I'm in the process of removing the cylinder head.
As the title says I broke the draw bolt in the timing chain guide tensioner lower pin. Then I broke the easy out in the bolt.
A small tip if the pin is exposed. I propose welding a couple of inches 1/4 20 stock to the tensioner pin. Then use a socket and a nut to draw out the guide pin. I don't expect the aluminum head to fuse with the ferrous pin, welding wire or 1/4 20 stock.

That's the best I could come up with. I'm very open to other solutions.

I would let a machine shop work on that one...especially since the ez out broke...

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

I hate ez outs!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

is this a 60x engine?


not too familiar, but if you have access to the sides of the pin from inside, use a sharpened awl and send it into the pin from the side. CHange the angle of the awl and start driving it out. You may have to break the guide and replace it to expose the side of the pin.

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I think I used a nail set / punch sharped to pencil point sharpness

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I do not remember the name of it anymore (hope someone will be able to give the real name) but if your method fails it can be burned out.
The electric machine has a hollow electrode the coolant goes trough so that it will not over heat things and it slowly burns through the bolt.
After picking out what is left of the bolt threads the chase the hole with a tap (unless it is pressed in).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the input.
Its a OM603 head. Its the lower guide pin, I can't see much of it from the top.
If the head was removed from the engine I would take it to a machine shop.
If welding 1/4 20 stock to guide pin fails, I'll have to remove the timing chain and that will entail timing issues with the IP. From what I've read on this forum, I wish to avoid setting the IP timing.

EDIT: Just saw your post on engine type. The rest of this does not apply. I don't know anything about a 603. Sorry. Jim

It would be helpful to know what engine. If this is a 615 (and possibly a 616 or 617) it is impossible to remove the head until you get the tensioning rail out because it is pinned (where you have your issue) and the top part that protrudes through the head is thicker than the bottom. You might cut the rail since you are replacing it anyway in all likelihood but that won't get the pin out so you can take the rest of the rail out.

Assuming that is your problem I would focus on getting the Easy-Out and threaded rod you put in the pin, out. Then I would drill the pin out to the next size and tap it for a larger thread if the threads have been damaged.

I am curious how you broke the thing off. When I took the pin out I built a puller consisting of a bolt, a stack of washers and a nut. I threaded the nut all the way up the bolt, then stacked the washers under the nut and threaded the bolt into the hole in the pin. I turned the nut "down" the bolt and the pin came right out, nice and smooth. The MB manual suggested using some kind of slide hammer tool that I didn't have and the "puller" I made worked fine.

I used the same bolt to put the pin back in. Lined things up and tapped on the bolt head to drive the pin back in.

I know this is of little help since you have already started down a path, but getting the item you screwed into the pin out is the key. Have you tried tapping on it with a hammer to take any axial load from thread deformation out? It may loosen the threads and allow you to unscrew the part by grabbing what is left of the thread...otherwise I think you are stuck with your present plan. Those EDM tools are not portable to my knowledge.

Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

I broke the draw bolt when the guide pin was drawn against the washer. The lower guide pin on the OM603 is flush with the head, such that the washer can slip down so that its pushing against the lip of the pin instead of the head. Next time I'll make a tool that centers the draw bolt which then forces the tool against the head and allows space for the pin to be drawn into.

Its a #14 head and it leaks water into #4 and #5 cylinders, so it might need to be replaced if its cracked, as so many are when they overheat. The PO replaced the radiator and I assume it overheated.

Ok, first I would go to a machine shop supply and see if you can buy some drill stem quality tubes. Then you grind notches on the end and you cut through the original bolt but around the ez-out.

If that is not possible you could make your own EDM machine for very little money ... but would need to be careful about the electricity...
There are plans available... make the one which uses a lightbulb for the frequency of discharge AND the amount of current... something of a fail safe system .. the bulbs are used both as fuses and as the method for adjusting the working of the system... You can use kerosene as long as you keep the electrode under it... a couple of power rectifiers, a couple of electrolytic capacitors , the bulbs, a way to incrementally move the electrode into the metal... you can use carbon from the inside of an old carbon D cell battery or buy the real stuff... carbon arc rods can be used also....

I'll see about some stem tubes. That sounds like a good idea.

The EDM sounds a bit like a plasma cutting machine...I have a 50Amp plasma cutter. I think the plasma discharge would melt the aluminum, since it melts at about 1200 degrees F. I do not despair yet, I believe if I can weld on some threaded stock and pull the pin out. But, having a plan B, C and D is good. I'll google EDM. I'm an EE so I can probably follow some DIY plans. Thanks.

The tube cutter works a lot of the time..

an EE !!! you will have no problem...
I am pretty sure the plasma OR the welding is not the way to go...
for one thing... the EDM is done UNDER liquid...thus any " HOT " contact is at the microscopic level and is not going to travel to the good metal...
The EDM I am referring to was in something like Popular Mechanics, etc...
However, Lindsey books... the people who republish old books about stuff like blacksmithing... I am sure have several books on EDM....
One of the tricks is that you need a way to advance the cutting rod... carbon makes an excellant one since it can be made the right size easily... very slowly... and with NO backlash...so you are going to want a screw mechanism and a spring to keep it tight.. the normal clearance on a bolt and what it is threaded into is too loose...
You can also use a battery for the direct current ... but would need a way to pulse it... which is obviated by the use of 120 volts in the other circuit referred to..
So the idea, if this is a horizontal cut which is needed... is to build a container with stuff and seal it up to the area with silicone. Then engineer this so the cutting tip is one polarity and isolated from everything else... the item to be cut is the other polarity. You place the cutting tip almost into contact with the offending bolt/ezOut and you will hear crackling of the electricity jumping the gap.. you back off the bolt slightly and use the brightness of the combo bulb/fuse to keep the rate of closure constant .
There are discussions as to the proper cutting fluid.... and commercial fluid can be bought... but I would use kerosene ....

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=28218

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=152388

this one is interesting as a review of the methods:

http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.crafts.metalworking/2007-12/msg03159.html

more advanced:

http://cscott.net/Projects/FabClass/final/edesign1.html

and there is a yahoo group playing with EDM....

Concerning Tom's ' I hate ezouts' ... me too... I have had better success using a left hand tap and left hand bolt to extract right hand thread breakoffs....

Don't know how critical the area your broken bolt is in to, but here is a trick we use on broken bolts at the factory. We take a die grinder with a small diameter wheel (a used up 3"x1/32" wheel is good) on a mandrel, and grind a slot in the end of the broken bolt. Can use a drill and a mandrel, if you can get the drill flat into the area, die grinders are smaller and 90 degrees turn. If you don't have these wheels and mandrel, can be bought from screw supply houses and industrial supply houses. Then we grind the end of a $1 flat blade screwdriver to same diameter as the slot,and turn the bolt out like a screw. Heat around the bolt with a propane torch, especially effective if the head is aluminum and the bolt is steel. Hit with penetrating oil, Aero-Kram oil (1W ester oil) if you can get it, while hot. Then try to turn out.

I like your idea, I'll give it a try. Thanks

IndianaJo's method is harder in a situation where you have the broken ez out in the way.
and you would not want to do too much heating on aluminum ..

Here is a good reference URL for anyone working on metal cars....

http://www.angelfire.com/ks/mcguirk/metalworklinks.html