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  #1  
Old 12-16-2008, 03:23 PM
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82 240D Not Starting...Please help!

Let me give some background.

I purchsed this 82 240D over the summer with the intent of converting it to a two tank system.

Over the summer I was running 4/1 WVO to Diesel on a ONE tank system. No heating, just mixed it and went.

I settled, filtered then filtered again to 10 microns (I know, I should have gone to one)

When the weather began to get colder I switched to 4/1 WVO to gasoline and when it got below 40 degrees I ran 1 gal of Diesle, 1 gal of Gas and 2.5 gallons of WVO.

I had about five gallons of this mix in the tank and put in five gallons of diesel because the weather was going to get colder.

Drove it home on a Friday. Vehicle sat all weekend and temps went from 55 degress to -2 (yes negative two) by monday morning.

I did not plug the vehicle in to keep the block warm.

Vehicle turned over but would not fire Monday morning.

I though maybe the fuel had gelled. Monday evening I replaced both filters filled the secondary with a diesel fuel supplement.

Cycled the engine and attempted to start. NO GO (turns over, no fire)

I cycled the GP system twice and on the third the GP indicator light on the dash did not come on.

At this point I became concerned.

I did try to get her started with a few squirts of starting fluid.

I am an old mechanic by trade, but not a Diesel mechanic.

I used to find it humorous when "shade tree" mechanics would work on their cars then bring them to me in even worse shape than had they simply had them towed to me in the first place.

I fear I have become what I laughed at!!

ANY information, help, etc would be GREATLY appreciated (and I'll take any abuse heaped on me from my mstakes with humility lol)

Thanks in advance!

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  #2  
Old 12-16-2008, 03:41 PM
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Go to dieselgiant.com and following his glow plug testing procedures. You probably have glow plug problems.
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1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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  #3  
Old 12-16-2008, 04:09 PM
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mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Well, sounds like a GP may have gone out.

Also WVO, when it gels, gels in the tank, filters, lines, etc. You may consider using a blow drier or heat gun to warm up the WVO in the lines, and plug in the block heater.
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  #4  
Old 12-16-2008, 04:35 PM
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Man, this is why I love this site!!!

I've already gone to the Diesel Giant site (WONDERFUL STUFF THERE!)

I did think about the WVO gelling, but I could get the fuel to flow when I was priming it after the filter replacement.

Just concerned that it still wouldn't fire (at all) even after spraying the starting fluid in the intake.

It does seem that I have a GP problem and the Diesel Giant site may be of great use!

The GP's and wires were replaced about two years ago, seems weird they'd go bad.

How do you check the relay to make sure it hasn't gone bad?

You guys are GREAT!
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  #5  
Old 12-16-2008, 04:48 PM
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Check to make sure you have voltage at the plugs when you turn the key to the glow position. This checks the relay.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #6  
Old 12-16-2008, 05:07 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Please use WD-40 instead of ether...ether is highly explosive and know to cause damage in these high compression engines.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2008, 05:32 PM
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Glow plugs would be my first bet. And if it's been two years, I'd change them regardless. Even if they test good now, it seems like it's always the worst possible time that they go out. On my Suburban, which runs on a one tank veg oil\diesel system, I seem to burn them out regularly. I check them in the spring and fall, and usually change them all out before winter hits. I guess you know this already, but to check them, take one out and use an ohm meter on it (you know, touching each end with the probes), but don't grab the plug with your hand. i've even gotten different readings by touching different sections of the engine end. If I have any doubt whatsoever, I scrap them and put in a new one. Like I said, I usually change them all out before winter, just to make sure. Better safe than sorry. One or two may start the vehicle when it's nice out, but not when the temps dive. One guy told me a trick to check them in the block, but I had to turn the ignition on, hold the button in (I have a manual glow plug switch since I use heavy duty gps on the burb), and it's easier to just take them out and check them out. Like somebody else said, if you've got power coming into your gp at the eyelet connector, you're relay is doing it's thing.

One thing that I see is that you're putting gas ??? in your fuel? I've been told to cut diesel with kerosene, tranny fluid and just about everything else, but I've always heard to not EVER put gas in a diesel. Anybody else heard that, or am I wrong? Seems like gas firing in your cylinders could really do a number on them. Also, I've gotten grease with water in it before. I was told beforehand to be sure and let it settle well, and leave the bottom of the jug, but I grabbed the wrong one, and had to purge it with 'Diesel 911'. I had to disconnect the fuel remove the fuel filter, dump it, refill it with the Diesel 911, and then add the rest of the bottle to the tank, then crank the engine till it finally started. (Giving the starter a break when necessary) this was on a GM 6.2 diesel, and they are pretty much self purging. Anyway, hope you get it going. I've only been a Benz owner for 2 years, so I'm pretty green compared to most of these guys. They may have a different opinion. But this is what worked in the experience I've had. I'd sure change those plugs, though!

ps-Diesel 911 is for dewatering or degelling fuel. You can get it anywhere (wally world, auto parts stores, etc.) About ten bucks a quart bottle.
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2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

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  #8  
Old 12-16-2008, 05:38 PM
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Consider polymerization, not now but for the future:
http://www.frybrid.com/svo.htm


No lite can mean no glow.
Research glow system & troubleshoot.

