I check my glow plugs for ohms and they all red .7 my meter reads .3 so that is .4 right? Is that too low? I don't have my tools at the moment so cant pull them but checked relay and it tested fine.
Is the ohm reading too low??
Thanks in advance for the help.
Liz

Ohms seem ok. Have you checked for voltage at the plugs?

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Did this just all of a sudden happen?

What is the ambient air temperature where you are at?

__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

The temp is in the 70's and I checked the volage at the relay on the pins and they all read good voltage.
My car is old and tired and had a hard time starting lately in the morning but now it is any time of day.

When was the last time the valves were adjusted?

__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

valves adjusted 1 1/2 or 2 years ago. was told at that time I had low compression

Valves should be adjusted every 15,000 miles. Tight valves does cause lower compression. Running on valves not adjusted too long (I do not have a definition of too long) can cause valves to become burned.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

I would do a valve adjustment and see if that helps.

__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

I was going to take it to a shop for a valve adjustment but it wouldn't start today. Hooked it up to my husbands 240d and it still wouldnt start. The battery reads over 12 volts but when I crank the engine it sounds weak. Even when jumped by the 240d it sounds weak.
I checked the glowplugs at the plug(still in the car) while the glow plugs are cycling and they all read 9. somthing volts. The relay pins read in the 12's last time I checked (a couple days ago).
Any more suggestions before I tow it to the shop?
Thanks again for the advice.

Liz:

I would do the following as last-ditch things to try before having it towed:

1) Open the oil fill cap (on the cam cover) and look down at the cam with a flashlight while somebody runs the starter. Make sure the cam is rotating when the engine is cranking (to check for a broken timing chain)

2) Remove the secondary fuel filter and make sure it's full of fuel. If it isn't, fill it with fuel and put it back on.

3) Pump the hand primer pump about 50 times until you hear fuel squishing in the lines.

4) Remove the fuel filler cap (temporary test to make sure there's no vacuum in the tank)

5) Run the glow plugs for a normal cycle and try to start it. If your battery is weak jump it from your other car to get a good fast cranking speed. If it won't start, crack open the hard line nuts at each injector while cranking and see if you're getting fuel at all of them.

If she still won't start then maybe the compression is really bad. But I agree with the posters above, even if that's the case the bad compression could just be the result of the valves being out of adjustment.

__________________
'81 300CD - 180K, cannot be killed by any conventional means
'99 Ford Escort - good MPG

OK so I got my valves adjusted and I thought all was well. I drove around all day and stopped and started the car with no problem.
Now it won't start again!
I pulled the battery and got a new one (under warrenty) and brought it home and put it in and it still won't start!
What now?

Does the same thing happen as before? Or does it sound/act different?

Don't suppose the shop that adjusted the valves checked the compression, did they? If so, post what it currently is. Did they mention if the valves were way off or were most of them good? Did the shop mention anything else?

I would start with a phone call to them.

The fact that it ran and then didn't the same day a few hours later points to something other than compression/weak engine. Unless you barely got it started earlier in the day.

__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

Sorry. This is a different day. He told me all the valves were tight. Didnt ask about compression. Last time I got the valves adjusted I was told I had low compression.
When I try to start it it turns over and just dosnt get going. Then the starter starts to turn slower. I can smell the burnt diesel.

How well did it start when you left the shop? How many days did you drive it before it stopped starting again? Are there any different symptoms this time versus before the shop adjusted the valves?

I would call them and ask if they noticed anything, then tell them it is not starting again and see what they say.

__________________
2009 ML320 Bluetec
1985 300CD
1981 300TD

Past Mercedes
1979 300TD
1982 300TD
2000 E320 4Matic Wagon
1998 E430
1984 300SD
1980 300SD

Shop kept it overnight to make sur it would start in the morning. start fine when I picked it up and the rest of the day. Next day hard to start but started ok later. Now back to not starting. Starter sounds slow after cranking a couple of seconds but turn over. How do I know if my starter is cranking fast enough?
Thanks