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  #31  
Old 12-13-2008, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Assuming you teed into the boost line just before ALDA, that should be correct. You should also try teeing into the line before the overboost solenoid; it's possible that the solenoid is broken or clogged, hence not allowing boost from the intake manifold to get to ALDA.

Jeremy
I checked the solinoid by blowing into one side and I got air out of the other....is it reasonable to assume that the solinoid is working correctly?

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  #32  
Old 12-13-2008, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
. . . Unless you cut a hole in the exhaust manifold that's at least 1" in diameter, no exhaust leak will have any meaningful effect on the boost. It might delay the onset slightly, but, above 3000 rpm..........you should be well into the wastegate range and the turbo is dumping excess exhaust.
When I had an exhaust leak due to a broken flex line (exhaust manifold to EGR valve) it definitely delayed turbo spool-up. Repairing (and ultimately, replacing with your EGR kit) the pipe made a difference in what I could see with my boost gauge. As you say, ultimate boost pressure did not change but it definitely was quicker to get there once I had fixed what had seemed to be a very small leak.

Another item that delays onset of boost is the trap catalyst. With the 'test pipe' installed in place of the trap cat, my '85 300DT is definitely more responsive.

Jeremy
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  #33  
Old 12-13-2008, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
When I had an exhaust leak due to a broken flex line (exhaust manifold to EGR valve) it definitely delayed turbo spool-up. Repairing (and ultimately, replacing with your EGR kit) the pipe made a difference in what I could see with my boost gauge. As you say, ultimate boost pressure did not change but it definitely was quicker to get there once I had fixed what had seemed to be a very small leak.

Another item that delays onset of boost is the trap catalyst. With the 'test pipe' installed in place of the trap cat, my '85 300DT is definitely more responsive.

Jeremy
When i originally installed the straight pipe about a month ago, I had quick response and seemed to have alot more power. I might have the sam HP but she got up to speed in a hurry compared to the trap...
stephen
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  #34  
Old 12-13-2008, 04:07 PM
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Can you remove the "U" tube and see if the turbo spins freely?
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  #35  
Old 12-13-2008, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by coonerboy View Post
Can you remove the "U" tube and see if the turbo spins freely?
it doesnt have a u-tube beacuse it is a california car....but i did check to see that both sides of the turbo spin freely and no movement side to side or backwards to front....
-Stephen
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  #36  
Old 12-13-2008, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenc03 View Post
I checked the solinoid by blowing into one side and I got air out of the other....is it reasonable to assume that the solinoid is working correctly?
I think so. An additional check that you could do is to put 12 Volts on the electrical connectors and see if you can no longer blow through the valve.

There should be an additional port in your intake manifold sealed with a threaded plug. You can remove it and install a fitting, then run a line to your boost gauge. It will tell you if there is boost in the manifold, period. If not, there is a turbo problem; if there is boost, then the IP is for some reason not being "told" to give the engine more fuel – a clogged/broken/leaking fitting, hose, solenoid, or ALDA.

In the following picture, see the port on the side of the intake manifold ('85 300DT ex-CA) just forward of the red cap on the transmission dipstick and behind the overboost pressure switch. The plug in that port can be unscrewed with a metric Allen wrench and replaced with a 1/8" pipe thread fitting with a hose barb. Then run a hose to your boost gauge.

Remember that you will get no boost revving the engine in the driveway, or at most a very little bit at ~4000 RPM. The only way to be sure is to drive the car while keeping half an eye on the boost gauge.

Jeremy


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Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
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  #37  
Old 12-13-2008, 04:50 PM
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I tapped into the intake manifold and attached a 1/8" male barb nipple and still the same reading 0 at 3000 RPM and 1psi at 3500 RPM. where do I go from here?
-Stephen
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  #38  
Old 12-13-2008, 08:15 PM
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Stuck-open waste gate?
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #39  
Old 12-13-2008, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Stuck-open waste gate?
What do I have to do to fix it? or do I have to replace it?
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  #40  
Old 12-13-2008, 09:36 PM
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Based on what it looks like in Jeremy's engine pic, just to the left of the wastegate actuator and turbine housing are 4 nuts that attach a pipe/ flange to the turbine housing. If you can get that pipe off, you should be able to see the valve flap that dumps the exhaust when the wastegate opens. If you see its propped open then you found the problem. You may be able to free it up by repeatedly opening and closing the valve. You might also want to get some PB Blaster and lubricate the shaft.
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  #41  
Old 12-13-2008, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by coonerboy View Post
Based on what it looks like in Jeremy's engine pic, just to the left of the wastegate actuator and turbine housing are 4 nuts that attach a pipe/ flange to the turbine housing. If you can get that pipe off, you should be able to see the valve flap that dumps the exhaust when the wastegate opens. If you see its propped open then you found the problem. You may be able to free it up by repeatedly opening and closing the valve. You might also want to get some PB Blaster and lubricate the shaft.
That pipe doesnt connect to the turbine house....it is actually below it and makes it look like it is attached.
So i can take that plate off? i dont want to screw anything up....stephen
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  #42  
Old 12-13-2008, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenc03 View Post
I tapped into the intake manifold and attached a 1/8" male barb nipple and still the same reading 0 at 3000 RPM and 1psi at 3500 RPM. where do I go from here?
-Stephen
Was the vehicle accelerating at maximum power in third gear when you obtained this reading?
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  #43  
Old 12-13-2008, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Was the vehicle accelerating at maximum power in third gear when you obtained this reading?
yes...it could excelerate more but i didnt want to push 4000RPM...it didnt sound healthy
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  #44  
Old 12-13-2008, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by stephenc03 View Post
That pipe doesnt connect to the turbine house....it is actually below it and makes it look like it is attached.
So i can take that plate off? i dont want to screw anything up....stephen
This don't attach to the turbine housing?(area circled in red)
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Turbo works sporadicaly 85 300SD-203.jpg  
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  #45  
Old 12-13-2008, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by coonerboy View Post
This don't attach to the turbine housing?(area circled in red)
No sir not at the plate where the wastegate is but underneath it does.....it is an after market "straight pipe" where the trap. cat. used to be. the pipe continues underneath and attaches itself to the turbo underneath.
-Stephen

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