I'm planning to replace my timing chain and headgasket, and head bolts this Christmas break and here's why: I'll be home for two weeks, in my heated shop, with my Father(who has been working on diesels since he was 14), and I want to take baseline photos of the head internals/cylinders before undergoing a WVO conversion

I know I'll need the special torque tool, is there anything else I should replace/check while I'm in there?


Forced:I know that WVO will send me directly to hell, but it was a $500 car and a perfect candidate to do a proper experiment with.

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Well since you have the head off might as well look at and clean the valves, and ports, and have a look at the cylinders (pics of all of these would be great. And you might want to look at your prechambers to make sure everything is okay on the front. And if you have the time clean your injectors. But that is just my .02 cents worth. Have fun and posts some pics!

There is really no need to replace the head bolts unless they are out of spec. I would DEFINITELY have the head thoroughly checked out by a machine shop. Maybe have the injectors and prechambers checked out too.

Any particular reason why you think you need to do the gasket and head bolts?

I was under the impression that they were regular wear items. I was going to replace them with grade10 bolts(If I can source some)

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

ONLY use OEM bolts from Mercedes! You'll need a triple square tool to take out the head bolts. I can mail you mine to borrow if you need it.

I can't say I'm an expert on the cast iron era heads, but the service manual for the 603s says that if the bolts measure properly, they do not need to be changed.

Personally, if this car was truly $500, there is probably a bunch of other things besides changing out a head gasket as preventative maintenance that need attention.

If you don't already have it, call MB and buy the service manual DVD ($20).

MAW disease strikes already....

I congratulate you on replacing the head bolts. The bolt tool is not really that 'special'.

If I was to preapre for the head again.. replace the upper chain guide in the head and buy the fitted pins before you start!

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unless there is currently a leak from the HG, dont sweat its plane.

Thoroughly inspect valve guide wear once the head is out. (wiggle the valves in the guides - exhaust will def. have more play.)

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Don't forget about the valve seals. Not expensive and will save a lot of oil from burning.

+1 on the valve seals, also might want to check your flex disc and driveshaft bearing (not in the engine but still worth checking)

I believe the running stress on vegatable oil is much less on the headgasket than burning diesel. The flamefront is longer and gentler so instantainious pressures will be much less. That in combination with the low failure rate of head gaskets on those blocks should make you think about this. This comment is asumming you have a cast iron block and head.

If you were to go to all the trouble to remove the head I would do a compression check beforehand plus do the valves. After the head is back on then check compression again. If improved it might have been worthwhile.

These are not older diesel volkswagons where you expect the head gasket to fail every 200k or so. That aluminum head on a cast iron block does have a price.

dragging this back to the top:

I have:
valve cover gasket
head gasket
injector heat shields
valve stem seals
timing chain with master link
new head bolts and washers
manifold gasket

I'm looking into:
12point tool
timing chain crimper

Should I do the tensioner as well? Am I missing anything?

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Yes, replace the guide and tensioner as well since you are doing the timing chain.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

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