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  #1  
Old 11-27-2008, 09:44 PM
BioDieseLandon's Avatar
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Cruise Control Amp soldering

Does anyone know how to fix a cruise control amp on a W126? it seems to me i read somewhere that there is something you can solder back together.

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  #2  
Old 11-27-2008, 10:01 PM
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Sometimes cold solder joints are the problem.. you just reflow all the solder joints and add some to any suspect areas.

FWIW I tried this on my car. It worked great for 3 weeks... then it went back to being broken.

-J
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  #3  
Old 11-27-2008, 10:02 PM
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I re-soldered everything and the cruise worked once, then stopped.
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  #4  
Old 11-27-2008, 10:08 PM
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Where is the cruise amp located? My 300D will accelerate using the CC stalk, but it won't hold the speed.
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  #5  
Old 11-27-2008, 10:09 PM
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remove the underdash panel and you should see a big silver box down by the brake pedal. Thats the amp. Its a PITA to remove due to the space.
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  #6  
Old 11-27-2008, 10:12 PM
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As has been explained on this issue in the past here on the forum, the resoldering seems to "re-fire" several capacitors that go bad in these amps. Seems like there are 6 or 8. The soldering causes these caps to work again for awhile, but they will go bad again.
Seems like there is something posted about replacing the caps, including part #'s from Radio Shack or a similar supplier....
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  #7  
Old 11-27-2008, 10:26 PM
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well it is worth a shot i have a long drive tomorrow so it would be at least worth having it for the weekend
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  #8  
Old 11-27-2008, 11:12 PM
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It's a lot easier to do if you get the lacquer off. Soak the unit in acetone.
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  #9  
Old 11-27-2008, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79Mercy View Post
remove the underdash panel and you should see a big silver box down by the brake pedal. Thats the amp. Its a PITA to remove due to the space.
Yes, it is! Use a wobble 10mm socket. Take the seat all the way back.
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  #10  
Old 11-27-2008, 11:36 PM
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Ya that bolt is a PITA to get at! Thankfully I have short arms.

FYI on the W126 at least the buzzer unit is on the same bracket as the cruise amp. The driver's side door switch is connected to the buzzer unit. If you unplug it the dome light and door lights won't work.
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  #11  
Old 11-27-2008, 11:39 PM
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a quicker "cheat is to carefully bend the aluminum tabs straight and slip board out since you have to remove it anyway. Get yourself some acetone, and a brass brush. I found mine in Walmart of all places. Dip brush in acetone and gently brush the connection side of the board. You want to see silver color on the solder connections. Once you have the lacquer cleaned off, you can take a pencil type soldering iron approx 25-35 watts and resolder the connections. With a magnifier you will see the "ring" cracks. From years of hot/cold cycles the solder joints expand and contract and crack. Be very careful resoldering around the IC's (black rectangular guys with multiple legs). Be careful of solder bridges, which is where the solder accidentaly flows accross two connections. While your out purchasing things, hit up your local Radio Shack, or Electronics supply house and get a roll of "solder wick" Great stuff! If you do happen to bridge any connections, you will be able to "wick up" the excess solder. When your done, just look the board over carefully and then slide unit back up into the aluminum box. With a pair of needle nose pliers or carefully with a screwdriver you can rebend your tabs back over and it will keep module in the housing!

Happy Turkey day!!!
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2008, 11:41 PM
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Radio shack also has a nice desoldering iron. It's an iron with a hollow tip and a sucker bulb: you can suck the solder right out of the joints.

-Jason
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2008, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL View Post
As has been explained on this issue in the past here on the forum, the resoldering seems to "re-fire" several capacitors that go bad in these amps. Seems like there are 6 or 8. The soldering causes these caps to work again for awhile, but they will go bad again.
Seems like there is something posted about replacing the caps, including part #'s from Radio Shack or a similar supplier....

Jimmy L is quite correct about this, I've resoldered the amp on my W126 on three separate occasions. First time worked great for about a year, 2nd time for about 6 months, 3rd time was a charm....about 2 weeks! Perhaps time for a professional rebuilt unit if I really want a working cruise control.
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2008, 02:08 AM
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Fyi . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by BENZSTER View Post
. . . Perhaps time for a professional rebuilt unit if I really want a working cruise control.
Something you need to know before resoldering . . . Last time I read the advertisements for the people who rebuild and sell cruise amps and similar things, they won't accept your amp as a "core" if it has been resoldered at home. Without your virgin core they will want more money for their rebuilt unit.

For example, see this link. I am not affiliated with them, just happened to read their blurb.

Jeremy
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2008, 06:20 PM
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The Official Audiovox CCS-100 Install Thread

It took less time to do this install than it did to resolder (unsucessfully) my original amps ( I tried 2 of them) Works as well as the stock set-up.

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