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#1
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Must you ream out before installing new glow plugs?
I need some new glow plugs, the car is 17 years old, and just guessing they're the originals. It doesn't get that cold here in GA, but now the glow plug warning light comes on.
When I take out the old ones, do I have to ream the socket area out before installing new ones? I don't have the reamer tool if needed. What other tools do I need? I recently got rid of my 100 piece socket set, and only have a crummy 15 piece set. Also, any substitute for anti-seize that I might have around the house, like a lithium spray? I hate buying new chemicals that I only need a touch of, next thing you know, I have 200 cans and jars of stuff sucking up space in my garage. Thanks, Jeff 1991 300d, 128k Last edited by jbach36; 12-16-2008 at 11:30 PM. Reason: incomplete |
#2
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You don't HAVE to, but it makes sense to do it then since it allows your plugs to work at their full potential.
You can buy very small containers of anti-seize.
__________________
Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#3
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I reamed mine when I replaced them earlier this year. I figured it couldn't hurt.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#4
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I reamed mine with a drill bit. There was a lot of carbon in mine. I couldn't even get a 1/4" drill bit in there at first.
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#5
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If you have a 617, no. If you have one of the engines more prone to stuck plugs, I would!
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#6
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Say you had an engine that was prone to stuck plugs, with about 50k miles on it. Would you pull all the plugs and put some anti-cease on them?
-Jason
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#7
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Quote:
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#8
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The glow plug light is supposed to come on.
It's when it does NOT come on you have a problem with probably two or more plugs.
__________________
Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#9
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I would
I didn't know about the reaming procedure the first time I changed mine (about 2 years ago). Pulling them then was easy. When I did mine again about a month ago they were hard to get out and the third refused to go back in. That is when I got on here and did some searching. I used a couple of drill bits to ream out what I could and used the shop vac to get out the carbon. I have since ordered the reamer from Diesel911 (a member on this forum). I haven't used the tool yet, but it seems of high quality. By not getting rid of the carbon build up, you shorten the life of the plugs. BTW, you can get a packet of anti-seize at any auto parts store for a little bit of nothing. Rachet end wrenches work REALLY nice on this job.
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Brad 1981 300TD - daily driver 1963 Chevy II 2001 F-250 7.3 Power Stroke |
#10
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True ... I was assuming he meant the blinking glow light, since he said glow plug "warning light".
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#11
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The nuts are captured on the 60x engines, so they don't fall off and you don't lose them.
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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous “Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss |
#12
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I think you can borrow or rent the reamer from the forum tool sharing section.... so not doing it really would not seem a reasonable thing to do given the purpose of the glow plugs and the suggestion of the FSM and reports of people who have done it as to the stuff that came out.
DO NOT use a drill unless you are a gambler and like the thrill of making a big problem...or not getting the carbon out... Be sure that if you do put something on the threads that it conducts electricity well... the plugs need to be well connected electrically to the block.. just like spark plugs on gas cars.. |
#13
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I often wondered why we are using Anti-seize grease on the glowplugs threads instead of DiElectric grease........I have thought about it everytime I have changed out glow plugs. Anti-Seize is not a conductive grease and probably reduces the conductivity of the plugs. Would DiElectric grease be better?
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FRED Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K 87 300SDL, 251K 94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K |
#14
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Quote:
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#15
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I went thru 3 sets.Finally I reamed.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
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