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#1
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slow windows
Hello,
my 82 has busted rear regulators. They will go all the way down if I help them up and down a few times in spots where they bind... but that sure indicates to me that something is wrong. My fronts, however, are just very slow. They work fine, they are just really slow. COntacts on the switch are clean, havent pulled the door skin to check. THat said, the car was a dry weather car, never really seen bad weather, and parts dont show corrosion anyplace else. Is a slow window a sign of a bad regulator, motor or what on these older cars? Thanks!
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#2
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It's possible that over the years the motor bearings are getting dry and need a little lube.
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1983 300SD 200000miles |
#3
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I've found that even on the manual windows they just needs some lube when they get slow, or hard to roll up(with the manual windows). Take the door panel off, clean the tracks and lube all the moving parts. Make sure all the pats are tightened up properly. And it will make quite a difference.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#4
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This usually happens on coupe window regulators because the arms are so long.
The 2 arms have bent and are hitting each other, usually you can remove the regulator from the car and straighten them out. It will work for a while, but sooner or later you'll need another one.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#5
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They slow down because they are rubbing? I can tell that the rears hit, but the fronts work smooth, just slow.
Is there an improved design for the fronts? The rears are going to cost me $1000 for new ones that are improved...
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#6
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No the fronts have not been improved they still have the same old part #, they slow down because of being warped and poor lubrication.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#7
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I don't know how much similarity there is between the 123 and 126 regulators, but I've found that I got some improvement in my 126 coupe's window regulators after I cleaned all the old dirt contaminated grease off of it and re-lubed it liberally.
I made sure to get the old grease off of the sector gear, the vertical guide rails, and the slide jaws and the rails that they ride in.
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
#8
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W126 front coupe window regulators are exactly the same as W123 front regulators.
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
#9
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coupe or sedan? Is there a difference?
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#10
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I know that the 126 coupe and sedan regulators are different from each other.
The coupe front windows are much longer than the sedan ones, and the rears much shorter, aside from the tilting action as the reach the bottom of their travel. How they compare to the 123 windows, I'm not sure.
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
#11
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Well, that is the same on a 123, the coupe windows are much longer. Wasnt sure if the regulators stay the same though...
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#12
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And what do our experienced MB DIY'ers recommend for regreasing the tracks ??
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." |
#13
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The grease Ive heard is best from automotive engineers is dow molykote 33. I got a big tube for not much from mcmaster. Great stuff.
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Current Diesels: 1981 240D (73K) 1982 300CD (169k) 1985 190D (169k) 1991 350SD (113k) 1991 350SD (206k) 1991 300D (228k) 1993 300SD (291k) 1993 300D 2.5T (338k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k) 1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k) Past Diesels: 1983 300D (228K) 1985 300D (233K) |
#14
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My not-so-expert choice was a tub of white lithium grease that I had access to when I was working on this project.
If it doesn't hold up too well, I'll re-lube it later with another grease when I tear into it to find out why it's acting up in the future.
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-Josh Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time... |
#15
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is this what could be causing my DS rear window from going down easily? it will stop a little ways down but will work if i put it up a tiny bit and go down the rest of the way. any suggestions on how to bend the metal front on the rear windows too? my passenger rear window has a dent in the metal which stops it from going down more then 4 inches.
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