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  #1  
Old 03-10-2010, 05:22 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,277
slow windows

Hello,

my 82 has busted rear regulators. They will go all the way down if I help them up and down a few times in spots where they bind... but that sure indicates to me that something is wrong.

My fronts, however, are just very slow. They work fine, they are just really slow. COntacts on the switch are clean, havent pulled the door skin to check. THat said, the car was a dry weather car, never really seen bad weather, and parts dont show corrosion anyplace else.

Is a slow window a sign of a bad regulator, motor or what on these older cars?

Thanks!

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #2  
Old 03-10-2010, 06:25 PM
Phil's Avatar
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Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 1,064
It's possible that over the years the motor bearings are getting dry and need a little lube.
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1983 300SD
200000miles
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  #3  
Old 03-10-2010, 07:20 PM
Biodiesel300TD's Avatar
|3iodiesel300T|)
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 4,845
I've found that even on the manual windows they just needs some lube when they get slow, or hard to roll up(with the manual windows). Take the door panel off, clean the tracks and lube all the moving parts. Make sure all the pats are tightened up properly. And it will make quite a difference.
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Andrew
'04 Jetta TDI Wagon
'82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold
'77 300D ~ Sold
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  #4  
Old 03-10-2010, 09:12 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,131
This usually happens on coupe window regulators because the arms are so long.

The 2 arms have bent and are hitting each other, usually you can remove the regulator from the car and straighten them out. It will work for a while, but sooner or later you'll need another one.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #5  
Old 03-10-2010, 09:16 PM
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Location: New Jersey
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They slow down because they are rubbing? I can tell that the rears hit, but the fronts work smooth, just slow.

Is there an improved design for the fronts? The rears are going to cost me $1000 for new ones that are improved...
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #6  
Old 03-10-2010, 09:19 PM
79Mercy's Avatar
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 4,131
No the fronts have not been improved they still have the same old part #, they slow down because of being warped and poor lubrication.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #7  
Old 03-10-2010, 09:59 PM
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greasy fingered tinkerer
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tacoma, WA
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I don't know how much similarity there is between the 123 and 126 regulators, but I've found that I got some improvement in my 126 coupe's window regulators after I cleaned all the old dirt contaminated grease off of it and re-lubed it liberally.

I made sure to get the old grease off of the sector gear, the vertical guide rails, and the slide jaws and the rails that they ride in.
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Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...
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  #8  
Old 03-10-2010, 10:28 PM
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Location: Florida
Posts: 4,131
W126 front coupe window regulators are exactly the same as W123 front regulators.
__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #9  
Old 03-11-2010, 01:06 AM
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Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,277
coupe or sedan? Is there a difference?
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2010, 11:33 AM
hey_allen's Avatar
greasy fingered tinkerer
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 728
I know that the 126 coupe and sedan regulators are different from each other.
The coupe front windows are much longer than the sedan ones, and the rears much shorter, aside from the tilting action as the reach the bottom of their travel.

How they compare to the 123 windows, I'm not sure.
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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...
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  #11  
Old 03-12-2010, 01:27 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,277
Well, that is the same on a 123, the coupe windows are much longer. Wasnt sure if the regulators stay the same though...
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2010, 02:03 PM
TnBob's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Shelbyville, Tn
Posts: 1,907
And what do our experienced MB DIY'ers recommend for regreasing the tracks ??
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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
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  #13  
Old 03-12-2010, 03:44 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,277
The grease Ive heard is best from automotive engineers is dow molykote 33. I got a big tube for not much from mcmaster. Great stuff.
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #14  
Old 03-13-2010, 12:56 AM
hey_allen's Avatar
greasy fingered tinkerer
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 728
My not-so-expert choice was a tub of white lithium grease that I had access to when I was working on this project.

If it doesn't hold up too well, I'll re-lube it later with another grease when I tear into it to find out why it's acting up in the future.
__________________
-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...
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  #15  
Old 03-13-2010, 01:32 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 175
is this what could be causing my DS rear window from going down easily? it will stop a little ways down but will work if i put it up a tiny bit and go down the rest of the way. any suggestions on how to bend the metal front on the rear windows too? my passenger rear window has a dent in the metal which stops it from going down more then 4 inches.

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1984 W123 300CD silver/blue *230k*
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