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Blower Motor/AC Issue
Hello all. I have combed through the forum and have seen that alot of people have had different issues with their blower motor. Mine works and the AC blows nice and cold, but after a few minutes, the #8 fuse starts to melt. I first noticed a burning smell when I was driving then the AC cut off. When I looked at the fuse it was pretty much toast. The metal leads that hold the fuse look like they're burnt and it seems like the fuses melt rather than the metal strip breaking/burning away. I tried to test for a ground by disconnecting each component on that fuse (blower motor, AC compressor, and switchover valve) and can't seem to make any headway. When I tested the original blower motor, I jumped it to the battery and it spun, then seemed to stop, start and stop again so I figured I had a bad motor. I bought a new (used) one and installed it and am having the same problem. I took the old motor apart today and the brushes inside seem to be fine. Does anyone have any tips on this one? I'd REALLY love to start using the AC that I just got going again. Thanks!
By the way, if anyone is ever interested in a meet down in South Florida, I'd definitely love to meet some other MB greasers! -Paul |
#2
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Kindly read and understand this post prior to posting again on the forum.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=127342 |
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Yes, model and year would help.
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Gone to the dark side - Jeff |
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Our daughter had an '82 240d that had a problem when we bought it with the blower motor. The PO told us that he had removed the motor, and it checked out ok. When we opened up the fuse box, the fuse was blown big time. It had melted the upper connector and the plastic around it, fortunately not doing any damage to other fuse holders. I did a couple of searches and found that for some reason this was not uncommon. I can't remember if it was a wrong fuse size or the load on the fuse from the blower was too high, but if you go through the search process (up there on the top border), you will find more about it. You may have to re-word your search a few times, but there were more than a few who knew the steps to locate the problem. If I can find something shortly, I'll get back on here and let you know. Good luck, and keep us updated on your findings!
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"Knowing is not enough, we must apply. Willing is not enough, we must do." Goethe *********************************** 1951 Chevy 3100 2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster 1983 GMC 1 ton Dually 1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold) '90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban" (single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD '81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD '83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD 2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!) |
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Thank you Showme. I'll look forward to any advice or information. I am talking about a 1982 300D for everyone else, sorry for not adding that before. I've heard about a 30 amp supplemental fuse that people have had some luck with but I'd rather avoid any mods if possible. Thanks again!
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#6
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The 30 amp fix is a factory approved repair. If you do not want to do this, you can take the motor apart again try to oil the bearings. This could buy you some time. I soaked my motor in B100 and it removed a lot of crud ad the motor ran well for a month or so. The best bet is a fresh motor.
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
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Thanks Luv. Do you know if there is a generic 30 amp repair or does everyone pretty much buy the part from MB direct? I saw a part number for a manufacturers recommended fix. Thanks again.
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#8
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There is a factory fuseholder that is recommended for the '87 300D (W124). The same thing would probably work on your W123 and may be recommended. I wasn't aware of it, not having had this problem with my 123. You can get a pigtail fuse holder from an auto parts store and use whatever kind of fuse it takes. Make sure the wires are stout as the fan on high speed draws about 27 Amps.
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
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Factory fuseholder
You can use a generic pigtail fuse or the factory part as shown in this picture, attached to the shock tower just in front of the fusebox. This is in my 124, it replaces fuse #12. The 123 is similar but a different fuse.
If you do use the factory part, put a little anti-corrosion paste on the 30A (aluminum strip) fuse. The same stuff that electricians use for copper-aluminum wire junctions is fine. This keeps the connection between the fuse and the fuseholder from corroding. Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
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