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  #1  
Old 10-28-2008, 04:38 PM
Zack
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Knoxville, TN
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Replaceing Starter and Rebuilding Turbo seals

I posted a few minutes ago about the electrical issues I have been having under the post, "BAttery reads fine but won't start"

I think that it must be a bad starter that I have on my hands.

I want to know if it is a good idea to go ahead and yank the turbo and fix the leaking seals, the just about pour oil out, when I am on the interstate it gets pretty nasty under there.

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  #2  
Old 10-28-2008, 05:07 PM
Zack
 
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Has anyone ever rebuilt the seals ina turbo?
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1984 300D Turbo
1980 300SD Sold
1983 300TD Sold
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Marin Northside Trail Mtn. Bike
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2008, 08:08 PM
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If you are getting external oil leakage,its not likely to be turbocharger seals,when the actual turbo seals fail it will put lots of oil into the intake or the exhaust creating plenty of oil smoke (white/grey) and very high oil consumption.Clean the oil soaked area well and then see if you can determine where the oil is really leaking. Don
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:54 PM
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There is a few Threads with some info on rebuilding the Turbo but not extensive info.
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2008, 09:57 PM
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Clean carefully and identify the source of the leak.
I'm giving odds on it being the turbo oil return line at the crankcase.
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1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2008, 11:29 PM
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You might as well pull the Turbo off and while off change out the starter. I have just finished doing this, putting in all new gaskets, O-rings, etc.. Cleaned everything up when I had it out . As everything was out of the way I replaced the starter from the top side(way easier). Chances are just new gaskets and O-rings will take care of the oil leaks or at least make it easier to track them down. If you decide to go in from the Top let us know as I may have some pics etc.. good luck.
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Old 01-28-2009, 12:29 AM
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2DieselJohn,

Do you feel like the Turbo R&R is a diy job for an average home mechanic? I would really appreciate some pictures of the job you did to help me gauge if I can take it on, feel free to email or pm. I see oil dripping down from what I believe is a diaphram for the wastegate. No idea why there is oil coming from there so anyone's input is very welcome...

Best regards, Ed
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85 300D Turbo "The Diesel"

Past wives...
92 300E
85 190E

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Old 01-28-2009, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ML Dude View Post
2DieselJohn,

Do you feel like the Turbo R&R is a diy job for an average home mechanic? I would really appreciate some pictures of the job you did to help me gauge if I can take it on, feel free to email or pm. I see oil dripping down from what I believe is a diaphram for the wastegate. No idea why there is oil coming from there so anyone's input is very welcome...

Best regards, Ed
Yes and no. Replacing the turbo - yes. Repairing the turbo - no. Replacement is easy, and is no more difficult than replacing a manifold (for a bolt-on stock replacement).

Turbo rebuilding tends to be on the tricky side - which is why it's the sort of thing usually best left to specialized shops. If you are lucky, and your turbo is neutrally balanced BY COMPONENT from the factory, it is possible to do if you are good with your hands. In that case, it's not any more difficult than, say, reassembly a differential from all the individual pieces, or rebuilding an engine (other than aircooled Volkswagen ones). If it's a Mitsubishi-style turbo, and 'shaft balanced' (ie, the whole rotating assembly is balanced as a unit), don't bother. Those have to be left to a shop to be balanced right, and it's usually cheaper to upgrade than rebuild (rebalancing a turbo is $$ because the RPMs are so high - most automotive turbos 'idle' [neutral pressure balance] at 85000+ rpm and max out at 200,000 rpm).
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  #9  
Old 01-28-2009, 01:09 PM
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As previously mentioned, and several threads talk about this, the sign of turbo seal failure is usually very high oil consumption (~qt/200mi.).

If your talking about the intake becoming oily, it's more likely the oil separator. The best thing I've done is to seal around the top edge of the separator with silicone. Also, ensure there is a good o-ring on the bottom, where it connects to the drain tube. If you have broken air cleaner housing mounts, they need to be replaced foremost.

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