Brake caliper bleeder nipple broke off?
 

I went to attempt a brake bleed this morning and couldn't find the bleeder nipple on the left rear caliper ... I thought it was because I was dense, but it turns out it's just not there ... there's just a hole where it used to be. Other three calipers all have the bleed nipple, but I'm not just going to bleed 3/4 of the system. What does one do in this event? :(

May have to use an ease out, or worst case, replace the caliper.

Expect to buy a caliper,your chances of removing that broken bleeder without damaging the threads or seat are very slim.Important thing is make sure the little rubber caps are on all the bleeder screws when you finish the job,the chances of the bleeder screw rusting into the caliper is MUCH greater if those caps are left off. Don

None of the screws have rubber caps on them now. Last flush was done by a mechanic in the last town I lived in. Maybe he left them off. He never mentioned anything about a broken bleed screw, but it could have happened since then (or he could have broken it off, for all I know, and just not said anything). Guess I'll take it to my current (very trusted) indy and see what he thinks. Looks like it's pretty rusted into the caliper, so I'm guessing it's curtains for the whole caliper.:rolleyes:

If you are going to replae one, replace the one on the other side as well to keep the wear "Balanced". IE: Right front is replaced, the replace the left front as well.

I solved this problem.....
 

I had a similar situation a a year or so ago.....what I did....

I ordered 2 Bleeder Screws, from Phil
I also ordered a caliper rebuild kit, from Phil
I also replaced the Brake Lines while doing this project...stainless by "Goodridge"

I removed the caliper from the car....chucked it in a vise, and used a 4 fluted easy out.....and the broken part came out relatively easily.....

bear in mind that the "bleed screw" is in all actuality a valve....so once you move it off of it's seat....it comes out very easy.....

There are a couple of different rear brake calipers....mine are Girling....but you need to identify your caliper before ordering the rebuild kit.....

SB :D

Note to critics: As I remember a Caliper Kit does both sides front or rear....my car has ATE on front and Girling on rear......and I rebuilt all 4 corners of the car....and I installed the "high test' stainless braided lines all way round as well.....and of course new pads while I had it all apart......

The bleeder nipple is hollow, right? So right there you have solved one of the stickiest problems with using an easy-out, i.e. drilling a nice hole in the center.

My suggestion is to get a set of reverse drill bits from harbor freight or similar and just drill out the nipple with successive larger bits. You will probably reach a point where the nipple will back out as you are drilling it. Hit it with Kroil or similar and heat cycle it a few times with a propane torch and an ice cube before drilling.

It'll come out.

Rgds,
Chris W.
BTDT

Same thing happened to me. I just tightened it down too much after bleeding the brakes and the damn thing snapped off!

I took the caliper off and took it to a machine shop and had them back it out for me. Cost me 20 bucks and I replaced it with a bleeder nipple from my old caliper, works great!

I'd order two rebuilt calipers from Phil or a local Autoparts store. Carquest can get them.

I used the left hand drill bit method (since the centering hole is in there already), using Snap On extractor kit, and the remnant of the bleeder screw just walked out thanks to the drill bit.

Both sides of the caliper, not both sides of the car. At least not that I have ever seen.

I don't think it just broke off when you rolled over a bump. Methinks the last mechanic who bled the brakes tightened it up just a hair too much, then...........
Hard to believe it didn't leak. :confused::confused:
Do you have any old pics that might show whether or not it's been broken off for awhile? Maybe those old pics of your rear frame crack or something similar.
Wouldn't matter really, just a curiosity thing......

The benz calipers are very high quality. If a numb nuts does not break off the bleed nipples they last a very long time. I would try getting the broken bleeder out before buying a new caliper, but I don't depend on my car as my sole source of transportation.

There is also the possibility of drilling the bleeder completely out and installing a bleeder repair kit. I had my favorite machinist do this on my old Ferrari.

It consists of a complete new bleeder with the seat which is installed by drilling your old one completely out and tapping the hole with a pipe thread die and screwing in a whole new bleeder assembly. I simply removed the brake cylinder and took it to his shop and watched while he did it.

The cost may not be much less than a rebuilt caliper, but if the broken stub can be gotten out it should be a good deal less.

Since you don't report any braking problems at the moment it is not a problem which you are forced to solve immediately.

BTW the rubber caps don't protect the threads, just the nipple opening.

Tom W

Yes, but without the cap water gets inside the hole and rust begins to form along the bottom of the bleeder screw; this spreads to the threads eventually.

I had the same problem and attempted the easy-out solution and made things much worse. The metal used in the easy out is very hard but also brittle, and it snapped off in the bleeder in mine. Don't even think about trying to drill that out when it happens. I would have a back-up plan in mind (maybe even a caliper on stand-by-You could return it if not used). I ended up having to replace the caliper. And have since replaced the soft brake lines also, probably would have been easier to do at one time, but that would have required foresight. Alex

As long as it was tight when the "head" broke off, it shouldn't leak.

Thanks guys ... I'll probably try an easy out next week. As Tom suggested, it isn't a problem I need to solve right away ... just need to do the brake fluid at some point as a good maintenence practice. What I need to do more immediately is change the front brake pads ... no big deal, if I could get the wheels off. But GoodYear torqued the lugnuts on so tight they won't come off for anything (my dad gave it a try for me and the bit actually broke off the breaker bar, lug didn't budge). I feel like going to GoodYear and telling them to take the lugnuts off and put them back on with reasonable torque, like they should have done in the first place. It's annoying that I tried to do two simple jobs yesterday (change brake fluid and change front pads) and could not achieve either one because of stupid things professionals did. Just needed to vent a little ...

