I haven't fixed the bleed screw yet, but did finally get around to breaking loose each lugnut one at a time with an impact wrench, and putting them back in with correct torque. At least now I'll be able to get the wheels off when needed. Right now it looks like I may not have another day off from work until Nov. 2, unless the Phillies sweep or get swept in the World Series ... so the suspense will have to go on as far as my caliper goes (overtime pay will come in handy though, if I do need new calipers).

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

I broke one off in my 1983 240D. Original calipers, plenty of miles and wear and tear as evidenced by the boots being pretty rough looking on the piston to caliper area, with some pretty heavy looking corrosion on the outer part of the pistons, heat shields disintegrated, etc. So, I elected to "splurge" for rebuilt units from my local European car parts outlet. I think they were something like $80 each.

So, if the car is a daily driver (my kids are still in college and still drive the car daily), and it still has 25 year old, or older calipers, it may be worth the added cost to put a rebuilt set in - nothing worse than a weekend fixing something on the brakes only to find out a month later another problem.....

Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Cecilly

There is a forum member here named "Hanno" who is parting out an 88 300E, I'm betting he could set you up with bleed screws and/or a used caliper if needed. He is located in Delaware and is a gentleman and a scholar - drop him a PM if you are looking for used parts.

__________________
98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k)
13 GLK250 (135k)
06 E320CDI (323K)
16 C300 (62K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

now ya'll have got me scared to do my brake this weekend. What can i do to avoid breaking the bleeder screw off?

Should I use MB brake fluid?

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Soak it good the day before or more, then put on a 10 mm IIRC box end and begin by just wiggleing it back and forth until you feel it give a little. If it does give, not soak it good and come back another day.

Careful removal methods will result in very rare breakage of a bleeder valve. I have not broken any in a long long time.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

mwuhahaha... I just found a local source for aero-kroil... no broken bleeders for me!!!

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Mine on the W123 were 8mm and I used a 6 point socket to brake it loose originally...

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

A good penetrating oil as others have noted, left to soak into the crevice and first couple of threads will help. I use a box end wrench, and I believe the factory size is 9mm. I once wrote up a detailed procedure for this on a W123. But, once you break the bleed screw loose, I recommend a good anti-seize lube dabbed around the bleed screw between it and the caliper body before running the screw back into the caliper, then putting the rubber cap back on - keeps rust down, and keeps the road debris and water spray from washing away the anti-seize. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

i'll soak them in PB blater a day or so before I do the brakes.

Also I need to change the fluid, mine looks like motor oil right now. Should I use MB fluid from the dealer? Or what should I get from NAPA?

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

No need to get brake fluid from the dealership. Officially, any DOT-4 fluid is acceptable. Personally, I recommend Valvoline SynPower brake fluid as the best bang for the buck (highest boiling points at the lowest cost). It should be available at most McParts for something like $6/quart.

The next step up is Ate SuperBlue (or Type 200 Gold), at twice the price... approx $12-$14/liter. Beyond that, there's Motul RBF600 at roughly $30/liter; but it's serious overkill unless you're on the racetrack with an E63 AMG or something...