Does it not have the dye? I'm kind of worried that you were not able to find where 2 cans leaked out. Hopefully not the evaporator.

__________________
1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

It doesn't say anywhere that the cans I bought have dye in them, so I think I will go get some tomorrow that has it in it. I have a couple things to get at the autoparts store as well.

Should I try stopleak just to try?

I pray it isn't the evaporator. That's going to be a hell of a repair for me to do.

My two experiences with AC have been very fortunate, just charge and go, so I don't know what to look for. Hopefully someone will chime it.

__________________
1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

Yeah, I was hoping that this would be the case but alas. Oh well, I'll have it looked at again but man the labor would kill me. I would totally do it myself if I had a garage.

First off, as I have also learned, do NOT set your phone down under the hood. My son slammed his Iphone in his hood {Mazda 3} and even sticking halfway in/out it was undamaged. My Samsung Eternity didn't fair quite as well when I slammed it in the hood of the white wagon. Bottom buttons are cracked but believe it or not the display was OK. Whew......
On your AC, I really wish there was a forum member close that could help you with this. Don't just keep throwing cans of freon in there. Go to Autozone and use the tool loner program and get some of their gauges. We need to see pressures.
Then consult the forum on proper hook up of them and go from there. Don't trust the little gauge you got with the kit.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

^Okay, I'll go out and get some tomorrow. Might be worth it to me just to buy. Harbor Freight has some for like $40. Not too bad.

And my phone is just completely smashed. Nice penetration right in the middle (that's what she said) that cracked the board. Won't even light up a little.

A can of green dye is cheap, you can put that in and see where the leak is. It lights up bright under a UV light.

-Jason

__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

My only question with the dye is how would I be able to see it at the evaporator?

Process of elimination

Also, keep in mind that the leak may have leaked all the oil out of the compressor too. If it were my car, once I found where the leak was I would remove the compressor, dump the remaining oil out, and add the correct amount of new oil, then fix the leak and vacuum the system down.

-J

__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

I give up, Norm is going to the mechanic. I replaced the evap temp switch today which worked, the compressor comes on, but the CCU replacement is way too involved for me.

It's all confusing, the receiver gets cold and frosty, but yet all my vents are warm. Ugh, I quit. I just want to be cold again.

So, the condensor gets warm/hot like it should, and the return line (big one that goes to the compressor) gets cold?

If so, your heater core may be staying filled with hot coolant, like in winter time. Does the Servo systems also sport the monovalve?

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Sorry, I meant condenser. But yes it gets cold, didn't check for hot but I can do that easily (I'm assuming it does as the frost goes away rather quickly). Where is the heater core? I haven't checked the engine line either, but I will do that now. I am under the impression that the servo does not have a monovalve, but hey what do I know, it might!

The servo is a rebuilt one freshly installed in January.

Let me go check those things out.

Colin,

The condensor should not get cold. That is the part in front of the radiator. The evaporator gets cold (inside the dash). The heater core is also in the dash.

The heater core is the last thing the air goes through before exiting the vents. That is why you can run the compressor, but still get warm/hot air through the vents on cool, humid days, to keep the windows from fogging up.

On cars without the servo, like mine, an open monovalve lets water into the heatercore, resulting in hot air, even though everything is set for cold air.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Okay its the thing that's behind the glovebox, with the four tubes going in to it. Looks like a little aluminium box. I know it's one of the things you replace along with your dryer when you replace the compressor, the name just escapes me right now.

What would cause the heater core to stay on or keep hot, or whatever?

There is a monovalve repair kit under the 1980 300TD category on fastlane, so I'm assuming that there is indeed a monovalve. Where is this normally located?