Still new here, but have decided that I am going to go for a 240D. I have it down to some "projects" that have a 4-speed and a very clean automatic.

I have collected your advice on what to check out, and I have imported some of my buying experience from the world of volvos. With that, I came up with the following. I like to take this, and a clipboard, when I test drive.

Will you experts help me revise it, and you others, feel free to use it? Please feel free for comment on which are more important, and which are less, and I will try to work that into a final version for when I go driving. Thanks in advance.

- Maintenance Records? Repair records are very important.
- Ownership History, was the car in the rust belt much of its life?
- Has it ever been stored? How long? Inside or outside?
- Body Rust,

o floor boards
o under rear carpets
o around mounts for shocks.
o Under/behind battery tray, drain holes and into firewall?
o Under seats

- Paint

o Original, check for color transitions in engine compartment
o Uneven coloring

- Reported MPG, claims of 35mpg reflect poorly on the seller.
- Are many small things undone, reflects poorly on maintenance history.
- Oil consumption
- Cold Start. How long does it take? After some driving, turn off and back on quickly.
- Fluid Leaks.
- Clean Brake Fluid in the master cylinder
- Primary Clear Filter, black reflects poorly on maintenance history.
- Clean Transmission Fluid
- Timing Chain Replaced?
- Compression, even across the cylinders?
- A/C blowing cold?
- Oil Pressure – Gauge should be pinned when driving
- Transmission smooth Firm, not jerky, shifting (automatic)
- Check for excessive play in steering. Steering should crisp and the handling should be tight. No squeaks.
- Inspect door seals, hood and trunk seals; look for moisture/water
- Check drainage spots, hood, sunroof (if applicable) rear drains in trunk.
- Separated Floor mats may evidence previous water...check these while you are checking the floors.
- check out the control arm/suspension bushings- if they are dry rotted
- check out the steering damper/idle arm bushings/front suspension
- CV boots on rear axles, breaks? Leaks?
- Drive Shaft

o front and rear connectors (flex disk), are cracks forming?
o Is the center bearing rusted or torn up?

- When running, pull the oil fill cap off, and notice the amount of smoke blowing out. Put the cap loosely on, see how much it rattles, or if it blows off altogether...
- Speedometers should have an aluminum dot in the center on all three gauges
- Get an opinion from a diesel technician!

.... add to rust check - under battery tray... around body drain holes there and even on other side too. See how bad it is.

Added on edit... I see you already thought of this and I missed seeing it. Good to go.

One thing is to make sure you DO get a cold start. Pop the hood and lay your hand on it to verify and see if you can go in the cool of the morning.

__________________
1983 300D-Turbo - Deep Blue w Palomino MB Tex (total loss in fire 1/5/09 RIP)
1995 E320 W124 Polar White/Grey Mushroom MB Tex
2005 F150 Supercrew - Arizona Beige - Lear topper
1985 Piaggio Vespa T5 - Black and Chrome

www.cphilip.com

Working odo is not a requirement, especially if you got #1 (mileage records). It's an easy fix!

Another thing I did was to check the primary (clear) filter. If it is black as night out, the car has been neglected.

Also check the floor mats. If they have been wet they will separate- you can look for rust in the floor pans at the same time. Indicates leaks

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

Updated appropriately...

I saw what I consider to be the number one most important issue to be only casually mentioned in the list, oil consumption.

You have to focus on the owners face while you ask the question; "does it use any oil." You then have to judge whether or not he's lying. If he uses wimp words, like "not much," or "not really," just walk away.

You don't want to buy an oil sucking 123 diesel. If you can get one that is not using much oil, and take care of it with frequent hot oil and filter changes, you will get many miles of useful service. If it's using more than about a quart in 1,000 miles, you will be spending big bucks on it before too long.

My $0.02,

Start the car, let it warm up, raise the hood, remove the oil cap from valve cover, revvvv up the engine and watch for the blow by, if it blows oil above the valve cover you do not want that car.

Vahe
240D 77

Forgive me being naive, but what does this blow by signify?

Mostly worn rings.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

One thing I always forget to check here in SoCal is weatherstripping. Of course you can replace it, but it's another thing to point out to the seller to get the price down.

Also make sure both original keys are included and they work in all locks.