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  #1  
Old 12-09-2008, 02:23 PM
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Injection Pump Test

I'm trying to fix my friends car, 300D 1975. I redid the fuel system to make sure there were not fuel delivery problems. I took all the lines off the IP to see if fuel was coming out. When cranking the very last port on the IP shoots fuel but none of the rest do anything.

Since I was cranking before the battery was drained at this point and though it would still turn the engine over it wasn't very fast.

Should all the injection pump ports squirt like the last one? Does the turning speed of the engine matter? Does air get pushed out in a certain order so that I should crank with charged a battery until they all squirt?

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 12-09-2008, 02:30 PM
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Make sure you filled filters with fuel or atf.Get a car to jump her,and get that cranking speed up.
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2008, 04:26 PM
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If car had been sitting for a long while make sure the number one to four pistons in the injection pump are moving. If they are it could still be air. Normally all the ports should squirt.
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  #4  
Old 12-09-2008, 04:42 PM
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I have re-did things before and connected the wrong hose to the wrong place. Might want to re-check.
Fill a can with clean Diesel Fuel and run the Fuel Supply Pump inlet hose to the fuel in the can and see if it will get sucked up and your IP stat spurting fuel (after pumping on the hand primer 20-50 times).
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  #5  
Old 12-09-2008, 05:52 PM
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Thanks for the replies.

I took out the stock filter housing. I welded the return line T shut to still make a return line connection. Then I put in an aftermarket spin on filter and filter head with all o-ring boss and compression JIC to pushlock hose fittings. I then siphoned fuel from the tank, through the filter and through the hose going to the fuel pump. I obviously lost some prime to reconnect the line but the filter is filled.

What I'm hearing is that the IP may still need to push out air and that I just need a higher crank speed to do so. Anyone comment?
How do you make sure the 1-4 ports are moving?
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  #6  
Old 12-10-2008, 03:23 PM
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Also,
Can you swap a 75 300D injection pump with a 81-85 300TD injection pump?
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  #7  
Old 12-10-2008, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veganxxx View Post
Also,
Can you swap a 75 300D injection pump with a 81-85 300TD injection pump?
No
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  #8  
Old 12-11-2008, 03:48 PM
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Silly question. Is the car on level ground? I once ran out of fuel on steep hill, nose up. It trapped a pocket of air in the IP that I wasnt able to purge til I moved the car to flat ground.
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  #9  
Old 12-11-2008, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by veganxxx View Post
Thanks for the replies.

I took out the stock filter housing. I welded the return line T shut to still make a return line connection. Then I put in an aftermarket spin on filter and filter head with all o-ring boss and compression JIC to pushlock hose fittings. I then siphoned fuel from the tank, through the filter and through the hose going to the fuel pump. I obviously lost some prime to reconnect the line but the filter is filled.

What I'm hearing is that the IP may still need to push out air and that I just need a higher crank speed to do so. Anyone comment?
How do you make sure the 1-4 ports are moving?

I lost track. Did you do the above before you had your problem or after?

If you open/loosen the Injector lines at the Injectors you will not need to have a high cranking speed to bleed the air from the system since the un-tightened hard line nut gives a place for the air to leak out fast instead of compressing as it dose when it is trapped.
When air gets trapped in the Hard lines it has to create enough pressure to inject itself out of the injectors (in my case 135 bar). But that is hard for air to do as it has to be compressed a lot befoe it will develop enough pressure.
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2008, 08:06 PM
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My friend's car wouldn't start. After siphoning fuel with a vac pump I determined that there was air coming with fuel through the fuel filter. From the tank the line was completely solid.

Instead of dealing with the return line dropping back into the tank and old banjo bolts and crush washers I just did away with the housing and put on our own that uses all air tight compression fittings to eliminate air leaks.

Then after priming the filter with the vac pump I reconnected it to the inlet of the fuel pump that feeds the injection pump.

When it still didn't kick over, I took off all the lines on the IP to see if they were getting wet. The back one squirted up in the air so I reconnected the line. None of the others did anything but the motor would try and catch with the one cylinder getting fuel.

The car is parked on a slight upward incline, so that may be a possibility.

We're going to get it towed to our shop because of the upcoming inclement weather so I'll be able to diagnosis it better and have it level.

Thanks for the replies. Any more ideas keep it coming.
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  #11  
Old 12-11-2008, 10:02 PM
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Suggestions?
Change the changes back to the way MB designed it and see if you have issues. Not that changes are bad, but sounds like that is the cause of your problems. Report back.
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  #12  
Old 12-11-2008, 10:28 PM
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I'd bet the ip is ok. Need to get solid fuel in though.

I had the lines on my Fuel filter housing switched once after removing and reinstalling my IP (603 IP new seals job) and I thought I hosed up the pump. Turned out that with the fuel filter lines switched (the brown -- used to be clear lines with banjo fittings) the IP couldn't prime itself. Switched them back the right way and it was fine.

Make sure the IP's return and supply lines look good.

Also, make sure the rest of the lines look good. If the IP's getting air from ANYWHERE, it will not pump fuel. Air is lighter than diesel.

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