You should do something about the lug nuts. Perhaps they would rather receive a pleasant call from you on the side of the road with a flat would get their attention? Morons.

Yep, looks like it didn't leak at all. For one, my brake fluid level didn't go down in the resevoir. And there's no sign of leaked fluid on the caliper.

Now, I suppose when/if I can get this out, brake fluid will go everywhere? Just need to know what I'm preparing for.:o

Brake fluid will drip out. You might be able to slow it down by putting a piece of saran wrap under the reservoir cap.

That works really well.

You've seen the guys that change tires in these places. Still happy with your terminology above??? ;)
:D

The thing that bothers me is that at some point of over-tightening, either the threads of the lug nuts or the threads in the hub get compromised a bit.....

I was going to put quotes around "professionals," but I was trying to be nice.;) The specs I have say 110nm of torque for the lugnuts, which is (please correct me if I'm wrong) only like 80 lb/ft ... but these guys put them on with an impact wrench that probably puts out 300 lb/ft. Close enough, I guess ... :rolleyes:

The local Town Fair got tired of getting sued over broken/over tightend lug nuts so now they force the wrench monkey's to use torque wrench's.

Just use an ease out and get it out. I would make sure you have a new one on hand before you dig out the old one though.

No need to replace calipers unless the Easy-Out fails to work. These things are not usually tightened down very much, which helps. Soak it with good penetrant at least a day before you try the Easy-Out. A little heat (blue wrench) wouldn't hurt if it doesn't want to break loose. I've done a couple of these and they've always come out without much hassle. Note that a new bleed screw is something like $7-$10 (each!) at the dealer, so try to snag one from a Pick-n-Pull if possible.

Oh, and after you pressure bleed the brakes, put new rubber caps on all 4 bleed screws. The caps are cheap from the dealer, maybe a buck each? Cheap insurance, and it keeps dirt out of the hollow screw.

:stuart:

You are on my "list" for now Cecily! :mad: :mad: I have spent the last 2 days fighting brake caliper bleed nipples! :mad::mad:
Coincidence? I think not.........

:musicbooh

OK. Never thought of that.

it more likely rusted shut than overtightened it. I bet that it broke trying to loosen it on the last brake bleed job.

This happened to me at a very unoportune time in the past helping out a friend. We noticed this problem, but already had the brakes torn apart. I found a machine shop opened on a saturday and we had him fixture it in the mill and drilled out the bleeder valve. Needless to say, I now keep on hand extra bleeder valves (which can be unique to the vehicle). Best of luck.

If you're having trouble with a tight bleeder screw, or it's obviously corroded, and/or you've never opened up that particular screw in the past... try soaking it at least overnight with a good penetrating oil. It can really help.

:balloon2:

:eek::D

I haven't fixed the bleed screw yet, but did finally get around to breaking loose each lugnut one at a time with an impact wrench, and putting them back in with correct torque.:D At least now I'll be able to get the wheels off when needed. Right now it looks like I may not have another day off from work until Nov. 2, unless the Phillies sweep or get swept in the World Series ... so the suspense will have to go on as far as my caliper goes (overtime pay will come in handy though, if I do need new calipers).

I broke one off in my 1983 240D. Original calipers, plenty of miles and wear and tear as evidenced by the boots being pretty rough looking on the piston to caliper area, with some pretty heavy looking corrosion on the outer part of the pistons, heat shields disintegrated, etc. So, I elected to "splurge" for rebuilt units from my local European car parts outlet. I think they were something like $80 each.

So, if the car is a daily driver (my kids are still in college and still drive the car daily), and it still has 25 year old, or older calipers, it may be worth the added cost to put a rebuilt set in - nothing worse than a weekend fixing something on the brakes only to find out a month later another problem.....

Jim

Cecilly

There is a forum member here named "Hanno" who is parting out an 88 300E, I'm betting he could set you up with bleed screws and/or a used caliper if needed. He is located in Delaware and is a gentleman and a scholar - drop him a PM if you are looking for used parts.

now ya'll have got me scared to do my brake this weekend. What can i do to avoid breaking the bleeder screw off?

Should I use MB brake fluid?

Soak it good the day before or more, then put on a 10 mm IIRC box end and begin by just wiggleing it back and forth until you feel it give a little. If it does give, not soak it good and come back another day.

Careful removal methods will result in very rare breakage of a bleeder valve. I have not broken any in a long long time.

mwuhahaha... I just found a local source for aero-kroil... no broken bleeders for me!!!

Mine on the W123 were 8mm and I used a 6 point socket to brake it loose originally...

A good penetrating oil as others have noted, left to soak into the crevice and first couple of threads will help. I use a box end wrench, and I believe the factory size is 9mm. I once wrote up a detailed procedure for this on a W123. But, once you break the bleed screw loose, I recommend a good anti-seize lube dabbed around the bleed screw between it and the caliper body before running the screw back into the caliper, then putting the rubber cap back on - keeps rust down, and keeps the road debris and water spray from washing away the anti-seize. Jim

i'll soak them in PB blater a day or so before I do the brakes.

Also I need to change the fluid, mine looks like motor oil right now. Should I use MB fluid from the dealer? Or what should I get from NAPA?

No need to get brake fluid from the dealership. Officially, any DOT-4 fluid is acceptable. Personally, I recommend Valvoline SynPower brake fluid as the best bang for the buck (highest boiling points at the lowest cost). It should be available at most McParts for something like $6/quart.

The next step up is Ate SuperBlue (or Type 200 Gold), at twice the price... approx $12-$14/liter. Beyond that, there's Motul RBF600 at roughly $30/liter; but it's serious overkill unless you're on the racetrack with an E63 AMG or something...

:nuke: