Brake caliper bleeder nipple broke off? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

qwerty · #16 10-15-2008, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Hard to believe it didn't leak.

As long as it was tight when the "head" broke off, it shouldn't leak.

BodhiBenz1987 · #17 10-15-2008, 11:45 AM

Thanks guys ... I'll probably try an easy out next week. As Tom suggested, it isn't a problem I need to solve right away ... just need to do the brake fluid at some point as a good maintenence practice. What I need to do more immediately is change the front brake pads ... no big deal, if I could get the wheels off. But GoodYear torqued the lugnuts on so tight they won't come off for anything (my dad gave it a try for me and the bit actually broke off the breaker bar, lug didn't budge). I feel like going to GoodYear and telling them to take the lugnuts off and put them back on with reasonable torque, like they should have done in the first place. It's annoying that I tried to do two simple jobs yesterday (change brake fluid and change front pads) and could not achieve either one because of stupid things professionals did. Just needed to vent a little ...

rs899 · #18 10-15-2008, 11:49 AM

You should do something about the lug nuts. Perhaps they would rather receive a pleasant call from you on the side of the road with a flat would get their attention? Morons.

BodhiBenz1987 · #19 10-15-2008, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwerty

As long as it was tight when the "head" broke off, it shouldn't leak.

Yep, looks like it didn't leak at all. For one, my brake fluid level didn't go down in the resevoir. And there's no sign of leaked fluid on the caliper.

Now, I suppose when/if I can get this out, brake fluid will go everywhere? Just need to know what I'm preparing for.

rs899 · #20 10-15-2008, 11:51 AM

Brake fluid will drip out. You might be able to slow it down by putting a piece of saran wrap under the reservoir cap.

qwerty · #21 10-15-2008, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rs899

You might be able to slow it down by putting a piece of saran wrap under the reservoir cap.

That works really well.

JimmyL · #22 10-15-2008, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987

It's annoying that I tried to do two simple jobs yesterday (change brake fluid and change front pads) and could not achieve either one because of stupid things professionals did. Just needed to vent a little ...

You've seen the guys that change tires in these places. Still happy with your terminology above???

The thing that bothers me is that at some point of over-tightening, either the threads of the lug nuts or the threads in the hub get compromised a bit.....

BodhiBenz1987 · #23 10-15-2008, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

You've seen the guys that change tires in these places. Still happy with your terminology above???

The thing that bothers me is that at some point of over-tightening, either the threads of the lug nuts or the threads in the hub get compromised a bit.....

I was going to put quotes around "professionals," but I was trying to be nice.

The specs I have say 110nm of torque for the lugnuts, which is (please correct me if I'm wrong) only like 80 lb/ft ... but these guys put them on with an impact wrench that probably puts out 300 lb/ft. Close enough, I guess ...

Hatterasguy · #24 10-15-2008, 01:26 PM

The local Town Fair got tired of getting sued over broken/over tightend lug nuts so now they force the wrench monkey's to use torque wrench's.

#25 10-16-2008, 12:49 PM

Just use an ease out and get it out. I would make sure you have a new one on hand before you dig out the old one though.

gsxr · #26 10-16-2008, 03:15 PM

No need to replace calipers unless the Easy-Out fails to work. These things are not usually tightened down very much, which helps. Soak it with good penetrant at least a day before you try the Easy-Out. A little heat (blue wrench) wouldn't hurt if it doesn't want to break loose. I've done a couple of these and they've always come out without much hassle. Note that a new bleed screw is something like $7-$10 (each!) at the dealer, so try to snag one from a Pick-n-Pull if possible.

Oh, and after you pressure bleed the brakes, put new rubber caps on all 4 bleed screws. The caps are cheap from the dealer, maybe a buck each? Cheap insurance, and it keeps dirt out of the hollow screw.

JimmyL · #27 10-16-2008, 10:06 PM

You are on my "list" for now Cecily!

I have spent the last 2 days fighting brake caliper bleed nipples!

Coincidence? I think not.........

t walgamuth · #28 10-17-2008, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shingleback

Yes, but without the cap water gets inside the hole and rust begins to form along the bottom of the bleeder screw; this spreads to the threads eventually.

OK. Never thought of that.

omegabenz · #29 10-21-2008, 03:27 AM

it more likely rusted shut than overtightened it. I bet that it broke trying to loosen it on the last brake bleed job.

This happened to me at a very unoportune time in the past helping out a friend. We noticed this problem, but already had the brakes torn apart. I found a machine shop opened on a saturday and we had him fixture it in the mill and drilled out the bleeder valve. Needless to say, I now keep on hand extra bleeder valves (which can be unique to the vehicle). Best of luck.

gsxr · #30 10-21-2008, 01:33 PM

If you're having trouble with a tight bleeder screw, or it's obviously corroded, and/or you've never opened up that particular screw in the past... try soaking it at least overnight with a good penetrating oil. It can really help.