New owner! 1987 300D - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BLACKCDI · #16 10-20-2008, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wilson

I was quoted from the dealer last week, $375 for the front pan. WOW!!
And all I needed was new foam absorbent material. Not available by itself.

Should i call some junk yards?

BLACKCDI · #17 10-20-2008, 01:32 PM

Can anyone tell me the MB part number for the belly pans?

Jeremy5848 · #18 10-20-2008, 01:37 PM

You can get the part number off of the Mercedes web site for free.

http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/welcome.jsp

You have to "buy" a subscription but it's free for US residents – they ask for a credit card number as proof that you are a US resident. Some folks don't like giving out their number but I don't see it as a big risk.

Once you have a subscription, you can look up the part numbers for any part of any Benz.

Jeremy

2.5Turbo · #19 10-20-2008, 01:43 PM

124 520 50 23 front, 124 520 34 24 rear.

Jeremy5848 · #20 10-20-2008, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLACKCDI

Awesome, thanks for explanation! Does Brian still offer the EGR blocking kit? I have some oil leakage from the top of the intake manifold(at the gasket) I should remove the intake and clean it i take it?

Yes, there is a gasket that you can buy at any Mercedes dealer for a few dollars. It's a simple gasket and you could make one easily – buy a sheet of gasket material at an auto parts store and trace the old one, cut it out with scissors/Exacto(R) knife, etc.

Brian should still have block-off kits, shoot him a PM. The easiest way to get started is to put a BB in the vacuum line at the EGR valve. That will prevent the valve from opening. Once that is done, you can remove the crossover and then the intake manifold, clean everything up, and put it all back together. Replace the intake manifold gasket while you're in there and check all of the wiring and vacuum lines, replace as necessary. A good weekend project. With EGR defeated, the insides will stay much cleaner. While you're blocking the vacuum line to the EGR valve, do the ARV also, since it isn't needed with EGR defeated.

Another advantage of the BB trick is that all the hardware is still present (so the car looks stock) but it doesn't do anything. If you do decide to remove the EGR valve, consider also removing the two vacuum actuators that live under the air cleaner. They control the EGR and ARV and aren't needed once those valves are removed/defeated. The ARV is part of the turbo and can't be easily removed but the vacuum line can be plugged.

Also use the search function in this forum, this has been discussed many times and there is lots of good info here.

Jeremy

sixto · #21 10-20-2008, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Wilson

And all I needed was new foam absorbent material. Not available by itself.

DynaMat has underhood material that should survive as belly pan liner.

Sixto
87 300D

sixto · #22 10-20-2008, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLACKCDI

... I picked up 1987 300D with around 200k miles for $2000 as my commuter car in Bay Area, CA

The one listed on craigslist in San Mateo?

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLACKCDI

Ac works but the center vents don't.

You can mess with the ACC vacuum lines and switches but most likely the vacuum actuators are shot. On these cars the most sensible course of action is to remove the dash and install a fresh set of actuators. Many will agree this 20 hour job is the easy way

Replacement diaphragms are available in the aftermarket but they don't work so well in dual mode pods and if you crack the brittle clips holding the pod halves together you need new pods anyway. Good time to swap in a dash with no cracks if the existing dash is cracked and such things bother you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLACKCDI

There is a oil leak in the front of the engine.

My money's on the front cover of the vacuum pump if it's an old style vacuum pump (no exposed bolt heads on the front cover). Maybe the gasket between the pump and the timing chain cover. If it's an old style pump, consider a later style pump as old style pump failure can take out the timing chain.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLACKCDI

I occasionally smell diesel exhaust inside the car while driving, is this normal?

I think you know the answer to this one

Seriously, my rule of thumb for normal/not normal is this - would you pay $50K for a new car that behaved that way?

This is not a common topic for 87s. Start with the basics - is there a strong exhaust smell outside that the AC is sucking into the cabin? Does it look like there's an exhaust leak anywhere along the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe? Maybe the flex section of the downpipe?

Sixto
87 300D

BLACKCDI · #23 10-20-2008, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

The one listed on craigslist in San Mateo?

You can mess with the ACC vacuum lines and switches but most likely the vacuum actuators are shot. On these cars the most sensible course of action is to remove the dash and install a fresh set of actuators. Many will agree this 20 hour job is the easy way

Replacement diaphragms are available in the aftermarket but they don't work so well in dual mode pods and if you crack the brittle clips holding the pod halves together you need new pods anyway. Good time to swap in a dash with no cracks if the existing dash is cracked and such things bother you.

My money's on the front cover of the vacuum pump if it's an old style vacuum pump (no exposed bolt heads on the front cover). Maybe the gasket between the pump and the timing chain cover. If it's an old style pump, consider a later style pump as old style pump failure can take out the timing chain.

I think you know the answer to this one

Seriously, my rule of thumb for normal/not normal is this - would you pay $50K for a new car that behaved that way?

This is not a common topic for 87s. Start with the basics - is there a strong exhaust smell outside that the AC is sucking into the cabin? Does it look like there's an exhaust leak anywhere along the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe? Maybe the flex section of the downpipe?

Sixto
87 300D

Very informative, thank you!
I got the one in San Francisco (the white one), he wanted $3300 but I talked him down to 2k. The dash and the interior are actually very close to perfect! Don't know why... Since the outside paint on trunk and roof is oxidized.(I will be respraying it).
The smell does come from the vents...I will investigate further.
The dash job is a little scary, I will do it after I take care of the essential stuff, like the oil leak.

Michael_Vila · #24 04-14-2009, 03:24 PM

Just picked up a 87 300D with 150,000 miles for 3k. Nice ride. I've driven it less than 500 miles and was about to do an oil change, Since I don't have the original manuals, I'm not sure what kind of OIL to use. Although I've used original spec oil in most other vehicles, and also include an 'Engine Restore' treatment every 50,000. I was going to hold off on that till I gave it one or two oil changes.

awsrock · #25 04-14-2009, 03:33 PM

Whoa, hello there neighbor!

I'd love to come see your car. I can offer my help too, if you're interested. Send me a PM and we can talk!

You'll want to use anything that is diesel rated, Xw-40. I use Mobil 1 5w-40 myself.

sixto · #26 04-14-2009, 03:44 PM

I've been away for a few weeks but it's always nice to come back to a good oil thread.

I'd avoid additives and cleaners. These engines go lots of miles on plain oil. If you want to get rid of sludge, use a good quality synthetic oil like Mobil Delvac.

Sixto
87 300D