screw drivers weren't made for prying... Pick up a set of prybars from HF

If you replace the seal what does it matter if you destory it in the removal process?

oh just the seal then pry with a screw driver.. I thought you were talking about something else.

Something isn't right....... hahaha

79Mercy, thanks for taking the extra time to post the pics for this job. Yeah so some folks here said you may have missed some steps or they would have liked to see some things done differently. Don't let them discourage you from posting some more DIY pictorial threads. These help everybody and it's the discussions and interjections that follow the initial posting where you can really learn further and gain knowledge on how you want to go about and tackle the job yourself. What I'm getting at is that every body here obviously has a passion for the cars we drive and try to maintain but everybody doesn't have the same skill level. You went ahead and did your best. I certainly didn't see anything that you obviously damaged. Would I have done it the same way? Maybe not exactly, but I think I would be better off having you replace my pads and rotors than some hack at a discount brake shop. Thanks again:thumbup:

I may not be an ASE tech, but I've dicked with the front brakes on enough W126s......... backing off a tad just doesn't cut it. The bearings were so loose on my cars they made a Saigon "call girl" appear to be in proper order, using that method. ;)

Spend the extra few dollars for a METRIC readout dial indicator with a magnetic base. You'll be ASTONISHED how far off your bearings are without this device in your tool box.



To the thread maker: do yourself a favor and go back over your work, I had to on my stuff.

Or if a METRIC dial indicator is not readily available, you can use this handy conversion chart.


http://www.yodio.com/yo.aspx?cardid=uvCq9fv1lj55dhUXIEqYX1

Not accurate enough. BTDT.

OK Agreed, after looking at this conversion chart yes it is not accurate enough. However, here is an example of a conversion while replacing rear bearings by dmorrison, seems to work pretty good.

The limits are 0.04-0.06 mm
SAE .0015-.0023Inch
Or 1 mark on my dial gauge is .001 Inch

This shows the dial gauge tolerance I achieved. One is pushing on the hub and other is pulling on it. I have about a .0015 setting.

http://www.peachparts.com/diy/w123rearwheelbearings/27.jpg

Is it your opinion that you should only use a metric dial indicator?

Yes, it's worth the extra dollars up front to save misery down the line. Attempting to convert fractions into Metric is not only a PITA, yet quite inaccurate.

Do a search for my user name and me dicking with my 300SD's front rotors.

May I ask what you may have done differently other then the bearing?

I just took the car on a small 200 mile vaction and everything is still okay.

What are the limits for the front bearing?

Ideally, you want .0005" axial play........basically zero. If you have more than .001, the steering can get a bit sloppy.........if you have less than zero, the bearings are preloaded and their life is shortened rather dramatically.

Driving 200 or 1000 miles after you preloaded the bearings is no assurance that you'll go another 30K miles.

That's right about 0.0125mm. When I tightened mine to that, the wheels got hot after a ~25 mile drive to work. Redid the tolerances when I got home and the feel is back to how it originally felt. Wheels were not hot anymore.

I used a digital gauge instead, was a bit sensitive so it was tricky to get it right. The original bearings were in really good shape, did not smell burnt whatsoever and still had very green grease. Repacked generously and cleaned very thoroughly before installing.

One last question - those 10mm Allen bolts - are they really torqued to only 84lb-ft?

When you say "only 84 lb.-ft."...........how much more do you think you need? It's close to the yield strength of that fastener.