Well, I'm back where I started on my OM606
 

three weeks ago I was attempting to chase away an air leak and replace a faulty SOV. I was doing this because of bad hesitation, poor power and delayed shutdown. Now, after having replaced all the O rings, the K40 relay, all return lines, the SOV and retreiving something I dropped into the valve cover :o I now have a car that shuts down slowly and still hesitates. The hesitation is much better though. I think it may just be residual air from removing all the fuel lines and injector lines to do the work. But I still have the P0215 code (faulty SOV) and poor shutdown. Now what do I do? This car had the SOV replaced in January after exhibiting the same symptoms. That time it fixed it. Now I have a new SOV and the same old problem. What else could cause the delayed shutdown and throw the code?

Easy to install fuel lines incorrectly causing that problem.

Take a close look at the lines & see if you have then installed incorrectly.

I will investigate that asap. I don't think I did it wrong as I did them one at a time. But I also dropped part of the ccv plumbing down inside the valve cover...:eek: So I suppose anything is possible. Thanks for the advice.

The fuels lines are routed correctly according to the diagram so I can rule that out.

Over the past few days the SOV problem has resolved itself. Shuts off properly now and no more CEL. Swapped K40 with a good one and no change. Changed all filters, still hesitates, surges and lacks power.

It was cold enough to frost this morning and the car ran better, not perfect but noticeably better.

Now I get two CEL's P0100 and P0400. Checked the EGR hoses, they were ok. Could the P0100 be a bad MAF and that is causing my poor performance, or maybe the poor boost part? Any help is appreciated.

You know, I've had my car apart about 3 weeks now. During that time, I replaced some more of the O-rings. Now, when I start and then try to shut it off, it revs up then stops and sets a code...

Crap...

I replaced the SOV and fuel pump O-rings this time around after having replaced all the others up top (the ones I could get to without taking the manifold off). Everything was fine before then...

Thats what mine was doing the brief rev then off. Don't know why it doesn't do it any more, maybe air trapped in it. I drove it at least 400mi. before it righted itself. Not sure how long air can stay in there when it gets there after we open the fuel system. I had all the injector lines off too.

I just know it was a bugger to get re-started. It took literally DAYS of cranking: Every evening, get home from work, crank 10 sec, let it sit 30, crank 10, sit 30, battery dead after about 30 min. of this. On the charger overnight, repeat the next day...

I wonder if there' s a way to adapt an older style fuel pump with a primer on it... :thinking:

Finally some success. I cleaned the MAF with electrical switch cleaner and my P0100 code has gone, at least for the last 10 minutes. We'll see what happens tomorrow. Now the only code left is P0400 "EGR flow......." I tried swapping the vacuum actuator with the one on the turbo. I cleared the code, but it came back in about a minute. Does this code also limit boost? The car is still sluggish. Anyone got any suggestions?

I ahvent had the PO400 on mine so can't answer the boost question.

Do check the vacuum line from the transducer to the EGR under the IM. Sometimes they come off or are reinstalled loose.

I checked them the other day but not since I was messing with the transducer. I just ran out and checked them again...unfortunately they were still connected. Would the EGR being dirty cause this? I looked at it when I had the IM off last week, it didn't look too bad, it wasn't choked with carbon. I know the feed pipe (proper name?) that carries the exhaust is connected correctly because I took about an hour to do it. The connection between the intake pipe and the egr may be suspect though. Had a difficult time aligning them, the bolt did not want to go on easily. If this were loose I would leak boost correct? Could that cause the EGR code? I appreciate all the help.

Muleears.....I don't think the boost pipe going to the EGR would have an effect unless it was left disconnected. A small leak around that collar clamp should not cause a code.....I can feel a slight leak around mine. Either the EGR vacuum solenoid is bad or the vacuum connections to or from the solenoid are leaking. Try clipping the old ends off the vacuum hoses and refitting them which should give a tighter fit.
Hope that helps!