Is there any specific tool or tools that, if you were to repeat the task, you would make sure you had on hand?

I'm planning to undertake this project within the next month or so (planning!) and I thought I'd carefully procure the necessary tool(s) that will aid in keeping the frustration level in check!

Looking through the Search feature I was unable to find the answer. Thanks for replies....

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Dale

Try searching here; it is buried deep in the Engine Mechanical section:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

It is buried....there are about four there.. this looked good..

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/51429-motor-transmission-mounts.html#post300614

Thanks Guys! Lots of good info there...

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Dale

Use loctite on the underside mount bolts.

Does each mount have one large and two small bolts?

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

^ yup

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

No special tools...

But a good floor jack is needed because you need to raise the engine a good 1-2 inches to be able to remove the old and put the new munts.

It also imperative that you use a flat piece of wood like a 2 x 6 or 2 x 12 in between the jack and the oil pan.

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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth...
2007 Honda Accord EX
2007 Honda Accord SE V6
96 C220
97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
84 300D - Found Another Home
80 300TD - Found Another Home
Previous cars:
96 Caravan
87 Camry
84 Cressida
82 Vanagon
80 Fiesta
78 Nova
Ford Cortina
Opel Kadet
68 Kombi
Contessa

clean out those allen head bolts before jamming the tool in there

Do not use a cheep Hex Driver or you will risk stripping the bolts. Also plan on replacing the engine shocks. Have you thought about the oil cooler lines while you have the mount out of the way?
Regards

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2dieseljohn
1979 300sd (283,000+) Road Trips
1983 240D 4-speed (350,000+) Daily Driver
1967 E-TypeS1 in bits and pieces

I just had my car in to my indy mechanic for a sort of "goin' through" and I specifically asked him to evaluate the oil cooler lines. He said they were fine, so I never really gave it a second thought. However, I certainly do see your logic!

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Dale

This is one of those things that just jumps up and smacks me in the face...
How in the world would one evaluate the oil lines as to their future life except if they have obvious cracks in them... No way that I know of...
How much do they cost ? What is the chance they are original ? How much problem ( read the archives ) would it be if one gave way out on the road ?
That is one thing like Hoses and Belts.... at some time they should be replaced ( as the FSM is fond of saying ) On Principle.!!!
Unless they are aircraft quality steel braided lines replacing them at least once per decade seems prudent... and if you have not had the car that long then just for the sake of sleeping better they should be renewed.

First I would reccomend getting a 6mm allen wrench that has a ball on the long end. You can break loose and do the final tightening with the short end and do the majoroity of the turning with the ball end. This is really handy on the inside bolt on the driver's side where you can't get a straight shot at the bolt. Take out the large bolt on the bottom, jack the engine up, and you can fit the short end of the allen wrench on the bolt to break it loose. Then you can get the long ball end in at an angle and spin it out. Just don't try and apply any real torque using the ball end, especially at an angle.

Second be careful when jacking up the engine. I found that the higher you get the engine the easier it is to change the mounts. The problem is that bad things can happen. In my case I pulled the power steering return hose loose and caused a leak and also pushed the fan shroud up into the radiator neck and cracked it. The factory service manual says to disconnect the throttle linkage at the firewall. So just keep an eye on things as you jack the motor up.

Lastly if you haven't ordered the parts yet order four new upper bolts because you'll find some of them with stripped out heads and missing or broken washers. I think they are less than a dollar apiece on this site.

I just cut off the long end of a 6mm allen and fit it into a 6mm socket, worked very well.

unhook the fan shroud before lifting the engine, and hang it on the fan, so it does not contact th radiator.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Make sure to remove the nut from the top of the engine shocks before you start lifting the engine to remove the mounts. If you don't you'll destroy the engine shock mounts, ask me how I know. Also when you thread the 8mm bolts in the bottom of the mounts make sure they are threaded in properly. The mount arm is aluminum and it is REALLY easy to cross thread the bolt. Then you're up poo creek without a paddle.

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