To help you decide I would read some Threads and find out how hard it is to remove the ones on your Engine.

If your Engine uses the longer pencil Glow Plugs than the 617 they can sieze in the threaded aread (use a Never-Sieze type compound on the threads); sieze in the Electrode area due to being trapped in by carbon or be siezed in both areas.

I think that pulling the Glow Plugs, reaming the Carbon out of the holes and putting a Never-Sieze type compound on the threads is an excellent idea to prevent them from siezing in the future.
But there is a chance of breaking the head off of one of the Glow Plugs trying to remove them. Even with this I feel it is better to do this when you can plan time do deal with trouble than to wait until you have an unplaned failure of 1 or more Glow Plugs.

However, other members believe that you should not attempt to remove them until you have a bad one because anytime your remove one you risk breaking the head off the Glow Plug.

Back to my 1st sentance best to read some threads before you decide.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I put up a Thread last year as Beru sells a special grease for the Glow Plug threads. However, I have not idea where to buy it.

I have been using the regular silver Never-Seeze type compounds on Glow Plugs and of course other things that need it and have never had any problems. If have also used the copper colored ones with the same results.
No mater what you use the threads still make metal to metal contact.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Diesel911 - You can probably get the Beru glow plug grease from these folks; http://www.kingsborne.com/index.htm - They're based in San Diego.
I got my Beru glow plugs from them. They told me they can also get the glow plug grease from Beru, but I didn't get it.

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1995 E300 Diesel
2002 GMC Duramax CC LB 4X4

Can excessive carbon build up decrease the temp of the glowplug and cause harder starting in cold weather??

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84 300 Turbo / 320,000
96 E300 D / 55,000

Carbon build up will give you problems, not sure exactly how.

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83 SD

84 CD

It like,shorts out the new glowplugs.At one point I burnt one every two days.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

Here's how I understand it.

The carbon acts like an insulator and absorbs the heat or doesn't allow it to transfer properly from the glow plugs. It also absorbs the fuel and doesn't allow complete combustion.

Due to this, you get hard starts, smoke from the tail pipe and rough cold idle.

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Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Since I don't have a reamer, what else can I use? I don't want to use a drill as some people have suggested. How about one of those small round wire brushes?

jeff

I would buy or borrow a reamer.

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

I made my own reamer,by taking a burnt glowplug,and beating it flat.Then took a grinder and made it sharp,like a 2 edge sword.Make sure it not so large that it wont go in.Then beat it in gently and screw it all the way end.Remove and turn engine over to blow out crap.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

You're welcome to use mine, but I would need a deposit.

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83 SD

84 CD

I went thru 2 sets, finally reamed.

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Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !

With alt. fuels its good to ream once a year.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

I believe you have the two greases confused.

Antiseize is extremely conductive electrically. Most are graphite based with others being copper and silver formulations depending on their heat rating. Get some on a sparkplug tip and it will short it out quite nicely.

Dielectric grease is silicone based, a nonconductor. You smear it on electrical connections, and when you plug/connect them together, the grease is displaced by the metal to metal contact. The residual grease seals around the connection, preventing it from air/moisture/dirt/corrosion.

I've also used dielectric grease on orings to lubricate them where I didn't want to use an oil.

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2005 Pathfinder LE
2001 E55
1998 M3
1982 320i

Good! so I have been using the right stuff all these years. I'll stick with Anti-seize grease. Always assumed DiElectric was conductive........thought that was why it was recommended for tail light bulbs est......so they were still grounded.......may be not.

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FRED

Daily Driver: 98 E300TD 199K
Hobby Car: 69 Austin Mini
Past Diesels: 84 300SD, 312K
87 300SDL, 251K
94 Chev. K-1500 6.5Ltr.TD, 373K