I just went to my local Old Car / Hot Rod Swap Meet & quietly asked each vendor when no one else was nearby , until one said ' sure ! how many cans do you want ? ' .

Taking the time to flush the system while it's open and apart , will also increase the amount of cold air you'll eventually get .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

^wanna send me some?

I'll be doing a complete flush again. That was a decently easy job last time. It even smelled nice!

I know you're kidding as Fla. is Geezer Old Car Central , just hit up the Auto Swaps , go early and be circumspect & polite .

If the U.S.P.S. catches it in The Post , someone will go to jail .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I'm replacing my compressor with a Behr and have three seals that came with it.

The green seal fits fine, but the yellow one is slightly too short and isn't level with the green seal. The red seal is too tall.

I'm assuming that I need to use the yellow and green from what I've read, and that the inserts are not to be used.

Is this correct?

There's always the black one: http://autoacrepairs.com/sealing_washers.htm

My understanding is that the sealing washers should be about 1 mm higher than the body of the compressor. My old Harrison compressor used 2 black ones (3 mm each).

I replaced the Harrison with a CompressorWorks. It had holes of different depths (maybe 4 and 2 mm) and diameters. The yellow is 33.2 OD, 3 mm thick. Green, red and black are 27.9 mm OD; 5.5, 3.8 and 3, respectively.

Are the milled holes on the Behr the same depth, or different depth and diameter?

^They are different depth and diameter. Only the green one fits on one of the ports, and the yellow and red fit on the other. I just want to make sure I don't have a leak because of these seals.

Nevermind I figured it out. The orientation of the yellow seal made the difference and it makes a good seal against the hose on both sides.

I've got the AC system apart now, just need to flush, put it back together, get it pressure tested somewhere, and fill.

Oh did I mention that my mother called me today and said she found a half tank of R12 in my grandpas garage? She has good timing, though she did tell me she was about to just give it away

Okay so I've run in to a little mystery (well I don't know what it is anyway).

I took my blower motor out because it was making some terrible noises (turned out to be a bolt in the squirrel cage ) and I noticed two vacuum lines that were not connected to anything and another that was capped off.

The black and white run to the servo, and the capped off one connects to a Y connector in the cabin. What I'm wondering is if one of those lines connects to the Y connector and the other is a vent of some sort. Or of course it could be normal and I'm just overthinking it.

Here are pictures:



Lines leading in to Servo.



Lines disconnected in cabin.



Plugged off line in Cabin.

On the later cars the black lines are just vents, they are meant to just hang out in the dashboard and provide "clean" air for the vacuum system to "un-suck".

-J

__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

^Right I'm aware of that, but what about the white one? There is another white line that leads in to the center flap vacuum pod (I don't have working center vents) and there is a pod on the firewall that runs off the same line that also doesn't work. Both pods hold vacuum, so for some reason I'm not getting vacuum to them.

The servo does work. Here is the pod on the firewall that doesn't work but holds vacuum:



I'm slightly confused now, I hate dealing with vacuum stuff lol.

This one is the hot water bypass , it doesn't seem to open unless the default mode is used .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Your vacuum lines are correct. Those black and white ones are vents, and the black one with a cap was used to testing vacuum circuits...

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

^ interesting. I still wonder why I don't have center vents! I'm about to just zip tie it open forever...

Center vents only operate when the temperature dial is set at the outside ambient temp.

Yeah I would have designed it different. But nobody consulted me when they did it.

I really don't like the older Chrysler Imperial based units...and I'm still not a big fan of the successors to that system either.

It's a miracle, it's a miracle. The boneheaddoctor has resurrected

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13