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  #16  
Old 10-15-2008, 07:24 AM
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The hardest part is getting the seal and trim over the glass without breaking it. Once you have it assembled use plastic coated clothesline or wire. Lube it up good with dish soap , windex or silicone. Spend some time making sure you have it centered (very important) and start at the bottom, making sure it is seated well down along the pinchweld. You can shift it around a little as you work to keep it centered if you keep it lubed. Honestly, I have done 2 W123 rears and a W116 and didn't have any issues with aftermarket seals. This will take you all day for your first one- by the time you do your 5th you get it down to 2 hrs.

Rick

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  #17  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:21 AM
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Always remember.

Always remember - A good glass man doesn't even OWN a screwdriver.

SteveM.
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  #18  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:35 AM
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The seal goes on the window, then the trim goes in the seal, THEN the whole unit gets pulled in place with a rope.

It sounds like you were trying to get the lock trim in place after the window was in the car. If you need to hammer on anything while doing this, something isn't right ... use more windex to keep everything well lubed.

Here's the thread jt20 was referring to. It's for my quarter window which is different as far as the lock trim (plus no curved glass), but the rope technique is the same.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/201820-300td-quarter-window-removal-w-pics-post1937709.html?posted=1#post1937709

I also recommend only using OE seals. They cost a bit more, but save you time and trouble. Plus a proper fit means it requires less sealant to eliminate leaks.
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  #19  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
The seal goes on the window, then the trim goes in the seal, THEN the whole unit gets pulled in place with a rope.

It sounds like you were trying to get the lock trim in place after the window was in the car. If you need to hammer on anything while doing this, something isn't right ... use more windex to keep everything well lubed.

Here's the thread jt20 was referring to. It's for my quarter window which is different as far as the lock trim (plus no curved glass), but the rope technique is the same.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/201820-300td-quarter-window-removal-w-pics-post1937709.html?posted=1#post1937709

I also recommend only using OE seals. They cost a bit more, but save you time and trouble. Plus a proper fit means it requires less sealant to eliminate leaks.
This is exactly right. I tried to get the trim in after installing the window. All I accomplished is bending the trim. I ended up taking out the whole thing and redoing it with junkyard donor trim.
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  #20  
Old 10-15-2008, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
The seal goes on the window, then the trim goes in the seal, THEN the whole unit gets pulled in place with a rope.
X2, thats how it works on the W126 to. Than wrap some very strong string around the seal and put it in.

OE seals are the only ones worth buying, aftermarket are junk.
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  #21  
Old 10-15-2008, 08:58 PM
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Lots of dish washing detergent,in the channel with the rope,on the flange,on the seal its messy but it works.Just in case you didnt get it at the beginning,LOTS of dish washing detergent! Don
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  #22  
Old 10-15-2008, 09:22 PM
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my 126

I took my 85 300SD to Safelight two weeks ago for a $280. rear window replacement. They had the incorrect glass three times so far and tell me that the window is not available except from MB for $950. + and now I have a car without a rear glass and I am pissed.

Ditch the 3-M and go with the soft stuff that MB recommends then use a ratchet strap around the C post to hold the glass in contact with the frame. Ease the gasket in with lots of soap or GO-JO and keep pushing it into position side to side. do not hit it and if you get frustrated go away for a while and take a breather.

Good luck and wish me the same
Robert
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  #23  
Old 10-15-2008, 10:34 PM
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Take the NEW window, seal, and all to Safelite and pay them to install it! pain the wallet, but better than pain in the A$$ and another broken windshield!
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  #24  
Old 10-16-2008, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chadahar View Post
Take the NEW window, seal, and all to Safelite and pay them to install it! pain the wallet, but better than pain in the A$$ and another broken windshield!
Used Safelite to replace my windshield, 96 e300d, and was impressed with the speed and quality of their work. Forty five minutes...start to finish, and it looked like they never even touched the car. All decals removed from old windshield and installed on the new one. Cost $235 installed, using their own manufactured glass. Good luck

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