i am currently working on a 87 300td, and ive gotten to the cam, i know that if if dont break the bolts in the correct order i will break the cam shaft. what is the correct order, to break the bolts so this tragedy doesn't occur.


any help would be appreciated

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Current
2006 E320 CDI, 57K bought at 67K "Liesl"
1986 190E 2.3-16, 198K bought at 56K "Brigitta"
1987 300TD (Chuggin Along), 292K "Friedrich"
1995 E320 Wagon, 200K "Louisa"

Past
1987 300SDL, (sold) 125K, bought for 1$ "Kurt"

According to the FSM (you really should get a copy!):





Note – the "light" and "dark" arrows seem to have been reversed in this, the paper version of the FSM "Service Manual, Diesel Engines 602, 603," published 1991. The bolt numbers are correct.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

i know i have it somewhere, its probably in a box with a spare headlight in it. but thanks a bunch. i know what im doing tomorrow, or today.

__________________
Current
2006 E320 CDI, 57K bought at 67K "Liesl"
1986 190E 2.3-16, 198K bought at 56K "Brigitta"
1987 300TD (Chuggin Along), 292K "Friedrich"
1995 E320 Wagon, 200K "Louisa"

Past
1987 300SDL, (sold) 125K, bought for 1$ "Kurt"

how does it break the camshaft

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

i just want to be sure that i understand this, (cams arn't cheap). what do them mean by counter pressure in this instance. i know what it means in the terms of high school physics. but ya, could i get an explanation

__________________
Current
2006 E320 CDI, 57K bought at 67K "Liesl"
1986 190E 2.3-16, 198K bought at 56K "Brigitta"
1987 300TD (Chuggin Along), 292K "Friedrich"
1995 E320 Wagon, 200K "Louisa"

Past
1987 300SDL, (sold) 125K, bought for 1$ "Kurt"

The camshaft is hardened, and hollow. If you are loosening the camshaft on one end, and there is valve spring pressure against the lobes there, but it is still restrained in the center, it will try to bend which will snap it.

Removing and installng a cam is IMO pretty simple if you just look at where the lobes are pushing valves down and understand the concept.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Not to be picky, but I think the sequence also assumes you start the job with the number one cylinder at TDC. The object is to let the cam "rise" as you loosen the bolts over the cam lobes compressing the valve springs, instead of trying to bow the camshaft.

The installation process will be the "reverse" - you will want to use the cam shaft bearing brackets over or adjacent to, the camshaft lobes that are in a position to compress the valve springs. I usually run the nuts on these by hand, hand tight, and then turn each nut in a cross pattern, one turn at a time, while turning the "loose" ones by hand, until the load bearing ones are all down. Once they are all down, I torque them to the specification numbers, also in a cross pattern, in several steps of torque.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

I need a new/usable camshaft for a 190d of the old type, ie the one in the late 50s / early 60s that was called the OM 621. If anyone has a dead engine and wants to sell the cam or the whole engine, let me know.

THANKS!