Guys, I think I found my exaust leak!!! Need advice!
 

Started to disassemble this bad boy today... manifold is almost plugged with tarr!
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/5024/img0225eh4.jpg

So everything was going great till about this point here:eek::eek::eek:
Looks like I found the exaust leak I was smelling inside the car!!!
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/39/img0229bt2.jpg
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/39/img0229bt2.jpg

This looks pretty bad to me, can this be welded up? What are my options...

I also have a clacking sound from the engine, looks like the hydraulic valve lifter,, How hard or easy of a job would it be to replace all of them?

I would guess a new turbo is needed. I would not try and weld it. It is strange for that to have a hole. Must be a flaw in the casting, or an out of ballance impeller.
Do not know about the lifters.

I can feel the turbo working, I wander if it's possible to just weld a plate in...

Did you not say (in an earlier post) that the trap cat recall had been performed? The turbo problem should have been caught and replaced at that time. Do you have any information on who/where/when the recall work was performed? If that is not possible, a junkyard turbo would be a good possibility – new ones are probably rather pricey.

BTW, that is probably the source of your "excess noise" problem also.

Jeremy

I think the turbo case is cast iron, welding is not a good option.

you could weld it but i dont think that the weld would hold very well to the intense heat due to the high ammount of nickel that is required to weld on cast iron.

It's cast so it won't weld, and it gets too hot for brazing. Time for a new turbo, or at least a new turbine housing.

Any pointers on hydraulic valve lifters?
How big of a job is it?
Any spec. tools needed?
I once did valve job with stem seals on BMW 850 (V12), I think after I had to schedule a chiropractic appointment:))))))

You can arc weld it with a nickel rod. It's surprisingly easy and yields good results. Basically, all you'd be out is some time taking it off and putting it back on.

Lifters are no big deal. Zip-tie the chain to the timing gear, remove the gear from the camshaft, remove the camshaft towers USING THE PROPER PROCEDURE SO THAT YOU DON'T SNAP THE CAMSHAFT, lift them out with a suction cup or strong magnet, replace. The cam towers are numbered, don't mix them up when re-assembling, and remember to do it in the proper order to not snap the camshaft.

I can't think of anything complicated in this job, anyone?

The cam has to come off. No special tools but there's a specific order to loosenging the cam towers. Get it wrong and you'll go from SOHC to DOHC in the negative sense.

Many people have had success quieting the lifters with Mobil 1. I don't know if the success rate is as good or better with Amsoil or anything else. It can take 2-3 synthetic oil changes to to get them quiet and a steady diet to keep them quiet.

The head gaskets are known to disintigrate where the oil goes from the block to the head to pressurize the lifters. Bits of head gasket can lodge in the oil passages leading to lifter noise. Keep this in mind when deciding whether new lifters are worth the expense. I mean if you think a new head gasket is a when rather than an if, maybe synthetic oil for now is the way to go.

I can't tell from the pictures if that's a Garrett or KKK turbo. I'm pretty sure they're interchangeable as units but not as components. Make sure you know what you have before you start buying parts.

Check the parts forum for folks selling 603 turbos or at least 603 turbine housings. I don't know if 617 turbos use the same turbine housing.

A 55 trim compressor housing from a 3.5 liter 603 is an upgrade option. Uses the same turbine section. The compressor inlet is about an inch shorter than the one you have now but that's about the only swap complexity.

Sixto
87 300D

thanks guys, the plan is to switch to Elf 5-40 Synthetic so I will try that and see if that helps with the noise before messing with the camshaft.

I will take the turbo out and check it for functionality, if it's still good I will have it arc welded with a nickel rod like someone suggested, if not I will replace it.
I took out the radiator today and the fan clutch, drained the antifreeze from the radiator nipple, I could not find a drain bold on the block for the life of me! Anyone has a pic of where exactly it's located?

Nope, lifters are pretty simple.

Also looks like you need a new turbo.

The coolant drain on the block is on the passenger side just in front of the starter motor. It looks like a short stub of pipe with a hex nut so that you can get a wrench on it. I thought I had a photo but don't or at least can't find it. Once you have the drain loosened a bit (takes a bit of torque and the location is not the best, must access from underneath) you can put a hose (1/2 inch ID worked for me) in the little pipe so the coolant drains into a pan and not all over the ground and you.

THANK YOU!
I was busting my ass looking for it on the drivers side:D:D:D
Just ordered $600 worth of parts, including water pump, vacuum pump, both engine mounts all filters, oils and so on...
Will see if I can resurrect this Benz from the walking dead:))