The chain guide rail next to the tensioner comes off by removing those pins....
You will have to make a puller using a bolt, sockets and washers to remove the little pins....
If I remember right the lower one is accessed through a groove in the balancer assy...
I can check my engines location of those if you get stuck....

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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Can't get the timing device out. I performed every step in the FSM through step 11, but now I'm stuck.

I don't think it's the chain, but at the 5 o'clock position, it seems as though there's something in the housing that's preventing the chain from completely escaping the teeth. But again, I don't think that's the problem. There's about 1/4 inch where the device can move forward and back, and even when pulled fully forward, there's still a gap between the chain and the housing.

Edit: I guess the thing at 5 o'clock is a guide rail, and I forgot to remove that pin.

I'm still unclear what the remaing portion of the broken bolt is attached to. If it's not attached to the device itself, I would think the device should pull right out. If it's attached to the device AND anything else, the bolt piece is probably what holding it up. Looking at the diagram, I would assume that the bolt is in the bushing only, and if so, I don't know why the timing device can't come out.

Thanks

Did your FSM mention the little hold down bolt at about where you describe...?...On the outer case...I forgot about that.....It has to come out to let the chain fall away from that area....sorry about that.......
Always good to post when you hit a snag.....smart move....
But sounds like you are making good progress...

__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Yeah, I remembered the retaining screw after 15 minutes of frustration, but I forgot about the guide rail pin (93 in the FSM) for an hour. I got the upper pin (89) on the first try.

The lower pin is already a pain. The AC compressor is in front of it, so I can't get my improvised puller in there. I came back to the forum to look up how to loosen the AC in order to provide clearance. It isn't obvious to me just by eyeballing it.

Thanks a lot

Leave the hoses attached if the system is charged....If that is the GM big round (R5) compressor I believe ...there are three bolts with sleeves that can come loose to swing it out of the way... or you may can unbolt the bracket that holds that whole mess to the block.....I have mine off now...got a new compressor ready to go back on....

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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Managed to get the lower pin out, and the chain is completely out of the way. I made a "support plate" (FSM step 12) out of a coffee can to keep the chain out of the way, and I can spin the timing device freely. After a close look, the bolt doesn't rotate with the device, so it looks like the broken piece is in the bushing, which doesn't rotate either.

Unfortunately, I can't get the timing device off the bushing. I have no idea what's holding iot on. I don't need to remove the other two bolts from the front of the timing device, do I?

Thanks for the help!

I'm assuming that the woodruff key is broken, and that is what's keeping the device from coming off. If the key was intact, the shaft would rotate along with the device, correct?

Does anyone know how to remove a broken woodruff key?

Thanks

Looking at the FSM, I'd say thats a pretty safe assumption.

You have removed the nut that secures the shaft, correct?

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The small front woodruff key is designed to sheer in case of a mechanical pump failure or a hydraulic lock. You would certainly have had the latter if you put the D-valve in upside-down! The intermediate shaft withdraws backwards towards the pump and is connected to the pump with a parallel splined sleeve. If the timer is tight use an extractor in conjunction with the 2 vac pump cam threads otherwise you could pull out the front inter- shaft bearing which is retained with a single screw and washer.

To remove the sheered woodruff key tap on one end of it with a thin punch and it will roll out.

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Beagle

On mine, it was a screw, and it removed itself. Well half of it did anyways. The other half is still in the shaft.

Do you remember the gauge registering any oil pressure while cranking?

As Mr.Beagle suggested,have a closer look at the interm.shaft and the key,as it might have sheared and part of it got stuck between the timing device and the shaft...
Inj.timing devices on vehicles with piston vaccum pumps have the solid bolt,as seen on the attachments..

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I did notice that, and thankfully, there was pressure. It didn't rise very fast, but I assume that was due to the difference between cranking speed and running speed.

Thanks!

I got the timing device off using Beagle's suggestion about an extractor. I borrowed my neighbor's bearing puller with out much success. Here's how I did it:

I used the two long bolts from the thermostat housing bracket, which have the same threads as the ones on the timing device. I have a small combination wrench that was the same length as the distance between the bolts on the timing device, and I used that to bridge the span. Between the wrench and the shaft, I inserted a combination of flat wrenches and a socket which just fit into the center of the device. Tightened the bolts gradually, doing a little at a time, and the device moved forward, finally coming off! I know for a lot of you guys something like that is a no brainer, but for me it was a flash of brilliance.

The center of the device and the shaft have the remnants of the woodruff key smeared all over them, with the key hole of the shaft indistinghable from the rest of the metal. Also, the extra metal on the shaft is preventing the bushing from sliding off.

I'd like to fix this without removing the IP, because if I need to remove the IP to access something, I'll need to remove one from the pick and pull as well in order to get a replacement part, if they have them at all. I guess I'll make an attempt to remove the remainder of the bolt next, and clean up the shaft as well as I can, but for right now, I'm going to take a coffee break and celebrate! That timing device was a monster.

You can see what's left of the woodruff key. 2 cylinders of smeared metal.

I think the IP's next. Doesn't sound fun.

Any tips, comments, encouragement, or even criticisms are welcome. I'm in some uncharted territory here, but I figure it's worthwhile to keep posting.

Thanks for all of the help so far.

Theo

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Good work. Why the IP? Can't you just replace the woodruff key and bolt and reassemble?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13