Hey guys,

Last night I put some seafoam in my fuel tank (about 1/2 can in tank with 9 gals remaining) as well as a 1/4 can in the crankcase. I did a few Italian tuneup runs on the freeway, but they were mild hills. Today on the way to work, I gunned it up a more steeper hill. However by the top of the hill, i could feel the car struggling. On the rest of the drive, which has a few mild uphills, when i pressed the throttle, i could feel it struggling. rpms would get up there, but there was no proportionate increase in power.

When I got to work, it appeared that the fuel in the pre-filter appears slightly darker, so I'm going to NAPA and picking up a few pre-filters and installing one. Hopefully that will solve the issue.

I'm also going to check the nipple off the intake that goes to the overboost valve (solenoid) and clean it off just in case it got gunked up.

So here I am at work and have a very narrow window of opportunity to fix this before my 30 mile commute back home. I really do not want to be stuck on the side of the freeway. Is there anything else I should check? I do plan to replace the fuel tank screen and change my oil and oil filter as well.

Thanks,
Bob

BOTH of your fuel filters should be on that list. Definitely follow with the tank screen.

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Seafoam in the crank case will not help with the problem you are describing.

x2 on changing BOTH filters. Also replace the air filter.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Ok gents, thanks for the advice. To check:

- Primary and pre-fuel filters
- Air filter
- Fuel tank screen

Anything else?

Open the fuel filler cap to be sure you don't have a clogged vent.

Make sure the shut-off lever isn't stuck partway down.

Make sure the floormat isn't bunched up under the accelerator pedal

Sixto
87 300D

I can't get techy on this with you --- and know all of you appreciate that!

But general rule of thumb FOR ME is....A fuel additive that says it can be used in either Diesel or Gasoline......Should not be used in diesel.

FOR ME - a fuel additive that can be used in the fuel tank and also in the engine ---- Should not be used in a Diesel.

I use Seafoam a few times a year in my Rover's fuel tank only, as suggested by my Indy Rover dude, my Rover dude has been working on Rovers for 15 years --- he also says TO ME, not to put it in the Rover Engine.

I guess it works fine - no problems or complaints...but he is now saying for me to use a "Techron" something (have it written down) in The "Lady" -- Some new test data or something that sold him!! Actually will pick up a can this evening, as the "British Lady" is due.... But would never use it in my engine or in my Diesels.

Diesel 'specific' fuel additives without alcohol are the only ones that should be used in Diesel fuel -----This is my firm stand, opinion, and I'm sticking to it!! And yes, another example of the beauty of "the forum".

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71Inka02

62 W121 190DB - Original CA/AZ Car - Excellent Example
99 E300 Turbo Diesel - 362,000...Awesome Daily Driver
01 E320 Wagon - 297,xxx (wife's work car)
01 E320 Wagon - 131,000
02 Land Rover Disco SE- 110,000
87 BMW 325is (E30) Full Restore - Son's
06 Mini Cooper 'S' - Son's
87 Toyota FJ60 Land Cruiser - Showroom Condition - 152,000

84 300D - 142,xxx :cool - "Sold"
83 300D-"Sold" - 211,456
85 300SD-"Sold" - 213,789

Are you sure the transmission wasn't slipping? Could be coincidental and unrelated to the additive you put in.

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1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel)
1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel)
1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine

hey guys,

i just changed out the inline filter and it had some black specks and some brownish ones that are little bigger than specks. i dont think that was enough to cause the issues, but then again, i dont know since this is my first diesel. napa didnt have the big filter nor do i have the right tools to change it right now. hopefully this will allow me to limp home.

i'm going to go on a quick test drive. six, ill check those things you wrote too.

alright gents, right after dinner, i went through the list of things to check. first thing i did was to removed the spin on fuel filter. i drained it in a large jar, but didnt see much sediment or any tell tale sign that full scale contamination occurred. i was planning to do the tank screen last b/c of the lifting issue.

i checked the trans fluid to see if there was a catastrophic leak of fluid like i had 2 months ago. trans fluid is at the perfect level. for kicks, i checked the engine oil and it is at the 1/2 way mark. both good

walked around and checked the fuel filler cap which is non-oem, but makes a good seal. good there. checked the carpet under the skinny pedal, looks fine.

so i had the shut off valve to check and then the air filter. pulled off the air filter cover and this thing is heavy and sopping wet. today was a big rainy day here in LA and i have not put on the bottom underbody plastic panels and the wheel well moulding. i mean, is that the only thing protecting your air intake from ingesting water? i mean, this thing was soppnig wet. not going to drive it tomorrow as all the autoparts stores are closed now.

thanks rrgrassi, six, etc. for your suggestions. i would've not guessed the air filter

The 1987 300D air filter canister pulls air in from the passenger side fender, which has an opening which goes back to allow air to enter at the front door jamb. It's nearly impossible for any water to enter this area, and the panels under the engine & tranny have nothing to do with it. Perhaps the plastic fender liner on the passenger side is damaged or missing, allowing water spray into the intake? That would be the first thing I would check.

BTW - while I don't have much opinion about fuel additives (except that they shouldn't be needed on a regular bases), I do have a strong opinion on oil additives: don't use them. Period. If you feel the need to clean out your engine, use Group IV/V synthetic oil (preferably 5W-40 or 15W-40) such as Mobil-1, Amsoil, or Red Line and don't worry about it. After about 10kmi of this stuff, your engine will be as clean as it's going to get internally.

On a side note, I forget if I already pointed you to this link, but you may want to check out this 1987 300D checklist if you haven't seen it - click here to view the text file.

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

I would never put any seafoam in the crankcase and drive the car.

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91 350SD
14 F150 Eco
19 Fusion Hybrid
11 GT500

Dave,

When I was doing my rust repair, i don't recall seeing or removing an air duct that reaches as far back as the front door jamb. Perhaps this fell off or was removed by the PO. I'll have to check back in my pics log to see what it might've lookedl ike.

Re oil additives, thanks for your opinion/advice. I plan to flush the oil by the end of the month and seeing your advice gives me more urgency to do so.

Check list: that was one of the things that convinced me to buy a 87 300DT. I have your website bookmarked as well. This car is really growing on me. Thanks for all the info and help you provide to everyone over the years.

You are certainly welcome. This forum has helped me many times!

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

A short drive without the air filter and not wet out would not hurt anything in my opinion. Just to establish it was the saturated air filter.

If it was cold enough in your location to freeze the water present on and in the air filter that would really do it. This is especially if you cannot pick up a replacement air filter very easily locally.