5 gallons of fuel thru the tank, into the bucket and back into the tank to flush the crud out. You can probably burn the flushed fuel if you let it settle for a while and refilter it.

For filtering, just use any large diesel filter that is available in your area, preferably one that you can get a 2 micron version. I use a filter head that I got from Northern Tools and usually use a Racor element from one of the local marine suppliers. Don't forget to install valves to isolate the filter for changing and make sure you have room for a bucket under the filter while you change it.

It would be best to have the drain on one end and the fueling outlet on the other end with the tank tilted toward the drain slightly.

What kind of fittings does the tank have and where are they located?

SwampYankee · #17 10-07-2008, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

I picked this setup up off of craigslist for $125. It is a 300 gal tank and electric pump. My plan is to buy diesel or biodiesel when the prices are (relatively) low and have it delivered to my house. Bulk fuel seems to be about $0.25/gal less than pump fuel around here. Now I just have to figure out how to plumb it up.

Does anybody have a recommendation for a good filter/water separator?

There is a bit of rust at the bottom of the tank, any suggestions on how to remove it, or should I just let it settle and let the filter take care of the rest?

Looks like a great storage tank for your off-road diesel for your tractor. wink, wink, nudge, nudge.

I had the same thought, our local bio-d distributor currently only does bulk deliveries so I was thinking of picking up a 275 gal. tote and putting it in my recently emptied garage.

C Sean Watts · #18 10-07-2008, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

I picked this setup up off of craigslist for $125. It is a 300 gal tank and electric pump. My plan is to buy diesel or biodiesel when the prices are (relatively) low and have it delivered to my house. Bulk fuel seems to be about $0.25/gal less than pump fuel around here. Now I just have to figure out how to plumb it up.

Does anybody have a recommendation for a good filter/water separator?

There is a bit of rust at the bottom of the tank, any suggestions on how to remove it, or should I just let it settle and let the filter take care of the rest?

Get it out. If you leave it, it will do nothing but clog filters (on the tank or car) and cause headaches. Microbe growth and sediment will be flushed by biodiesel. Remember rust is metallic in its nature and nothing short of an extreme in pH will dissolve it.

winmutt · #19 10-07-2008, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RML

Great idea. Is that sitting in an attached garage? I'd check up on the fire codes just to be on the safe side.

300Gal is the break point. He can store it anywhere he wants. It'd be the same if the tank was in a cummins in the bed.

bgkast · #20 10-07-2008, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WD8CDH

I would set it on a stand in a try to catch any drips and be able to inspect the bottom of the tank. Also make the stand high enough that you can put a fuel can or 5 gallon bucket under the drain. With the drain at the lowest spot, recirculate about 5 gallons of fuel thru the tank, into the bucket and back into the tank to flush the crud out. You can probably burn the flushed fuel if you let it settle for a while and refilter it.

For filtering, just use any large diesel filter that is available in your area, preferably one that you can get a 2 micron version. I use a filter head that I got from Northern Tools and usually use a Racor element from one of the local marine suppliers. Don't forget to install valves to isolate the filter for changing and make sure you have room for a bucket under the filter while you change it.

It would be best to have the drain on one end and the fueling outlet on the other end with the tank tilted toward the drain slightly.

What kind of fittings does the tank have and where are they located?

That recirculation flush is not a bad idea, I think I will try that.

The tank currently has a fill port and vent on the top and two outlets on the bottom, one on the side and one on the bottom. Unfortunately they are both on the same end of the tank. I'm planning to plug the outlet on the bottom, and use the one on the side for the outlet. The stand is a good idea, but I will have to make sure I make it strong enough to support 300 gal of diesel, that is 2200 lbs!

mobetta · #21 10-07-2008, 11:56 AM

the goldenrod plastic tank filters are only rated for gravity feed. not for pressure or suction. I would get a good filter head that fits a monster diesel filter- 2 mic.

if you have a home mortgage and Ins, they might not want to see more than 25 gal of flammable liquid stored on the property.

you might could call the local FD and see what they say- use an alias

freesoul · #22 10-07-2008, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwampYankee

Looks like a great storage tank for your off-road diesel for your tractor. wink, wink, nudge, nudge.