You may have fat that settled to the bottom of the tank. Pull supply & return off hard lines, & blow tank w/ Low pressure air. I've heard of using a rag wrapped around an air nozzel and jam it in the tank.

Move to heated garage if possible, plug in, or leave hairdryer running under hood for a few hours.

Feed supply & return lines w/ jar of D2
Loosen hard lines at injectors, crank w/ skinny pedal on the floor till diesel flows out, tighten.

Crank 15 sec, wait a few minutes- don't cook your starter.
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2008, 05:59 PM
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skinny pedal on the floor! hahaha. I like that.
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***********************************


1951 Chevy 3100

2003 Indian Chief Roadmaster

1983 GMC 1 ton Dually

1982 Chevy 1 ton Dually, service body (sold)

'90 GMC Suburban 6.2 "SS Veg-Burban"
(single tank WVO\diesel conversion) SOLD

'81 300D ~ Mama's car...my job (now my car)(but still my job) SOLD

'83 300sd ~ rescue car SOLD

2005 Ford Taurus (Mama's new car)(NOT my job!)
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2008, 06:15 PM
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You are trying to fire an old 240 off at -2 without a block heater. Many just won't do that. Mine won't. Get some heat on it, use a magnetic sticky heater, or a little space heater under the hood, or even a worklight and a blanket. Your car may be ok, just too cold to go. Install a block heater when you get a chance.

As far as the fuel goes - wiggle the clear primary filter around and see if the fuel is still liquid. This isn't the end-all, but can give you a general idea of how the fuel is.

Do you have synthetic oil? At -2 with conventional 15W40 you probably can't start without some heat.
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  #11  
Old 12-16-2008, 08:09 PM
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A lot of peeps mix RUG with UCO. it is a quick way to liquify a tank of diesel that's gelled, too.

but, like most things, too much is a bad thing. I hear of folks going up to 20% though.
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  #12  
Old 12-16-2008, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
Please use WD-40 instead of ether...ether is highly explosive and know to cause damage in these high compression engines.
Year after year every time a spray of starter fluid is suggested someone posts this kind of radical , untrue, the sky is falling ' warning' ....

A three second spray into the intake tube of starter fluid is not going to hurt the engine in any way. The proof is in the btu content of that compared to diesel fuel.

What is the purpose of trying to scare people year after year ?

The few documented stories of damage involve people putting liquid near the intake... not a propellant starter fluid introduced as the engine is turning over feet away from the actual bore.. and it can be very helpful in narrowing down what is causing the non start situation.
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  #13  
Old 12-16-2008, 09:51 PM
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*** Gasoline in the Diesel was actually a suggestion I got from a member here at ShopForum. So far it has worked brilliantly, but if this is something that's going to mess up my IP I'll stop immediately! ***

The owner's manual for this automobile states in back of book, that regular Diesel fuel may be diluted with gasoline (regular, not high-test) gasoline up to a 30% mixture to improve cold weather flow and put off the precipitation of wax with colder temperatures.

As a constant practice I doubt this is a good idea. Gasoline will not improve lubricity and it will lower the engine power output. For cold weather flow there are some specific additives that are sold at truck stops - I found out while driving across the country in the Winter in about 1974. Don't recall the stuff's name, but it was very available back then at a truck stop during cold weather. Good luck, Jim
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1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
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1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2008, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by showme View Post
One thing that I see is that you're putting gas ??? in your fuel? I've been told to cut diesel with kerosene, tranny fluid and just about everything else, but I've always heard to not EVER put gas in a diesel. Anybody else heard that, or am I wrong? Seems like gas firing in your cylinders could really do a number on them.
The Mercedes manual even suggests that you add gas in cold weather to the diesel.

I believe up to 10% gas to diesel ratio was suggested.

As for kerosene, I've run up to about 80%, but only for a tank. The manual states that the kerosene should be added to the tank first and the ratio shouldn't be higher than 50%. Probably because of the lower lubricity.

It also states never to add kerosene to number 1 diesel. (which I thought were the same, but apparently not).

New reference.... (300SDL Owners manual)

Gasoline added to diesel will destroy the trap oxidizer.


BTW: I also think the issue is more likely a glow plug issue. Plug the block heater in for a whole day to get EVERYTHING warm and replace the bad plugs. If the light does not come on, you have two or more bad plugs.
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'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2008, 11:25 AM
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Again, this has been tremendous.

I will be testing the glow plugs. If I have even one test bad I'm going to replace them all. On my 240 they are pretty easy to get to anyway!

Should I get these from the Dealer? I've been told that aftermarket GPs are junk.

The gas/fuel mixture has caused a slight drop in power, but over the summer, when I could run five gallons of WVO per gallon of gas the cost savings made the power drop worth it!

THANKS AGAIN GUYS!

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