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  #31  
Old 11-26-2008, 01:41 AM
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you have got to be joking.

I call work.


You are running an engine without a properly installed balancer?... after all that everyone has told you?

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  #32  
Old 11-26-2008, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelsblack009 View Post
when starting anyway my balance plate (harmonic balancer) was on the wrong way 180 degrees advanced 180 degrees the wrong way thats why when i set the camshaft on tdc and set the crank pulley on OT it makes a whirring sound dowel pins are not available i might have to get two cut (lath machine)
How did your balancer get put on wrong?
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
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  #33  
Old 11-26-2008, 12:45 PM
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Gadzooks........

Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelsblack009 View Post
when starting anyway my balance plate (harmonic balancer) was on the wrong way 180 degrees advanced 180 degrees the wrong way thats why when i set the camshaft on tdc and set the crank pulley on OT it makes a whirring sound dowel pins are not available i might have to get two cut (lath machine)
WHERE ARE YOU???? = GEOGRAPHIC LOCATION PLEASE....

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The dowel pins MB# 000007008244 are available everywhere in the world......

000007008244 Dowel for harmonic balancer, Large Engine Application List
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  #34  
Old 11-26-2008, 06:45 PM
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wow! In all the years I've worked on these cars.. I have NEVER seen the damper put on 180* out. Thats one for the books.

I guess I have to ask the ultimate in stupid questions.. did this engine ever run?? I mean I read the part about missing school, but how in the world did it run if the damper was on backwards from the start? You may be able to get a couple of long bolts of the proper diameter and make the dowel pins that way.
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  #35  
Old 11-27-2008, 04:20 AM
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balencer was probeby in wrong

well thatnks every one for understanding this is what caused the confusion when my dad got the engine overhalled its likely that the stupid michanic put it in 180 degrees past the mark and thats not unherd of i got the idea that it might be put in wrong too by reading one of your fourms a guy had the same problem the previous owner put it in 180 degrees wrong see the 0T mark means the iston has traveled up fully i think (t) in 0t stands for top now 180 degrees past this makr there is another mark thats when the cilinder has traveled fully down duh so when that camshaft is set on the noch the crankshaft is not set at the 0T mark but at the mark 180 DEGREES PAST THAT 0T mark ,

i'll explain again when camshaft is set on 0T the crankshaft points at the 180 degrees passed 0T so the balencer shows that the piston is fully down where as its fully up and yes the car ran sort of ok thais hapened when i was 4 years now i'm 15 so hopefully the car should run much better after i am done i hope you can understand what had gone wrong here ,

ps I live way over in srilanka, yeah

and also thats why when i set the cam at tdc with the crank at 0T it makes a funny noise and refuses to start
excuse any spelling erros i have to run or my father will be fuming
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  #36  
Old 11-27-2008, 11:52 AM
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Srilanka! You are on the other side of the world from most of us. I worked for several years 800 miles south of you at Diago Garcia.
You should be very certain about the balancer before pulling it as getting it back on correctly is tricky. Not sure but perhaps making new marks would, in this case, be a good idea, epically if you cant get the proper dowel pins. Hopefully someone will chime in that can advise you in this.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Last edited by Stevo; 11-27-2008 at 11:59 AM.
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  #37  
Old 11-27-2008, 02:17 PM
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sorry to say but its not very promising if the basic engine timing was off.there is virtually no piston to valve clearance at TDC.the short of it is you could have some bent valves there
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  #38  
Old 11-27-2008, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael cole View Post
sorry to say but its not very promising if the basic engine timing was off.there is virtually no piston to valve clearance at TDC.the short of it is you could have some bent valves there
I believe the valves would be in the favorable relationship with the pistons at 180 out, therefore causing no damage. not sure tho, I wouldn't put any money on it

,
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #39  
Old 11-28-2008, 03:42 AM
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piston

ok i asume that when pully is pointing at 0T the pistion on the number one cilinder should be fully up if there is an easy whay of knowing when the pistion is up i could get the pully on right
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  #40  
Old 11-28-2008, 11:36 AM
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There is no easy way of knowing where the pistons are with your engine. If you suspect the balancer has been installed 180 out, mark (small file mark) 24 and TDC on the other side and try it. This is the drill...1) cam on its mark with crank set a TDC..2) IP installed at 24 degrees mark, this must be on the compression stroke (#1 set of cam lobes more or less pointing up) The engine should fire up and can be timed later to get it right on. Do this using your new balancer marks. Before trying to start it turn the engine over by hand to be sure pistons and valves will not collide.
Yesterday was a big holiday here so perhaps more of our experienced members will be around today, I dont know what else to tell you. Good luck
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Last edited by Stevo; 11-28-2008 at 01:13 PM.
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  #41  
Old 11-29-2008, 06:30 AM
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Wink

thanks stevo, the weather around here is really crappy because Christmas is close i have already installed the balencer and put new dowel pins i think it should be ok i hope but i am no expert
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  #42  
Old 11-30-2008, 08:07 AM
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Cool started great and NO SMOKE

hi the car cranked up great and no smoke but the engine was shaking when i opened the bonnet, and the car to was like swaying hard one more thing the car has lost torque like it needs more torque hard to drive on the third gear (i think i must have set it to 25 degrees) insted of 24 oops is that the problem as to why it lacks torque ?
please post back a solution if possible thanks every one and yes, the harmonic balencer was installed incorrectly but its ok now
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  #43  
Old 11-30-2008, 11:52 AM
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good to hear.

You can safely set the injector timing between 24* - 27*

You should definitely time the pump again. Make sure to only push the pump towards the engine when searching for the required flow volume.

if that does not fix it, inspect the injectors, have them calibrated by a shop.

What exactly was the reason for removing the pump again?
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  #44  
Old 12-01-2008, 03:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
good to hear.

You can safely set the injector timing between 24* - 27*

You should definitely time the pump again. Make sure to only push the pump towards the engine when searching for the required flow volume.

if that does not fix it, inspect the injectors, have them calibrated by a shop.

What exactly was the reason for removing the pump again?
i dont quite know what you mean "again"

do you think that if i reset the timing of the pump the car will get more torque
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  #45  
Old 12-02-2008, 01:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixelsblack009 View Post
i dont quite know what you mean "again"

do you think that if i reset the timing of the pump the car will get more torque

by 'again' I meant Telll me why you removed the pump? Was it to fix something.

after doing work like this, timing the pump is never a bad idea.

Remember to only reduce the flow of fuel when timing. Do not pull the pump away from the engine when timing - only push. If you have to start again, then pull the pump back and start pushing again.

anywhere b/w 24* - 27* is just fine.

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