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  #1  
Old 10-12-2008, 01:32 PM
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603 Vacuum question

I finally got back to my car after 2 months. Got my 87 300D back together. Put rings in it, and a cam, after I broke the original. I cannot remember where the blue/white/red line on the left side of the picture goes. I looked at the diagram on the forum, but it doesn't help. Also, there is a black line that goes down by the driver's side, down under the car. I cannot find where it goes, it originates up by the IP. I think it is for the tranny. (I don't think you can see it in the picture) Thanks to Sixto and Brian for getting me this far.
Brad
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  #2  
Old 10-12-2008, 01:42 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Looks a little different from what I remember in the SDL but I'll try to describe what I remember. Off the vacuum pump is a 5-way fitting. A line with blue stripe goes off to the air cleaner, to a vacuum amp and to the ARV on the turbo. A line with a red stripe also goes off to the air cleaner, to another vacuum amp and to the EGR valve by the turbo. There's a small black line that originates from the non-centered fitting on the vacuum amp ahead of the fuse box. There's a green cyliner about 2cm in diameter and 3cm long just downstream of the vacuum amp. The black line ducks under the cruise actuator, between the block and oil filter and continues to the vacuum modulator attached to the driver side of the transmission. The modulator is just ahead of where the shift rod attaches to the transmission.

I hope that helps.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 10-12-2008, 03:58 PM
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Thanks, that does help. The black line is the one I must've pulled off when I lifted the motor up to pull the oilpan. You described it exactly. I'll crawl under there and try to put it back on. I'm still stuck on the blue/wh/red, though. It looks like it had a rubber splice in it, but I don't have one in my parts. I'm gonna turn it over here in a minute and see if it runs.
Thanks again for all your help and expertise.
Brad
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  #4  
Old 10-12-2008, 04:35 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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I'd make sure everything on the IP side is hooked up. The most important lines IMO are for the transmission. The ARV and EGR lines are not critical to engine performance. In fact many folks extend diagnostics routines and drive offroad for the unintended benefit of having ARV and EGR disabled. Make sure the supply lines off the vacuum pump are capped if you decide to join us in the Darien Gap.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #5  
Old 10-12-2008, 05:05 PM
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It runs! After all those hours, broken cam and all, it cranked for a couple minutes, then fired. Sounds just like it always did. The thing is, I didn't mess with the IP, I'm still 23degrees ATDC. I drove it around the block. Doesn't want to shift with the line not plugged in. Plus, I still have to put the sway bar back on. You have to pull that to get the pan off. One question: how should I break it in? All I did was ring it, well, and the new cam. I'd like to, at some point, yank the EGR and the other unnecessary stuff. Also, is it easier to put that tranny line back on from the top, thru the console, or from underneath? Thanks again for all the help, expertise and advice.
Brad
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2008, 05:23 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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How to attach the transmission vacuum line depends on where it's disconnected. If it's disconnected at the modulator, you'll have to attach it from under the car. Or maybe you have a really long arm and eyes on your hand It doesn't go inside the car and there's no access from the cabin. Get the front on ramps and look for the modulator. Here's a picture from DaveM's gallery. You can see the black hose -

http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/tranny3.jpg

Not shifting sounds more like the kickdown cable needs adjustement. The modulator controls how hard or soft the shift is, not when it takes place.

Break-in routine is almost a matter of preference. I try to not load or lug the engine or stay at one rpm for hours on end. I avoid synthetic lubricants for 5-10K miles. Attach a magnet to the drain plug, assuming it's too late to use a magnetic drain plug, to collect metal shavings.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #7  
Old 10-12-2008, 05:26 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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As for the kickdown cable, the basic setting is the cusp of having no slack in the cable. As you tug on the socket, you'll take up slack then start to feel resistance or tension. Use the adjustment locknut against the bracket so the socket meets the ball right at the inflection of slack and tension.

And check tranny fluid level!

Sixto
87 300D
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  #8  
Old 10-12-2008, 07:07 PM
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Thanks for the pic. That is the line that is disconnected. I know where it is, now, right in front of the 5 or 6 pin plug on the side of the tranny. It got pulled out, too, when lifting the motor for pan removal. I was wrong on the shifting, it seems to shift better with the black line unplugged. However, I now have no air, heat or blower. Don't know if that is related. You are right on checking the tranny fluid, since pulling the radiator involves pulling tranny cooling lines and you lose a lot of fluid doing that.
Thanks,
Brad
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  #9  
Old 10-12-2008, 07:30 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Sounds like you blew the ACC fuse. It's odd that you don't have heat because in the absence of ACC system power the monovalve stays wide open. You'll get a draft ot hot air from the defroster vents. ACC vent selection requires engine vacuum to the ACC solenoid manifold. There's a line from the 5-way splitter though a yellow(?) checkvalve on the forward bulkhead (the one ahead of the brake master cylinder). Two lines come out the back side. One goes into the cabin to the ACC, the other goes to the vacuum reservoir in the right fender.

When you get the engine sorted out, try these steps to get the tranny to shift properly -

http://www.mbz.org/articles/transmission/adjust/

Sixto
87 300D
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  #10  
Old 10-12-2008, 07:57 PM
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There may be heat, I don't know, but I have no blower motor. I didn't explain myself very well. I'll mess w/ the transmission once I get a chance. Thanks for the vacuum instructions.
Thanks again,
Brad
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