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#1
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Increasing Ride and Handling SDL
Over my winter break from college my grandfather and i were going to do some work on my 1987 300SDL. As far as i can tell, and have been told this car has worn shocks, control arms, etc. I think everything is original on this 190k miles 21+ y/o car.
Now i only want to spend between $200-$300 on parts. I have access to a lift and any equipment an old stock car garage would have. And my grandfather's 50 years of knowledge on cars should be sufficient when doing minor work. Where is this money best allocated to increase my ride/handling as far as parts go? Guesses, assumptions, and any advice surrounding this experience is more then welcomed. Thanks |
#2
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Wider tires... i am planning to replace my 195/70 R14 to 205/70 R14 i can tell that wider tires really helps in smooth ride and beef up your handling
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Current Garage 2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress 1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs 2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver 1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car 1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap?? Sold 1987 300SDL 200K+ 1994 S320 181K mi 2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi 1999 S420 130K mi 1980 240D 360k mi 15+ Others that has come, stay and gone GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN 1995 E320 SE 220k mi 1984 300SD 350k mi |
#3
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If the car has a lot of original (and therefore worn) suspension pieces, new tires won't help and will wear out more quickly. Unfortunately, even if you do the work yourself, suspension parts are expensive. For example, a new set of Bilstein shocks will blow your entire budget. Cheaper shocks are available, of course, and even though they may not last very many years, might last enough to get you into a better financial position.
Might you find a mechanic who, for a few bucks (better: free!) would look at the suspension and tell you which parts look most dangerous? You could start with those. It's hard for us to tell from here which parts those might be – shocks, ball joints, steering damper, various links in the rear suspension, etc. Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#4
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I found the frontend shop that all the used car\body shops etc take their vehicles to......and he's been in business a long time.....and has done a lot of old Mercedes. I told him I wanted to know the condition of the frontend and what parts I needed to replace, etc. and that after I did the work, he would get the frontend alignment.
He told me to keep an eye on such and such and nothing needed to be replaced right now......but to start saving my money. So, I replaced the shocks. Went into a local place and they had a manufacturer's rebate going on.....YEE HAW!!! As I recall, I spent about $40 per shock --- did all 4 of them. The ride is much better. And the handling.....well, it's like night and day difference!!!
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#5
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Quote:
If you're doing it right, then spend the money. If not........then leave it as it is. This is not a guess or an assumption. |
#6
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I'm in the same shoes you are right now, just had the alignment done and have a little sloppiness after about 3K miles, its new and I don't like it. At the same time, the gentleman from Blue Point speaks the truth.
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84 300D, 303K 71 MGBGT, ?K 96 GMC C1500, 115K |
#7
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shocks
i found some bilstiens that could fit my budget, should i bother replacing them, or just leave it be?
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#8
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A local indie Mercedes told me it would run about $1100 to do the front end on my 86 SDL. I did the steering damper, tie rods, center link, idler arm repair kit myself for around $160, that included a ball joint seperator tool I bought at Napa, not a pickle fork. Of course the control arms and rest of front end still need to be done. My brakes are also starting to sound like they need work. Slowly replacing the rubber bits and stuff that just needs to be replaced eventually, even on Mercedes, and the car feels better with everything I replace. I figure a couple of grand more and it should be almost as good as new.
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86 300SDL |
#9
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I have recently done the steering damper, shocks (get the Bilz HD shocks not the regular ones) The Lower control arms, upper ball joints, tie rod ends, steering damper, center bearing, various bushings, and guide rod mounts. This all cost me about $500 in parts. I shopped around for the best prices on the hype-r-net and bought things from various suppliers.
I had no access to tools or a lift in WV so it cost me $700 in labor to get it done. The car went from being a wallowing big car to something that feels almost like my BMW in handling! It feels like it is three feet shorter and 1000 pounds lighter
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
#10
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The cheapest prices that you can find on the internet usually offer commensurate quality.
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#11
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Sorry, but it sounds a little vague to me. Are you seeing tire wear, having handling problems or hearing clunking noises? Or is this just a "I want to modify for improved handling" question?
After having done my suspension rebuild in portions at a time, I believe shocks would be one of the last items to deal with. Many of the rubber bushings aren't severely expensive and there are several: lower control arm, upper control arm, bearing carrier subframe, sway bar & idler arm. The lower control arm and guide rod needs the MB spring compressor.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#12
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What are the problems? Whats lose?
Everything may not be as good as factory, but unless your ball joints are popping there fine. If your tie rods are lose you can fix those pretty cheap.
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1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#13
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To do the job properly, you should get the wheels aligned after replacing key suspension and steering components. I understand the economics of doing things piecemeal but consider the cost of having the wheels aligned after each installment.
Don't forget the contribution of rear subframe bushings and swaybar links to directional stability. Sixto 87 300D |
#14
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Quote:
I only bought OEM Febi or Moog parts -- no cheap Chinese crap
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
#15
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Well.......your figures must be in error.......because the shocks and the upper control arms alone will be $425. after shipping costs.
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