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  #1  
Old 11-19-2008, 02:53 PM
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remove timing chain tensioner OM616

I have the FSM for the 617, and it says I have to drain the rad and remove the t-stat housing. So I need to do this on a 616? It seems like I have access to both the bolts on the tensioner housing with the t-stat housing in place.

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Old 11-19-2008, 04:30 PM
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If you think that there is enough room you could go ahead and try it. If while you are working you find you would be better off with more room just follow the FSM.
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2008, 08:41 AM
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LOL,
Here is how I would answer that... the 617 is a five cylinder engine. the 616 is a four cylinder engine. They are almost the same engine except for ONE cylinder. If you look inside a 617 engine compartment you will see very little space between the firewall and the engine. If you look at your 240d you will see an open space there...
IE, the space saved by that extra cylinder being removed from the engine compartment is AT THE REAR.... not of help to working on the front of the engine. Not having the turbo in there is helpful... but not for your front pointing access..
If you mess up the radiator how much will the penalty be compared to the extra time taking it out and protecting it in the garage ?
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Old 11-20-2008, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zeke View Post
I have the FSM for the 617, and it says I have to drain the rad and remove the t-stat housing. So I need to do this on a 616? It seems like I have access to both the bolts on the tensioner housing with the t-stat housing in place.
No need to remove the radiator just pull the plug, then what I do is put a piece of plastic over the alternator put your 'catch pan" under the T stat and remove it then the tensioner. Good time to replace the "short hose".
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2008, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
LOL,
...
IE, the space saved by that extra cylinder being removed from the engine compartment is AT THE REAR...
Not entirely. The manifold on the 616 is also shaped differently, especially IF you're working on a 617 with EGR, which most are. With EGR, you have an extra bulge in the thermo housing for the thermo-switch ... which most 616's don't have.

I can get to the bolts on my '79 616, but not my '81 617.

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