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  #31  
Old 06-08-2009, 11:14 PM
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Does it not have the dye? I'm kind of worried that you were not able to find where 2 cans leaked out. Hopefully not the evaporator.
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  #32  
Old 06-08-2009, 11:24 PM
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It doesn't say anywhere that the cans I bought have dye in them, so I think I will go get some tomorrow that has it in it. I have a couple things to get at the autoparts store as well.

Should I try stopleak just to try?

I pray it isn't the evaporator. That's going to be a hell of a repair for me to do.
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  #33  
Old 06-08-2009, 11:35 PM
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My two experiences with AC have been very fortunate, just charge and go, so I don't know what to look for. Hopefully someone will chime it.
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  #34  
Old 06-09-2009, 12:04 AM
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Yeah, I was hoping that this would be the case but alas. Oh well, I'll have it looked at again but man the labor would kill me. I would totally do it myself if I had a garage.
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  #35  
Old 06-09-2009, 12:14 AM
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First off, as I have also learned, do NOT set your phone down under the hood. My son slammed his Iphone in his hood {Mazda 3} and even sticking halfway in/out it was undamaged. My Samsung Eternity didn't fair quite as well when I slammed it in the hood of the white wagon. Bottom buttons are cracked but believe it or not the display was OK. Whew......
On your AC, I really wish there was a forum member close that could help you with this. Don't just keep throwing cans of freon in there. Go to Autozone and use the tool loner program and get some of their gauges. We need to see pressures.
Then consult the forum on proper hook up of them and go from there. Don't trust the little gauge you got with the kit.
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  #36  
Old 06-09-2009, 12:22 AM
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^Okay, I'll go out and get some tomorrow. Might be worth it to me just to buy. Harbor Freight has some for like $40. Not too bad.

And my phone is just completely smashed. Nice penetration right in the middle (that's what she said) that cracked the board. Won't even light up a little.
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  #37  
Old 06-09-2009, 12:33 AM
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A can of green dye is cheap, you can put that in and see where the leak is. It lights up bright under a UV light.

-Jason
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  #38  
Old 06-09-2009, 12:54 AM
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My only question with the dye is how would I be able to see it at the evaporator?
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  #39  
Old 06-09-2009, 01:14 AM
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Process of elimination

Also, keep in mind that the leak may have leaked all the oil out of the compressor too. If it were my car, once I found where the leak was I would remove the compressor, dump the remaining oil out, and add the correct amount of new oil, then fix the leak and vacuum the system down.

-J
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000).

2013 Fiat 500E. 20,000 miles, 80 miles at a time.
2012 Passat TDI. 95,000 miles. More space, power, and fuel economy than the Benz
2004 Touareg V10 TDI. 150,000 miles. One of 450.
1999 Jetta TDI. 310,000 miles.
1992 Jetta ECOdiesel. 156,000 miles. 1 of 48. Sold.
1991 Jetta ECOdiesel. 430,000 miles. 1 of 700. Sold to VeeDubTDI, totaled in front of our house
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  #40  
Old 06-11-2009, 03:39 PM
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I give up, Norm is going to the mechanic. I replaced the evap temp switch today which worked, the compressor comes on, but the CCU replacement is way too involved for me.

It's all confusing, the receiver gets cold and frosty, but yet all my vents are warm. Ugh, I quit. I just want to be cold again.
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  #41  
Old 06-11-2009, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colincoon View Post
I give up, Norm is going to the mechanic. I replaced the evap temp switch today which worked, the compressor comes on, but the CCU replacement is way too involved for me.

It's all confusing, the receiver gets cold and frosty, but yet all my vents are warm. Ugh, I quit. I just want to be cold again.


So, the condensor gets warm/hot like it should, and the return line (big one that goes to the compressor) gets cold?

If so, your heater core may be staying filled with hot coolant, like in winter time. Does the Servo systems also sport the monovalve?
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  #42  
Old 06-11-2009, 03:49 PM
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Sorry, I meant condenser. But yes it gets cold, didn't check for hot but I can do that easily (I'm assuming it does as the frost goes away rather quickly). Where is the heater core? I haven't checked the engine line either, but I will do that now. I am under the impression that the servo does not have a monovalve, but hey what do I know, it might!

The servo is a rebuilt one freshly installed in January.

Let me go check those things out.
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  #43  
Old 06-11-2009, 03:53 PM
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Colin,

The condensor should not get cold. That is the part in front of the radiator. The evaporator gets cold (inside the dash). The heater core is also in the dash.

The heater core is the last thing the air goes through before exiting the vents. That is why you can run the compressor, but still get warm/hot air through the vents on cool, humid days, to keep the windows from fogging up.

On cars without the servo, like mine, an open monovalve lets water into the heatercore, resulting in hot air, even though everything is set for cold air.
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70's SPM #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

06 VW Jetta TDI 210K miles

03 VW Golf TDI 5 speed 372K Miles

RIP--Lost in fire...82 300D 322K was My Daily Driver-On the search for a w126 now...

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 350K
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  #44  
Old 06-11-2009, 03:57 PM
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Okay its the thing that's behind the glovebox, with the four tubes going in to it. Looks like a little aluminium box. I know it's one of the things you replace along with your dryer when you replace the compressor, the name just escapes me right now.

What would cause the heater core to stay on or keep hot, or whatever?
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  #45  
Old 06-11-2009, 04:01 PM
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There is a monovalve repair kit under the 1980 300TD category on fastlane, so I'm assuming that there is indeed a monovalve. Where is this normally located?
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