Kroil.

I've heard of it, never seen it. PB Blaster has done me ok except for the little bitty bolts/studs that held on the exhaust manifold on my old vw that had not been off the car for 30 years. Despite soaking them for a few days, I snapped em off nice and neatly flush.

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95 E300D working out the kinks
77 300D, 227k, station car
83 300CD 370k, gone away
89 190E 2.6- 335k, no more
79 VW FI Bus- 145k miles, summer driver
59 VW Beetle ragtop- 175k miles
12 VW Jetta- 160k miles

Thats right, Kroil from Kano Industries.
I have used it for a few years and its ability to penetrate cracks "one millionth" of an inch in size has been demonstrated.
No Bull, I like the stuff

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

I found that if you loosen the power steering lines from the gearbox wrenching in there was a piece of cake! of course, then power steering fluid is dripping on you while you mount the bolts into the new mount!!! so it helps to move the lines out of the way, then tighten them up so they aren't dripping. then put them back where they were when you are done!
DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE SHIELD BACK ON THE MOUNT!!! it keeps fuel and oil from dripping on the mount rubber, causing premature failure. My car does not have one from a PO changeout....grrrr.

oh, and when putting the new mount in, start all bolts into the arm first, by hand! do not strip the aluminum arm... they are not easy to find, nor are they cheap!

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm stuck at the engine shock absorbers.

I removed the top bolt with no problem, but the bottom one is spinning with the threaded metal it is attached to.

I'm obviously doing something wrong. Reattaching the top bolt doesn't seem to do anything.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

It's a shock with a internal piston and shaft so it doesn't do any good holding the top bolt.

Easy way is to grab the shaft with a Vice-Grip. Or if you get to it there flat spots on near the bottom of the shaft that you can put a wrench on.



.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

The flat spot/cutout is just on the top of the lower gaskets - small, somewhere around 6-8 mm wrench will do; similar to the flat spot on the top of main shock absorber rod.

Do have replacements? Look at them. Or the FSM? Just above the number 46 in the pic. If you look really closely, you can see it in the Fastlane pic for the engine shock.

Hope you don't need new mounts for the shocks. They're $75, each.

I couldn't find the flat area where I could grab a wrench. I finally downloaded my illicit copy of the FSM and saw what they were mentioning.

I ended up doing what delivery valve said and grabbed it with a vice grip. That did the trick on the driver's side. On the passenger side I unbolted the top of the shock and just pulled up and the top came out.

Either way it's out and I have both of my old oil cooler lines out as my victory prize.

Thanks guys!

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

snap-on and mac tool trucks have a socket that fits the end of shocks and such so you hold the nut with a box end wrench and turn the shaft with the shock socket.

I think that tool is for chassis suspension shocks. A 7mm open end wrench is quite adequate for engine shocks.

Yep, I hate to burst the bubble. But you'll feel victorious right up until the moment when you try and put them back in. Do you know many German curses? Learn...

Hehe, I did use some english curses but this may surprise you.

Getting the new lines back in was too easy. In fact it took me 10 minutes.

I started with the upper line and slide the metal between the power steering and fuel hoses. Once the curved pipe was in I was able to bend the rubber portion through and rest it in the proper place that the line run.

This was by far the easiest part of the job.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

Can someone explain this center "anti-vibration t-mount" to me?? I had to replace my oil pan recently, and I noticed this thing. What does it do, and does it go bad like the motor mounts? Should I replace it when I replace the mounts?

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Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles

It's actually required to replace the oil lines every 10 years when used in aircraft per the FAR'S. They are tagged with the date of MFG. 10 years and out they go.

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'70 F100 shortbed
'82 Diesel Westy
'83 Euro 300TD
Curtlo Viper
Yeti ARC
Surly long haul trucker