I had the same thought, our local bio-d distributor currently only does bulk deliveries so I was thinking of picking up a 275 gal. tote and putting it in my recently emptied garage.

If you use an IBC tote for storing biodiesel make sure you get a viton gasket for the bottom valve so you don't have fuel all over your garage after the old gasket degrades. Bay Area biodiesel has them for $5

COMP · #23 10-07-2008, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mobetta

the goldenrod plastic tank filters are only rated for gravity feed. not for pressure or suction. I would get a good filter head that fits a monster diesel filter- 2 mic.

if you have a home mortgage and Ins, they might not want to see more than 25 gal of flammable liquid stored on the property.

you might could call the local FD and see what they say- use an alias

spill or leak will get you

Newfiedogs · #24 10-07-2008, 04:52 PM

Get a good spill kit as mentioned before. The best thing to have on hand is a quick plug for your floor drain if you have one in your garage. Also a stick of quick epoxy putty(for cracked lines or fittings). I have been on fuel spills with tanks in the garage and they are very messy. You thought ice was slippery...try walking in spilled fuel! Where is your furnace?
Tracy

Bens lover · #25 10-07-2008, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

I picked this setup up off of craigslist for $125. It is a 300 gal tank and electric pump. My plan is to buy diesel or biodiesel when the prices are (relatively) low and have it delivered to my house. Bulk fuel seems to be about $0.25/gal less than pump fuel around here. Now I just have to figure out how to plumb it up.

Does anybody have a recommendation for a good filter/water separator?

There is a bit of rust at the bottom of the tank, any suggestions on how to remove it, or should I just let it settle and let the filter take care of the rest?

Great job.
I have one that I installed in my work shed in my back yard.Its a 250 gallon tank that was used for heating oil,you know the furnace thing.
But I installed it on its side at about 6 feet above ground on solid braces and installed a fuel filter and a vent pipe going through the roof,the filler pipe goes out the side of the shed so that my fuel supplier doesn't have to go inside the shed, a hose with a nozzle just like the service station has.Works great and all by gravity.Every other month I have my local heating oil supplier come around and he fills it right up.At this point and time its much cheaper then diesel fuel...Oupps did I say that out loud!

Hatterasguy · #26 10-07-2008, 06:57 PM

I have an un needed, FREE, 200 gallons of 6 month old, home heating oil I need to get rid of. Whats the best way to pump it into my off road vehicals?

COMP · #27 10-07-2008, 07:23 PM

put a wall around it that doesn't leak ,,a cover (no rain etc,) and have a pump (flammable safe) and you should be safe

Stevo · #28 10-07-2008, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

I have an un needed, FREE, 200 gallons of 6 month old, home heating oil I need to get rid of. Whats the best way to pump it into my off road vehicals?

Get a hand operated "barrel"pump with filter and water separator on the discharge side, should be available at your local bulk plant or harbor freight. Or elevate the tank and gravitate into your off road vehicles

my83300cd · #29 10-07-2008, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

The stand is a good idea, but I will have to make sure I make it strong enough to support 300 gal of diesel, that is 2200 lbs!

Our oil guy mentioned one day as he was tuning up the furnace that while the tank may have some rust, its usually the legs that cause problems- as above, 2200 lbs/4 legs=550 lbs a leg. Whats the X section of area of the leg actually supporting the tank? Suddenly you can get in large lbs per sq ft loading on the maybe rusted area of tank at the leg.

A cradle might be the way to go.

SwampYankee · #30 10-08-2008, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freesoul

If you use an IBC tote for storing biodiesel make sure you get a viton gasket for the bottom valve so you don't have fuel all over your garage after the old gasket degrades. Bay Area biodiesel has them for $5

That's probably an important piece of information right there!

Thanks.