I am using this linked writeup for guidance in my timing adventure: http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming

1. When I align the engine to 25*, the cam for cyl 1 is exhaust: 3 o'clock, and intake: about 10-11 o'clock. I figured the intake would be just closing at the beginning of the compression stroke. Is this about normal?

2. I am still at 25*, and hooked up my drip tube. Without even setting the throttle wide open, I push the primer pump and get fuel squirting without any resistance. Am I still looking at a simple rotation of the IP?

Sorry if these are stupid questions and I am worrying about nothing. This is my first time messing with anything timing related, so I am learning as I go. Correct me if I am wrong, but with the squirting fuel, my engine would be running really retarded right? I am guessing it's from chain stretch, right? Just trying to understand what I am doing here.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

Oh yeah, it's on my '85 300CD 105k mi. on it now...I bought it about 12k ago.

I don't know when it was done last...I have Mercedes service records up to about 65k. I did the valves a month or two ago, and they were all off.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

1. You got it. Fresh intake just occurred and is now being compressed. Exhaust is about to happen.

2. Yes. But wire it open!

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It is actually 24* btdc to time these. You dont really want a full stream of fuel.. just a few drips. Full stream pump is too far advanced. Timing is the most critical adjustment on these engines. It will effect everything from ease of starting to power and economy. How far may I ask was your initial timing off? Do you have the repair history of this car? Over 150K I'd be looking seriously at a new chain if your timing was off significantly.

The "full stream" occurs before the drip. The IP needs to be advanced until the stream stops and the drip begins.

OK, after fighting with the rear nut for about an hour, I am playing with adjusting it right now.

Is the idea to turn the IP toward the engine so there is no drip, pump a few times to build pressure, then turn the unit away until the drip starts, or am I supposed to be able to pump and get drips right then? I can't seem to find a mid point between no flow and full flow. I also find different cut-off points between no and full flow depending on which direction I am going.

*throttle wired open.

*I read in another thread that Forced set his to 26* and it seemed to run stronger. I know he has done a lot more to his car than I have done to mine, but I figured it couldn't hurt. I don't have much of a winter here anyways, so I'm not worried about cold starting.

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

thats right. You want to be reducing the fuel flow only. You should be able to pump and only get drops

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Great thread - I will be doing this this week and had the same questions
Also, I wondered about the IP gasket. Should I worry about it tearing or anything? I have a replacement JIC, but I assume I really DON'T want to replace it?!?
thanks everyone!!!

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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

OK, let me clarify my last question some more...

It feels like there is a little play in the spline of the IP. I found a spot with drips while I am pumping, but there is a few degrees of play if I turn the IP back and forth...which direction should I be turning the unit to get my drips?

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My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior

top of the IP towards the engine. Going the other way results in late start of delivery.

It helps alot to understand what the engine is doing. your timing chain runs clockwise when looking at the front of the engine. The chain runs over the top of the IP timing gear which spins the IP spline. You want to recreate this same action when you are adjusting the timing so that it mimics the action of the chain, iP timing gear, and IP.

If you have gone too far, and get zero flow- Return to a point with full flow, and creep towards the engine again in the same manner.

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Chain stretch... 10 degrees BTDC?

check this thread for simple pictures of the chain route, unless you already have the FSM.


cam sprocket at the top. IP gear to the right. Crankshaft gear on the bottom. All turning clockwise. (this is a simplified version showing only pertinent members)

Attached Thumbnails

 

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OK, I think we got it. I found the proper drip while turning the IP clockwise (looking forward). I buttoned everything up, and started the car. It really didn't want to start, but I am assuming that it had to refill the injector lines.

I went for a drive, it felt fine. I have a good (fast) vibration at idle, but doesn't feel like the engine is bucking like it was before.

I am going to let it cool for the night and make sure it starts easily when the engine is cold. Man, I hope I don't have to do that again for a while.

__________________
My Primary Driver - '85 300CD - 4-speed conversion, 2.47 rear, lowered, euro headlights, rebuilding (not restoring so much)

Wife's - '08 Saab Sportcombi Aero

Riding a '03 Yamaha Warrior