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  #31  
Old 01-01-2009, 09:54 PM
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Trans. problems

Still best to see what the clutch/pressure plate condition looks like before buying parts....

Very curious about what has happened here........

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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
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  #32  
Old 01-02-2009, 02:51 PM
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Well, I got the transmission out of the car, and the input shaft does not move with the output shaft in any of the gears or neutral. Time for a diagnosis. I'm hesitant to look at the clutch, because it's not that and my pop had a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality about that. I just want this back together until schools over for summer, then I can think about taking it out again and looking at the clutch. Plus working in sub-freezing temperatures is not very fun.
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  #33  
Old 01-02-2009, 08:24 PM
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Trans. problems

Can you turn the input shaft by hand in neutral or the other gears ....?
What is the transmission model# on the trans...?
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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)
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  #34  
Old 01-03-2009, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellit View Post
PB Blaster is a penetrating lube (Wal Mart or auto parts stores)...It stinks but does a good job on stuck bolts if you can get it in the area....Also helps to tap the stuck bolts firmly with hammer after soaking the bolts....this sets up micro-vibrations that help the fluid get in the sealed corrosion between the parts....That sounds whackey but it works on stubborn parts.....spray & tap....spray & tap.....primitive ultrasonics.....this pearl of wisdom learned from a 90 year old machinist/mechanic....

Get the trans off before worrrying about the internals....If it is bad it has to come off anyway......
This is probably useless information as he's got the transmission off but in my experience you may not need large whacks. Just tapping with a small hammer seems to help. Whether it is actually doing anything or just passing time while the oil/PB Blaster penetrates I've never tested . But spray and tap, spray and tap definitely doesn't hurt and does seem to help.

Another old trick is to hold the wrench or socket firmly in place with one hand and hit/"bump" the handle with the other. Hit it with force but not a lot. If you hurt your hand you are hitting too hard. I've never explored physics behind this but it does work better then just straining your muscles on a seized bolt. It apparently applies more force in that instant than just steady pressure. And is easier on the arms.
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  #35  
Old 01-03-2009, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Horr View Post
This is probably useless information as he's got the transmission off but in my experience you may not need large whacks. Just tapping with a small hammer seems to help. Whether it is actually doing anything or just passing time while the oil/PB Blaster penetrates I've never tested . But spray and tap, spray and tap definitely doesn't hurt and does seem to help.

Another old trick is to hold the wrench or socket firmly in place with one hand and hit/"bump" the handle with the other. Hit it with force but not a lot. If you hurt your hand you are hitting too hard. I've never explored physics behind this but it does work better then just straining your muscles on a seized bolt. It apparently applies more force in that instant than just steady pressure. And is easier on the arms.
the reason impact guns have made it big - sharp blows instead of a drill type torque - jz
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  #36  
Old 01-03-2009, 12:20 PM
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Well I used WD-40 and tapping with a hammer along with the breaker bar and I finally got it loose. It's out now and yes, I can turn the input shaft in all the gears and neutral. I found these numbers on the right side of the housing: MERCEDES BENZ R 123 261 06 01 and under that: 123 260 12 01 716. 210 01 07 9704
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  #37  
Old 01-03-2009, 12:30 PM
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Trans. problems

....When turning the input shaft by hand....
......Does the output shaft turn...in any or all of the gears...?
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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Last edited by yellit; 01-03-2009 at 03:08 PM. Reason: more info
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  #38  
Old 01-03-2009, 03:33 PM
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When I turn the input shaft, the output mainshaft turns, but the flange does not. The flange turns in relation to the output shaft, they are no longer connected. It seems like the splines on either the output mainshaft or the flange are stripped. Does anyone know how to take off the flange? Does anyone know what a slotted box wrench is? Does anyone have an exploded view of this transmission?
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  #39  
Old 01-03-2009, 03:42 PM
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Transmissions

I must be missing something here.....The tri-yoke or flange is splined to the output shaft....This is the part the flex disk is bolted to....
Maybe some more pics to describe the problem...pictures of the end of flange with flex disk removed....
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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Last edited by yellit; 01-03-2009 at 03:44 PM. Reason: more info
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  #40  
Old 01-03-2009, 04:07 PM
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I don't want to take off the flex disc, those hex head bolts are a pain in the arse to deal with. I think I just have to take out that special nut and I'm afraid I need a special tool.
Attached Thumbnails
Four-speed manual Transmission Rebuild-s4010001.jpg  
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  #41  
Old 01-03-2009, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
When I turn the input shaft, the output mainshaft turns, but the flange does not. The flange turns in relation to the output shaft, they are no longer connected. It seems like the splines on either the output mainshaft or the flange are stripped. Does anyone know how to take off the flange? Does anyone know what a slotted box wrench is? Does anyone have an exploded view of this transmission?
Its "socket" with notches that fits into the flange. I made one from a short section of 1&1/4 pipe, not sure about the size but it wasn't "skookem' enough and didn't do the job. Make one from a 1/2 inch socket of the proper size. Maybe you can borrow one.
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  #42  
Old 01-03-2009, 06:29 PM
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Trans. problems

Yep...
I made one from a 30MM Chrome-Moly Alloy-Steel 1/2" drive Six point Socket...
Used a 4" disk grinder to cut the reliefs for the 4 teeth....
The teeth are about 7.5mm wide and about 8mm tall....

I am still a bit mystified about this failure....are you saying that the flex disk and Tri-flange yoke the flex disk is bolted to (is not) turning....

But the output shaft the Tri-flange is bolted to with this special 4 slot nut (is) turning when you turn the input shaft on the clutch side of the trans...?

How can you see the output shaft if the flange is still attached to it...?
The oil seal of the output housing on the trans rides on the flange that is splined to the (buried) output shaft....not trying to be too picky and detailed here but am still confused with what you are seeing....
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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)
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  #43  
Old 01-03-2009, 07:16 PM
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Well what I believe to be the output shaft is turn and yes, what you explained is right, the flange does not move with the input shaft, but what I'm pointing to in the picture does.
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  #44  
Old 01-03-2009, 07:21 PM
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Aha I think I know whats going on! Your saying that the flange that bolts to the output shaft is loose and that it's splines are stripped.

I actually had the beginnings of that when I first replaced my flex disc. I found the flange was loose and there was lash in the spline. I got myself another flange from an auto box and red lock tightened it on.

I have a homemade socked for the silly nut if you need one.
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  #45  
Old 01-03-2009, 07:24 PM
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Yes that's what I think happened, I just hope it's the splines on the flange, not the shaft, but either way I need to take it off to see and I do need that socket.

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