HAHAHA,

How serendipitous that you mention that becasue I was logging on specifically to ask about shooting a bit of ether in the engine. I'm a methodical guy who knows shortcuts only lead to problems, but I really need to get it out of my employers parking lot and arranging towing has been difficult.

Problem is, even using WD40, the intake doesn't seem to be taking in enough air. I took off the air cleaner cover and had someone crank the engine and I hardly felt any air being sucked in at all.

How much vaccuum should I feel when placing my hand into the air intake?

You will actually feel it more at the snorkel, with the air cleaner lid on. I can't really quantify how much suction you would feel, as I have not had to do that.

Do you have AAA? They will tow your car to your house.

Where in this fine state are you?

Are you spraying WD-40 while the engine is cranking?

Are you sure the glow plugs are all glowing?

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

When it's running, you'll wonder if you can keep the hand. Typical vacuum is about 9" Hg, or 10 PSI. 20 or 30 lbs of force over than throat area.

North side San Antonio, and no, no AAA unfortunately...

So, at crank, how much air should it be moving?

Ether is too explosive to use. It tends to damage glow plugs and prechambers.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Just cutrious, how old are the fuel filters? Restriction can be an issue. You said you saw fuel in the plastic filter, have you tried the priming procedure to see if there is any air in the system. Even if you see fuel you might be sucking in air, is there a possibility the hissing you hear is a broken rubber line by the tank? Just a couple things to think about.

Well I finally got the opportunity to get some real work done.

It wasn't much since I don't have the right (read: small enough) tools to fit properly into the cevices of the engine without removing the injector lines, but I was able to get two GP's out and they were drenched in fresh diesel, with a somehwat thick scale of carbon on them to boot.

These GP's look old, and I'm almost certain I was only running on one or two good GP's to begin with, which has now been reduced to one or none, thus causing the starting problem.

Unfortunately the car is still in my employers parking lot, and it's cold now goddamnit (at least for a Texan), so it's still going to be a pain to get all these GP's out and replaced.

Better than a head gasket I suppose!

I use ether /cold start on my 2 diesel Ford trucks so as my merc too.
My marine diesel mech fnd says is ok, I not sure what is the real issues, have heard Cold start do damage engines.

Or change both fuel filter, sounds like more of the glow plugs not firing, u can get voltage, if u have a volt /ohmteter test the GP itseilf, u need to undo the wire. If its an open circuit then it F*cked. The GP has either high or low resistance, open circuit def not joined at all.
Good Luck.

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I'm almost ready to start replacing the GP's. After cruising the forums I've found a lot of threads about this and reaming is always recommended. I got a set of Beru's for 12.95/pc. and I'd like to do this right the first time, but I don't have a reamer, and in fact I don't really have the time or space to do this procedure properly.

I read somewhere that someone said the GP's could short out immediately if they get carbon on them; is this true? I'm aware now that reaming out the PC can increase the life of the GP's significantly but is it absolutely a necessity if I want to get my car back on the road?

Is there any way by looking at the old glow plugs or any other way to tell how bad the carbonization is inside the prechamber?